Evening falls on the Old City and the city sits down to iftar
You hear it before you see it: the cannon shot from the slopes of the Mount of Olives that marks the end of the fasting day, rolling across the Kidron Valley and up through the stone lanes of the Old City. Then the lanes fill. Families carrying trays of food to relatives, men in white heading for the Haram al-Sharif, the smell of fried pastries and grilled meat drifting out of the market. Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, when Muslims fast from dawn to sunset as one of the five pillars of Islam — and in Jerusalem, the month turns the city's evenings into its own season.
In 2027, Ramadan 1448 AH is astronomically projected to begin on Monday, 8 February, pending the sighting of the crescent moon and formal announcement. If no moon is sighted, the fast begins the night of 8 February. The month runs 29 or 30 days depending on the end-of-month crescent, with Eid al-Fitr projected for Tuesday, 9 March, again contingent on the Shawwal crescent and possibly shifting by a day. Plan your visit around the evenings — that is when the city is most alive.
Walk the Old City markets after the cannon
The Old City's market streets — the covered lanes running from Damascus Gate through the Muslim Quarter — are at their best in the hour before sunset and the hours after. Vendors lay out dates, sweets and bread for iftar; the crowds are thick and the pace is slow. Go early to watch the stalls set up, then step aside as the cannon sounds and the lanes empty for a few minutes while people break their fast. After the evening prayer, they fill again and stay busy late into the night.
- Damascus Gate and the surrounding lanes: the main approach for worshippers heading to the Haram al-Sharif, and the busiest stretch of market in the city during Ramadan.
- The Haram al-Sharif (Temple Mount): the focal point of the month for Muslim worshippers, with evening prayers drawing large crowds. Visitors should plan around prayer times and entry rules, which vary.
- Al-Aqsa Mosque: the site of the largest congregations of the month; expect heavy security and long queues at the gates.
Eat what the city eats at iftar
The food of Ramadan in Jerusalem is the food of the city's Palestinian kitchens, and it is best found in the Old City and East Jerusalem neighbourhoods. Look for the sweets shops in the lanes near Damascus Gate and in the markets of East Jerusalem, where trays of pastries come out of the fryers in the late afternoon. Dates and water are the first thing eaten at iftar, followed by soup and grilled meats. Many restaurants in East Jerusalem serve set iftar meals; the larger hotels in West Jerusalem also lay on iftar buffets during the month. The pre-dawn meal, suhoor, keeps many cafes and restaurants open until the early hours — the Old City and East Jerusalem are where to find it.
Stay out late for the night life of the month
Ramadan nights in Jerusalem run late. After the evening prayer, the Old City's lanes stay busy with shoppers and families, and the cafes and restaurants of East Jerusalem fill up. The last ten nights of the month are the most intense, with worshippers packing the Haram al-Sharif for night prayers. If you are in the city for the final week, expect the Old City to be at its busiest and plan your movements accordingly. The month ends with Eid al-Fitr, projected for 9 March, when the city celebrates the breaking of the fast with family meals and visits.
Know the rhythm before you go
Ramadan shifts earlier each year on the Gregorian calendar, and in 2027 it falls in February — cool days and cold nights, so bring a warm layer for the evening markets. The exact start and end dates depend on the crescent moon sighting and formal announcement, so check locally before you book. Fasting hours run from dawn to sunset; non-fasting visitors should be mindful of eating and drinking in public during the day, particularly in the Old City and East Jerusalem. The month lasts 29 or 30 days, so build some flexibility into your plans around the start and Eid.
Start with the evenings: the cannon, the markets, the trays of food carried through the lanes. Book your stay near the Old City, keep your first night free for the iftar rush, and let the month's rhythm set your schedule.