Getting Around Valparaíso
Valparaíso is a city of hills and a coastal strip, and how you move around depends a lot on whether you are staying down in El Plan — the flat coastal area — or up in the cerros, the hillside communities. A mix of light rail, buses, shared taxis, funiculars, and your own two feet will cover almost everything a visitor wants to do.
Metro and Light Rail
The backbone of public transport in the area is Metro Valparaíso, also known as Merval. It is a light-rail system that runs along the coast, starting at Valparaíso's port and heading into Viña del Mar, then continuing through Quilpué and Villa Alemana to reach Limache. It is new, clean, and fast, and it provides quick access to major places of interest. It runs from 06:00 to 23:30.
Fares depend on the time of day and the distance travelled, and are only slightly more than taking public buses. Note that single tickets are not sold: you must use a value card, loaded with a minimum amount. If you plan to use the metro more than once, it is worth getting a card early.
Buses
Local buses — the city micros — are run by Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso. Exact routes and fares can be found under "Empresas" on the operator's website. Local routes within the city are the cheapest option, and routes running between El Plan and the hills cost a little more. Buses also ply frequently between Viña del Mar and Valparaíso, a trip of about 15 minutes each way.
For longer journeys, buses from a wide variety of destinations within Chile have scheduled service to Valparaíso, as well as service to the Argentine city of Mendoza. The bus terminal is near the National Congress building. Santiago is served many times every hour, though the trip can take much longer if there is congestion. La Serena and Mendoza are also served, though the road to Mendoza may be closed in winter due to bad weather.
Taxis and Colectivos
The most distinctive form of transport here is the colectivo: a taxi painted black with a yellow roof that runs a fixed route. Colectivos are a very common way to travel between and within Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, and other surrounding areas. They cost more than the bus or metro, and the price depends on the distance travelled, following a system of zones.
Regular taxis that do custom rides also exist, but they are less common and more expensive. They often congregate in the area around the Plaza Aníbal Pinto, which makes that plaza a useful place to find one.
Funiculars (Ascensores)
The ascensores — funiculars — connect El Plan, the coastal strip, with the cerros, the hillside communities. They are for the most part old and creaky, but generally reliable, and they are a unique mode of transport in Valparaíso that offers gorgeous views of the cityscape, the port, and the Pacific Ocean. The fare may sometimes differ between going up and going down, but is modest either way.
Two practical warnings: there were historically a bigger number operating in the past, so check before you rely on a particular one — some close for repairs or simply don't operate any more. One particularly interesting example is the Polanco, located just off Avenida Argentina at Simpson. Rather than a funicular, it is the only vertical elevator whose entrance is at street level: you walk through a long tunnel that takes you to two distinct levels, the highest of which is a tower and an excellent place to get a great view of the city.
Walking
Valparaíso rewards walking, but the terrain is the thing to plan around. The city is famous for its labyrinth of cobbled alleys and colorful buildings in the hillside historic districts, and much of the pleasure of a visit comes from wandering them on foot. The catch is the gradient: the flat El Plan and the steep cerros are distinct worlds, and moving between them is where the ascensores, buses, and colectivos earn their keep. Comfortable shoes and a willingness to climb will serve you well.
Getting There from the Airport
Valparaíso does not have its own airport. The closest airport with commercial service is Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport (SCL) in Santiago, about an hour and a half away, which offers extensive domestic and international service.
To reach Valparaíso from Santiago's airport, the usual route is by bus:
- Catch a bus heading to Pajaritos from outside the airport terminal.
- This drops you at the north side of Pajaritos, a bus and subway station on the outskirts of Santiago.
- Cross to the south side of the subway station to reach the bus platform.
- From there, buses leave frequently for Valparaíso and other destinations. You can also take the subway into downtown Santiago from this point.
It is generally not necessary to have a bus ticket before arriving at Pajaritos. The airport–Pajaritos leg is operated by the Centropuerto bus company.
By Car
Driving in Valparaíso itself can be a bit difficult, but the area's highway system is generally of good quality. Be aware that there are often tolls on the highways.
By Boat
Some cruise ships dock in Valparaíso, mostly as part of a long South American itinerary. It is also possible to arrange a freighter cruise from Mexico, which takes about two weeks and makes several stops along the way.