Stand at the Jaffa Gate end of the Ramparts Walk and the Old City opens below you: rooftops, domes and the gold of the Dome of the Rock, all ringed by walls rebuilt under Suleiman the Magnificent in 1538. That circuit of stone is what most visitors picture, and it is only the beginning of what the city holds.
Jerusalem suits travellers who are comfortable with dense, layered places, where a single quarter can hold a synagogue, a market and a Roman street within a few minutes' walk. It rewards slow movement and early starts, and it asks for patience at the sites of greatest religious significance.
This guide covers the sights and experiences in the Old City, East Jerusalem and West Jerusalem, plus a one-day plan that strings the strongest of them together.
Top things to do in Jerusalem
1. Temple Mount/Noble Sanctuary
The Temple Mount/Noble Sanctuary is the holiest site in Judaism and the third holiest in Islam, crowned by the gold-and-blue Dome of the Rock, which stands on the site of the ancient Jewish Temples. It also includes the Al-Aqsa Mosque, from where the Muslim prophet Muhammad is believed to have ascended to heaven.
Note that some sites here, particularly Islamic ones, may bar members of other religions from entry or from praying on the grounds. Pair a visit with the Western Wall below, since the two are physically inseparable.
2. Western Wall
The Western Wall is a retaining wall of the Temple Mount, built 2000 years ago. It is the closest place Jews can go to the site of the Temple, so for hundreds of years it has been a destination for prayer and for placing notes with prayers in the cracks between the stones.
Combine it with the Western Wall Tunnel, whose guides explain the first two temples and the later construction of the Dome of the Rock.
3. Church of the Holy Sepulchre
At the end of the Via Dolorosa in the Christian quarter of the Old City, this is the holiest site in the world for Christians. The first church on the site was built by Queen Helena, mother of the emperor Constantine.
It is Jerusalem's number one site for Christian pilgrims and is consequently very crowded. Expect to queue for an hour or more to enter the tiny tomb chamber, so plan it as a single, unhurried stop rather than something to squeeze between others.
4. City of David
On the south-east corner of the Old City, the City of David is an archaeological site from the time of King David. Hezekiah's Tunnel, built by the Biblical King Hezekiah, is accessed from here and you can walk through it.
The City of David water tunnels tour lasts around two hours and culminates in a 25-minute walk through the water channel cut to bring fresh water into Jerusalem from a nearby spring. Sandals and a torch are required, and the water is ankle deep for most of the tour. It is located down the road from the Dung Gate, near the Western Wall, so follow the signs.
5. Mount of Olives
The Mount of Olives holds numerous monuments, including the Kidron Valley Monuments, Maria's Tomb, the Ascension Chapel, Domini Flevit Church, the Church of All Nations, the Tombs of the Prophets, the Jewish Cemetery, the Pater Noster Church and the Muscoviya. It also has probably the best view of the Old City from the outside.
Christians believe this was where Jesus ascended to Heaven and where he will return to Earth during the End Times. Come for the view over the walls rather than as a single monument stop.
6. Ramparts Walk
The Ramparts Walk lets you view the city from atop the Old City walls. There are two routes: the northern route starts from inside the Old City by the Jaffa Gate and circles the Christian quarter and the Muslim quarter, while the southern route starts from outside the Jaffa Gate and circles the Armenian quarter and the Jewish quarter.
Choose your route by which quarters you want to look down into, and start from the Jaffa Gate either way.
7. Mahane Yehuda
Mahane Yehuda is the main outdoor market of West Jerusalem: large, loud and labyrinthine, with a huge number of stalls. Fresh produce, pastries, spices and salads abound, and it is the place for a bargain and an insight into traditional Israeli culture.
Stalls are generally open Sunday to Thursday 08:00-20:00 and Friday 08:00-15:00, and closed on Shabbat. When the shops close in the evening, the night life opens up, as the Shuk has become a destination for bars, restaurants and music at night.
8. Western Wall Tunnels
The Western Wall Tunnels tour is well worth your time. The guides are well versed in the history of the wall, and their explanation of the first two temples and the subsequent construction of the Dome of the Rock creates a picture of the conflict between the relevant cultures.
Reservations are recommended, though individual walk-ins can sometimes be squeezed in.
9. Tower of David (Citadel)
The Tower of David is the famous tower at Jaffa Gate, now a museum of Jerusalem history. The museum uses the chambers and rooms of the citadel as exhibition rooms, each dedicated to a specific period and ordered chronologically.
At night the museum presents a show of lights and sounds screened on the citadel, telling the story of the history of Jerusalem. This must be pre-ordered.
10. Israel Museum
The Israel Museum is the largest and most famous museum in Israel, particularly noted for its historic treasures, including the Dead Sea Scrolls and the Aleppo Codex.
In summer the museum runs special programmes for children, including recycling workshops, so it works as a family stop as well as a scholarly one.
11. Yad Vashem
Yad Vashem is Israel's Holocaust museum. Give it the time and attention it asks for rather than treating it as one stop among many.
12. Mount Zion
Mount Zion holds several monuments, including Hagia Maria Sion Abbey (the Dormition Church), Schindler's Tomb, the Chamber of the Holocaust (Martef HaShoah), David's Tomb and the Room of the Last Supper.
Because the sites sit close together, it is easy to see several in one visit.
13. The Garden Tomb
The Garden Tomb on Nablus Road in East Jerusalem marks what many believe is the location of Calvary and the tomb of Jesus. The tomb is set in a large garden that offers a break from the bustle of East Jerusalem.
It is only open in the afternoons, so plan it for that part of the day. It sits just outside Damascus Gate, near the Rockefeller Archaeological Museum and the Tomb of the Kings.
14. Jewish Quarter
The Jewish Quarter was completely rebuilt in 1969 after it came under Israeli control in the 1967 Arab-Israeli War, and still holds ancient masterpieces such as Hezekiah's wall, the Burnt House, the Cardo and the Western Wall. Inside the quarter are the Hurba Synagogue, the largest synagogue in the Old City, and the Herodian Quarter museum.
At the Western Wall plaza you will find the Western Wall Tunnel and the Chain of Generations center, and the nearby archaeological park Davidson Centre (the Ophel) is also interesting.
15. Damascus Gate
Damascus Gate is the most elaborate gate of the Old City, with the vegetable market bordering it. It is also near Jaafar, a renowned Jerusalem sweets store.
Just outside the gate you can visit the Rockefeller Archaeological Museum as well as the Garden Tomb and the Tomb of the Kings, making it a natural starting point for that cluster. The Rockefeller Museum is a branch of the Israel Museum, dedicated to archaeological finds in the Holy Land, and is closed on Tuesday and Friday.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Jaffa Gate and take the Ramparts Walk for an overview of the quarters before you descend into them. Continue to the Temple Mount/Noble Sanctuary and then the Western Wall, and if you have reserved ahead, the Western Wall Tunnels.
Afternoon: Walk the Via Dolorosa to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, then head south-east to the City of David for the water tunnels tour, entering from the direction of the Dung Gate. If time allows, finish the afternoon at the Garden Tomb, which is only open in the afternoons.
Evening: Go to Mahane Yehuda, where the stalls give way to bars, restaurants and music once the shops close. If you have pre-ordered tickets, end at the Tower of David for the night show of lights and sounds on the citadel.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Mahane Yehuda?
The market stalls are generally open Sunday to Thursday 08:00-20:00 and Friday 08:00-15:00, and closed on Shabbat. In the evening the area shifts to bars, restaurants and music.
Do I need to book anything in advance?
The night show at the Tower of David must be pre-ordered. Reservations are also recommended for the Western Wall Tunnels, though walk-ins can sometimes be squeezed in.
What should I bring for the City of David water tunnels?
Sandals and a torch are required. The water is ankle deep for most of the roughly two-hour tour, which ends with a 25-minute walk through the water channel.
Can I visit every religious site regardless of my own faith?
Not always. Some sites, particularly Islamic ones, may bar members of other religions from entry or from praying on the grounds.
Decide which quarters matter most to you, check the Shabbat and afternoon-only timings against your dates, and start building your days around them.