Stand at the top of Ascensor Artillería and the whole city arranges itself below you: container cranes along the port, the curve of the bay, and the painted houses of the cerros tumbling down toward the water. Valparaíso rewards travellers who are willing to walk steep staircases, ride century-old funiculars, and let the hillside streets set the pace.
The city suits people who like their sightseeing on foot and don't mind a climb between stops. It is less about single monuments and more about the texture of the cerros, the markets, the viewpoints and the funiculars that connect the flat port area to the heights.
This guide covers the specific sights and experiences worth your time, followed by a one-day plan that strings the best of them together and answers to the questions travellers ask most.
Top things to do in Valparaíso
1. Ride the funiculars
Going to Valparaíso and not riding the ascensores is like going to Venice and not taking a gondola, except that the ascensores cost as little as 100 pesos. They are also of practical use, helping local people reach the higher parts of town without the long, steep walk.
Many are undergoing repair or do not run at all, but even then they make for interesting pictures. Plan your day around the ones that are working and treat the rest as viewpoints and photo stops.
2. Ascensor El Peral
This funicular takes you up to a viewing platform right in front of Palacio Baburizza. It is the most convenient way to combine a ride with a museum visit, since the palace is waiting at the top.
Ride up, take in the view, then go straight into the museum before walking on through the cerros.
3. Baburizza Palace
This is a fine arts museum with mostly Chilean artists, plus a section of artists of European origin. The palace itself is a mansion formerly owned by a Croatian businessman, Pascual Baburizza, and is a sight of itself. It was turned into a museum in 1971.
It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00–18:00, and the 4000 pesos entry includes an audioguide in English, French or Portuguese. Pair it with Ascensor El Peral, which delivers you to the viewing platform in front of the building.
4. La Sebastiana
One of three homes of poet Pablo Neruda, La Sebastiana sits on Cerro Bellavista at Ricardo de Ferrari 692. Like La Chascona in Santiago, the house offers an included audioguide tour of Neruda's Valparaíso home.
It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00–18:00, and entry is 9500 pesos. It is only some 50 m downhill from Avenida Alemana, so the two combine naturally.
5. Avenida Alemana
For a scenic walk, head for Avenida Alemana, a long curvy road along the cerros some 150 m above downtown. It passes a number of viewpoints offering vistas of the city, the port area and the coastline as far as the dunes of Concón.
The stretch heading west from La Sebastiana is the most beautiful part. Once you have had enough, microbuses run all along the road and can take you back down to town.
6. Museo Naval y Maritimo
This naval and maritime museum at Paseo 21 de Mayo 45 is dedicated to military naval exploits and battles, with a large focus on the Chilean victory against Peru and Bolivia in the War of the Pacific. It sits at the top of Ascensor Artillería.
It is open daily 10:00–18:00 and entry is 4000 pesos. Combine it with the Paseo 21 de Mayo for the views over the port.
7. Paseo 21 de Mayo
This walkway on Cerro Artillería is the promenade at the top of Ascensor Artillería, and it is the natural pairing with the naval museum. Come up by funicular, see the museum, then take in the outlook over the port and bay.
It works best as a morning or early afternoon stop, before the light softens and you head back down into the city.
8. Plaza Sotomayor
This is the central square near the port and the heart of the old seaport city. It is the obvious starting point for a walk through the flat part of town before you begin climbing.
Use it as an anchor: from here you can head into the banking area on Prat Street and on toward the cerros.
9. National History Museum
Two floors of exhibits focus on the natural history and geography of Chile, particularly a cross-section following the latitude of Juan Fernández and Valparaíso through to the Andes. Biogeography and geology dominate, and the museum does a good job showcasing Chile's diversity on land and in the Pacific Ocean.
It is at Condell 1546, open Tuesday to Friday 10:00–17:30 and Saturday 11:00–16:00, and entry is free. Ascensor Espíritu Santo is hidden away in an alley behind the museum, so pair the two.
10. Ascensor Espíritu Santo
This is a particularly steep staircase lift, hidden away in an alley behind the National History Museum. It is easy to miss, which is part of what makes finding it worthwhile.
Visit the museum first, then look for the alley behind it to ride up into the cerros.
11. Ascensor Concepción
This funicular is worth riding for the views. It serves the Cerro Concepción area, one of the historic hillside districts.
Build it into a walk through Cerros Alegre and Concepción rather than treating it as a standalone stop.
12. Cerros Alegre and Concepción
These two hills are the historic hillside districts, with cobbled alleys and colourful buildings. They are the part of Valparaíso most visitors picture, and they are best explored slowly on foot.
Combine them with Ascensor Concepción for the climb, and with Plaza Echaurren and Serrano Street lower down.
13. Ascensor Cordillera
This funicular has a beautiful staircase and has lately been reconstructed. It serves Cerro Cordillera.
Pair it with the Cerro Cordillera area and with Plaza Echaurren and Serrano Street, which sit nearby.
14. Mercado El Cardonal
This is a bustling and colourful vegetable market at Uruguay 125. Locals come here to buy fresh produce for much less than you would pay in a supermarket, and there are food stalls selling empanadas, fried fish or meat skewers.
It is open daily 07:30–17:30 and sits one block diagonally from the main bus station, making it an easy first or last stop.
15. Ascensor Florida
This one does not run anymore, but the hike up and beyond reveals a beautiful neighbourhood with La Sebastiana and the Winebox Hostel. Treat it as a walk rather than a ride.
If you are heading to La Sebastiana anyway, this is a rewarding way to approach it on foot.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at Plaza Sotomayor, the central square near the port, then walk into the banking area on Prat Street. Ride Ascensor Artillería up to Paseo 21 de Mayo and visit the Museo Naval y Maritimo at the top.
Afternoon. Come down and make your way to Ascensor El Peral, which takes you up to the viewing platform in front of Baburizza Palace. Visit the palace and its fine arts collection, then walk through Cerros Alegre and Concepción, riding Ascensor Concepción for the views.
Evening. Head for Avenida Alemana for the walk along the cerros, stopping at the viewpoints over the city, port and coastline. Finish at La Sebastiana, Neruda's hillside home, then take a microbus back down to town.
Frequently asked questions
Do the funiculars still run?
Many are undergoing repair or do not run at all, but even the ones that are out of service allow for interesting pictures. Ascensor Florida, for example, no longer runs, though the hike up and beyond reveals a beautiful neighbourhood.
How much do the funiculars and museums cost?
The ascensores cost as little as 100 pesos. Museo Naval y Maritimo and Baburizza Palace each charge 4000 pesos, La Sebastiana charges 9500 pesos, and the National History Museum is free.
When is the best time to visit Valparaíso?
Cruise ships visit during the South American summer. If you want the annual carnival, it falls in the last week of the year, when the city's population triples, so get ready in time.
Is it worth taking a guided tour?
The German Pirate offers a tour by a German man who has lived in Valparaíso for years, speaks Spanish, English and German, and offers discounts for groups. You are unlikely to find a more immersive tour of the city.
Start by picking the funiculars and hills you want to cover, then build your days around them.