Dusk settles over the Presqu'île and the terraces along the Saône begin to fill. Later, people drift uphill towards Croix-Rousse or down into the narrow streets of Vieux Lyon, where lit windows mark out bars and small theatres.
Lyon's nightlife suits people who like to move between places rather than settle in one. The city is known for its cuisine and gastronomy, and it has a large student population, so evenings tend to mix eating, drinking and live performance. It rewards those willing to walk between districts and to book ahead for the major institutions, where big names can sell out months in advance.
Where to go out in Lyon
1. Place des Terreaux and the climb to Croix-Rousse
A good starting point for an evening is Place des Terreaux, then upwards towards Croix-Rousse. In the streets that climb the hill there are many places to drink, so the area suits a night that begins centrally and gradually moves uphill.
Note that the metro and bus stop serving this area is given as Hôtel de Ville - Louis Pradel.
2. Vieux Lyon
The pedestrian streets of Vieux Lyon, all around St-Jean Cathedral, hold numerous bars and are the most concentrated option for a night out on foot. This is also where English and Irish pubs cluster, so it suits visitors who want English-speaking staff and a pub-based evening.
The nearest metro stop is Vieux Lyon.
3. English and Irish pubs
Foreign students often gather in English or Irish pubs, which are particularly concentrated in the Vieux Lyon area. Expect quiz nights, live music sessions and pub food rather than a club atmosphere.
Named examples in the sources include Kelly's Pub on quai Romain Rolland, Paddy's Corner in the Croix-Rousse area, Johnny Walsh's on rue St Georges, Wallace on rue Octavio Mey and The Smoking Dog on rue Lainerie. The sources describe quiz nights, live music and terraces at various of these; check current details before you go, as the sources do not confirm that all of them are still trading.
4. Live music venues
Lyon has venues for jazz, rock, electronic music and classical repertoire. The Auditorium hosts the Lyon National Orchestra along with some jazz and world music, the Opera house hosts opera and dance with occasional jazz in its smaller Amphithéâtre room, and the Transbordeur in Villeurbanne is a medium-sized hall for rock and popular music.
Ninkasi, described in the sources as a modern-day institution, has two live music spaces, Kafé for free shows and Kao for rock and electronic music, and also brews beer with bars across the Presqu'île and in Villeurbanne. Hot Club de Lyon is a jazz club in an old cellar. Early booking is often necessary for the major institutions.
5. Theatre and café-théâtre
Lyon has theatres ranging from tiny café-théâtres to large municipal institutions, covering comedy, classical drama and avant-garde productions. A café-théâtre is a way to combine a show, usually comedy, with drinks and food.
The sources name the Théâtre des Célestins, the Théâtre de la Croix-Rousse, the TNP in Villeurbanne and the Théâtre Tête d'Or, along with smaller venues such as Les Ateliers, Espace 44, Théâtre des Clochards Célestes, Complexe du Rire and Espace Gerson. Guignol puppet theatre is also performed for children and adults at the Théâtre le Guignol de Lyon and the outdoor Véritable Guignol du Vieux Lyon et du Parc in the Parc de la Tête d'Or.
6. Cinemas
For a quieter evening, several cinemas show thematic series and foreign films in original version. The Institut Lumière occupies the former Lumière factory and screens series of cinema masterpieces.
Independent options named in the sources include Comoedia and the two CNP cinemas, with the Bellecour branch of CNP holding the most avant-garde programme. The Pathé and UGC chains also operate several theatres in the city.
7. Boats along the Rhône
At quai Albert Augagneur, along the Rhône, several former riverboats (péniches) serve as nightclubs or bars, forming another centre of Lyon nightlife. This suits a late, music-led evening by the water.
The sources name Sirius on quai Augagneur, which hosts live events almost every day of the week and, on weekends, has two dancefloors with all kinds of music and no dress code.
How a night out unfolds
The sources do not set out a detailed timetable for eating and going out. What they do indicate is that venues run late: several pubs are listed as open until 02:00 or 03:00, and the jazz club Hot Club de Lyon begins its sets at 21:30 on Tuesday to Thursday and 22:00 on Friday and Saturday. For the major institutions, early booking is often necessary and big names can sell out months in advance. There is no place in Lyon where you can buy reduced-price tickets for same-day shows.
Festivals and events worth timing a trip around
- Fête des lumières — begins every 8 December and lasts four days.
Frequently asked questions
Where should I start an evening out in Lyon?
Place des Terreaux is a good starting point, from which you can head upwards towards Croix-Rousse through the streets that climb the hill. Alternatively, the pedestrian streets of Vieux Lyon around St-Jean Cathedral hold numerous bars.
Do I need to book ahead for shows?
Early booking is often necessary for the major institutions, including the Auditorium, the opera house and the Célestins and Croix-Rousse theatres. Big names sell out months in advance.
Is there a way to get cheap same-day tickets?
No. Unlike London or New York, there is no place in Lyon where you can buy reduced-price tickets for same-day shows.
Where can I find live music late in the evening?
Options named in the sources include the Hot Club de Lyon, a jazz club in an old cellar with live jazz five nights a week, Ninkasi's Kafé and Kao spaces, the Transbordeur for rock and popular music, and the riverboats along quai Albert Augagneur.
Check listings and opening times before you set out, then plan an evening that moves between a district or two rather than a single address.