It is just past midnight on a Saturday and the streets of Valparaíso are only now beginning to fill. Groups move between bars on the flat grid of the plan and up the steep alleys of the cerros, and the sound of conversation and music carries between the painted walls.
The city's nightlife suits people who like to move between places rather than settle in one room: students, artists, and visitors drawn by the hillside historic districts. Much of it clusters in the centre and on the hills, and the clubs and bars of nearby Viña del Mar are within reach of the same night out.
Where to go out in Valparaíso
1. The plan and the historic quarter
The flat commercial centre below the hills holds many of the bars and clubs, and the historic quarter around it is where the evening tends to start. This suits a night that begins with a drink and a walk before moving on to dancing.
Public transport and taxis run through the night, so you can stay in one part of the city and go out in another without difficulty.
2. Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción
These two hills, settled historically by British immigrants, are the most established area for an evening out, with bars and clubs among the old houses and cobbled lanes. They suit a slower start to the night and a walk between venues.
Going up and down is part of the experience here: the ascensores, the city's incline lifts, are of practical use for reaching the higher parts of town, though many are under repair or no longer run.
3. The student bars
La Torre is named among the city's nightlife for inexpensive drinks and a university-student crowd. This is the kind of night that starts late and stays cheap.
4. Salsa and older crowds
La Piedra Feliz is described as a more expensive and touristy club that often features salsa dancing, mostly for older crowds. It suits a night built around dancing rather than bar-hopping.
5. Large dance clubs
Club El Huevo is named as one of the largest dance clubs in Valparaíso, with five floors, diverse music and a rooftop bar. This is the choice for a full night of dancing.
6. Artsy and gay/lesbian venues
Mascara is named among the city's venues and caters to an artsy and gay/lesbian crowd. Other named options include Balmaceda, Barcelona, Club El Cielo, Club Stockolmo and Bar La Playa.
7. Viña del Mar
Many clubs and bars are also found in Viña del Mar, and public transport and taxis continue to run throughout the night. It is entirely feasible to have accommodations in one city while going out for the night in the other.
How a night out unfolds
On weekends, the time to go out for a drink — what Chileans call "salir de carrete" — starts no earlier than midnight, though somewhat earlier during the week. Pubs and clubs close at 05:00 on weekends and 04:00 on weekdays. Drinking alcohol in the streets is not allowed, and 18 years is the minimum age for drinking alcohol, though enforcement of these rules is somewhat lax; if you are under 18, you may not be allowed entry into some pubs.
Festivals and events worth timing a trip around
- Carnival — held during the last week of the year, with each edition centred on a different country and performers invited to represent its culture in theatre, music and the performing arts; most activities are free and held outdoors, and the celebration culminates in a New Year firework display. The city's population triples on those dates, so plan ahead.
Frequently asked questions
When do people go out in Valparaíso?
On weekends, going out for a drink starts no earlier than midnight, though somewhat earlier during the week.
How late do pubs and clubs stay open?
They close at 05:00 on weekends and 04:00 on weekdays.
What is the minimum age for drinking alcohol?
18 years is the minimum age, though enforcement is somewhat lax, and if you are under 18 you may not be allowed entry into some pubs.
Can you go out in Viña del Mar while staying in Valparaíso?
Yes. Many clubs and bars are found in Viña del Mar, and public transport and taxis continue to run throughout the night, making it feasible to have accommodations in one city while going out in the other.
Decide where you want to start, check how you will get up the hills and back down, and plan your evening around the fact that the night here begins late.