Valparaiso travel guide

Valparaiso, Chile

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Valparaiso

Introduction

Valparaíso is a major city, commune, seaport, and naval base in the Valparaíso Region of Chile. Its name comes from Valparaíso de Arriba, a place in Castile-La Mancha, Spain.

Before you go

Valparaíso is a port town whose long maritime history earned it UNESCO World Heritage status, and that legacy still shapes the old town you'll be exploring. Sitting in an earthquake zone, it was reshaped by the disastrous 1906 quake and by more recent tremors, so the hilly streets carry both the port's heritage and a complex story of Chilean national identity and politics. Expect a chaotic, hilly old town of colourful houses and funicular railways, with an active nightlife and a constantly changing lineup of artistic events. It's worth setting the old town against the more modern Viña del Mar just to the north, and the hinterland that leads over towards Santiago.

On safety, bear in mind that while Chile is relatively safe, Valparaíso is among its more dangerous locales, as harbour cities often are. The main risk is pickpockets: don't hang your purse or bag on the back of your chair when seated, and avoid displaying expensive jewellery in the street. Violent crime is uncommon, but take the usual precautions, and treat the port area, known as "Puerto", as dangerous even during the day. Be alert to thieves who deliberately give you a flat tire and then offer to "help" — either by placing something sharp under your tire or puncturing it while you're stopped in traffic, then distracting you to rob you or your car. A car will drive a short distance on a flat, so head somewhere safe to change it, such as a paid parking garage with an attendant and security guard; rental agencies in Santiago know about this tactic.

Getting there

Getting to Valparaíso means flying into Santiago first, since the city has no airport of its own. Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport (SCL) lies about an hour and a half away and offers extensive domestic and international service. From the airport terminal, catch a bus heading to Pajaritos; it drops you on the north side of the Pajaritos bus and subway station on the outskirts of Santiago. Cross to the south side for the bus platform, where frequent services depart for Valparaíso and other destinations. You can also take the subway into downtown Santiago from there, and buying a bus ticket in advance is generally unnecessary. Long-distance buses reach Valparaíso from a wide range of Chilean destinations as well as Mendoza in Argentina, arriving at a terminal near the National Congress building. From Santiago the trip takes roughly an hour and a half, with departures many times an hour, though congestion can stretch it out considerably; La Serena is about seven hours away and Mendoza about twelve, with the road sometimes closed in winter by bad weather. Local buses also run between Viña del Mar and Valparaíso in about fifteen minutes each way. Within the region, the Metro Valparaíso (Merval) links Valparaíso with Limache and surrounding communities including Viña del Mar, and it is new, clean and fast, though you must use a value card rather than a single ticket. Driving is possible, and the area's highways are generally of good quality, but the city itself can be difficult to navigate by car and tolls are common. Some cruise ships also dock here, mostly on long South American itineraries, and a freighter cruise from Mexico takes about two weeks with several stops along the way.

Getting around

Getting around Valparaíso means choosing between the flat coastal strip of El Plan and the steep hillside communities of the cerros, and the city's mix of transport reflects that split. Metro Valparaíso, also called Merval, is the backbone: a light-rail line running along the coast from the port into Viña del Mar and on through Quilpué and Villa Alemana to Limache, giving quick access to major sights. Single tickets are not sold, so you must use a value card loaded with a minimum amount; fares vary by time of day and distance and run only slightly higher than the buses. Local buses, the micros, are run by Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso, with routes and fares listed under "Empresas" on the operator's website — cheapest within the city, a little more for routes between El Plan and the hills. For hillside travel, the ascensores — funiculars — link El Plan with the cerros. They are mostly old and creaky but generally reliable, and offer gorgeous views of the cityscape, the port and the Pacific; check before relying on one, since some close for repairs or no longer operate. The Polanco, just off Avenida Argentina at Simpson, is the only vertical elevator with a street-level entrance, reached through a long tunnel and rising to a tower with a fine view. Colectivos — taxis painted black with yellow roofs — run fixed routes between and within Valparaíso, Viña del Mar and surrounding areas, costing more than bus or metro under a zone system; regular taxis doing custom rides are less common, pricier, and often found around Plaza Aníbal Pinto. Much of the pleasure here comes from wandering the cobbled alleys and colourful hillside districts on foot, so bring comfortable shoes and be ready to climb.

Where to stay

For budget stays, the hostels cluster on Cerro Cárcel, where Cumming is the street to know. Hostel Casa Verde Limón has a living room that makes it easy to meet other travellers and staff who are generous with advice. Angel Hostal, a few doors along the same street, offers dorms and doubles, a good breakfast, free internet and even tickets to the city's bohemian nightlife.

Mid-range options spread across the hills. On Cerro Bellavista, Apartments Valparaíso Experience sits halfway down a staircase alley a short walk from Plaza Victoria, with furnished two-bedroom units, central heating, double glazing and deck terraces looking out over the ocean and coastline. The Mirador Bed and Breakfast occupies the Playa Ancha sector, with rooms, small apartments, a shared kitchen and a balcony facing the city and port. On Cerro Artillería, The Yellow House is a restored late-1800s home with seven rooms, galleries and living areas that take in the port and, on a clear day, the Andes. For quiet, Residencia en El Cerro on Cerro Concepción sits on a traffic-free alley with gardens, original 1880s decor and simple breakfast provisions.

Food & drink

< p>For a traditional Valparaíso meal, try the chorrillana, a heaping mound of french fries topped with steak, onion and eggs; you can eat it at the traditional restaurant J Cruz. Fresh seafood is readily available in many restaurants around the city, especially near the muelle (wharf) areas, and is considered a must for any seafood lover. Bakeries sit on nearly every block and turn out delicious breads that can be had warm and right out of the oven at almost any time of day — best enjoyed smothered with palta, the Chilean and Argentinian word for avocado. Empanadas, flaky pastries filled with meat or cheese, are another widely available snack to keep you settled as you walk the streets.

< p>For cheap and midrange lunches, head to the second floor of the Mercado Cardonal at the corner of Ave Brasil and Uruguay, where a few excellent restaurants serve lunch. Budget options include Mahuel Hot in Bellavista, Sabronómico on Condell, La Pica de Vitorio on Independencia, Restaurante Navoli on Carrera, the vegetarian Natur In on Av. Colón, Delirios de Valparaíso on Av. Ecuador, and El Valenciano on Avenida Colón, known for delicious chicken, good sandwiches and good value meals. Mid-range choices include La Conquistada Restaurante in Cerro Concepción, Cocina Puerto and Restaurant O'Higgins on Almirante Montt and Almte. Barroso respectively, and Nazca Restaurante Peruano on Esmeralda. For a splurge, consider Cafe Turri by the ascensor Concepción for great views and good food, Restaurante Bote Salvavidas at the port, or Il Paparazzo Ristorante & Winebar and Restaurant La Concepción, both on Papudo.

< p>When it comes to drinking, Chileans call going out "salir de carrete", and on weekends it starts no earlier than midnight, though somewhat earlier during the week. Drinking alcohol in the streets is not allowed, and the minimum age is 18, though enforcement is somewhat lax; if you are under 18, you may not be allowed into some pubs. Chile is a major wine-producing country, and bottles of fairly tasty wines can be had for slightly more than US prices. Nightlife spots include La Torre, which offers inexpensive drinks and draws university students, plus Balmaceda, Barcelona, La Piedra Feliz (a more expensive, touristy club with salsa dancing, mostly for older crowds), Club El Cielo, Club Stockolmo, Club El Huevo (one of the largest dance clubs, with five floors, diverse music and a rooftop bar), Bar La Playa, and Mascara, which caters to an artsy and gay/lesbian crowd. Many clubs and bars are also found in Viña del Mar, and since public transportation and taxis run throughout the night, you can stay in one city and go out in the other. For coffee, Puro Cafe on Calle Edwards is one of the few places in Chile to have real espresso rather than instant coffee, with beautiful and comfortable furniture.

What to see and do

Start at Plaza Sotomayor, the central square near the port and the heart of the old seaport city, then ride the ascensores — the funiculars that lift you up the cerros. They are of practical use to locals heading to the higher parts of town, and even those that no longer run or are under repair make for interesting pictures. Ascensor Cordillera has a beautiful staircase and has lately been reconstructed; Ascensor Concepción offers great views; Ascensor Espíritu Santo is a particularly steep staircase lift tucked in an alley behind the Natural History Museum; and Ascensor El Peral takes you up to a viewing platform right in front of Palacio Baburizza. Ascensor Florida no longer runs, but the hike up and beyond reveals a beautiful neighbourhood with La Sebastiana. For a scenic walk, head for Avenida Alemana, a long curvy road along the cerros some 150 m above downtown, passing viewpoints with vistas of the city, the port area and the coastline as far as the dunes of Concón; the stretch heading west is the most beautiful part, and microbuses along the road can take you back down.

Among the sights, La Sebastiana on Cerro Bellavista is one of Pablo Neruda's three homes and includes an audioguide tour. The Baburizza Palace on Paseo Yugoslavo is a fine arts museum with mostly Chilean artists alongside a section of European artists, and the mansion itself — formerly owned by Croatian businessman Pascual Baburizza — is a sight of itself. The Museo Naval y Marítimo at the top of Ascensor Artillería focuses on naval exploits and battles, especially the Chilean victory against Peru and Bolivia in the War of the Pacific. The National History Museum spreads two floors of exhibits on the natural history and geography of Chile, particularly the cross-section of Juan Fernández, Valparaíso and the Andes. The National Congress of Chile sits next to Plaza O'Higgins and is heavily guarded — it is not possible to visit. Elsewhere, Mercado El Cardonal is a bustling, colourful vegetable market where locals buy fresh produce, with food stalls selling empanadas, fried fish or meat skewers. You can also wander the cerros Alegre and Concepción, Plaza Echaurren and Serrano Street, Cerro Cordillera, the banking area on Prat Street, Paseo 21 de Mayo on Cerro Artillería, La Matriz Church and its surroundings, and the Ex Cárcel, a former jail turned cultural centre and concert venue. If you are in town during the last week of the year, the annual carnival centres on a different country each year, with invited performers and artists representing their culture in theatre, music and the performance arts; most activities are free and outdoors, culminating in a New Year firework display. The German Pirate runs an immersive tour led by a German man who has lived in Valparaíso for years, speaks Spanish, English and German, and offers discounts for groups.

When to go

Valparaíso has a mild warm-summer Mediterranean climate, with a dry summer and coastal fog that can appear year-round. Summer is essentially dry, so rain is unlikely to interrupt your visit. This is the warmest stretch of the year, though temperatures stay mild rather than hot, and fog from the Humboldt Current can still roll in and grey out the views.

Winter is the coolest and wettest part of the year. Rainfall can occasionally be extremely heavy when a powerful frontal system crosses central Chile, though how often that happens varies greatly from year to year. Strong winds can make it feel colder than the thermometer suggests, with wind chill below freezing. Snow is rare and only touches the highest parts of the city.

Three days in Valparaiso

Day one: Start in Valparaíso itself, a UNESCO World Heritage city on Chile's Pacific coast. Expect steep hills and painted houses, with the historic quarter split between the lower town and the upper neighbourhoods. Ride the ascensores, the old lifts that carry you up to the cerros, and wander the streets of Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción. Look out over the bay and the port below, then find a seafood lunch of Chilean specialities. In the evening, watch the sun set over the water from one of the hillside viewpoints.

Day two: Take the short trip along the coast to Viña del Mar, the resort town next door, for beaches and gardens. Return to Valparaíso in the afternoon and use the Metro Valparaíso, known locally as the Merval, to get around the edge of the bay. Ride it to the end of the line at Limache if you want a longer journey inland, or stay closer and explore more of the port area. Back in the city, eat dinner in one of the hillside restaurants and try a local Chilean dish.

Day three: Head inland to Santiago, the capital, reachable from Valparaíso by road. From Santiago you can continue to other destinations in the Valparaíso Region or beyond, such as La Serena to the north or across the Andes to Mendoza in Argentina. If you are flying out, Santiago's Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport (SCL) is the main gateway, with buses from Pajaritos connecting the capital to the coast. Spend your last hours in Valparaíso revisiting a favourite hill or the waterfront before you leave.

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