Getting Around Aswan

Getting Around Aswan

Aswan is a compact city, and much of what a visitor wants to see can be reached on foot. The city sits on the east bank of the Nile just north of the Aswan Dam, at the first cataract, and the modern city has expanded to include the formerly separate community on Elephantine Island. Because the river and its islands break the city into distinct pieces, getting around is really a matter of two skills: walking the east bank, and crossing the Nile to reach the islands and the West Bank.

On Foot

Aswan is compact enough to negotiate primarily on foot. The main railway station sits at the north end of the city centre, a few hundred metres inland from the river, and the blocks between the station and the river hold cafés and basic hotels, so the core of the city is easily walkable. Walking is also the simplest way to move between the market, the riverfront, and the streets of the centre.

Some sights, however, are beyond a comfortable walk, and for those you will need wheels or a boat:

• Philae, the High Dam, and the Unfinished Obelisk — reachable by taxi, tuk-tuk, or horse-drawn carriage.
• Elephantine Island and the West Bank — you must cross the river by motor boat or felucca.

Crossing the Nile: Ferries and Feluccas

For the sights on the river islands or on the West Bank, you must cross the river by motor boat or felucca. This is a normal part of daily movement in Aswan rather than a special excursion, and it is worth knowing roughly what things should cost before you step aboard.

• Public ferry to Elephantine Island — a small fixed fare for foreigners, with a lower fare for Egyptians.
• Ferry to the West Bank — the same arrangement: a higher fare for foreigners, a lower one for locals.
• Felucca trips — priced by negotiation, so agree the price before you set off.

Operators try to overcharge tourists, so pay attention to the price and settle it in advance. If you are heading toward Philae, it is also possible to get close to the Philae docks with a public pick-up truck going in the direction of the university; from the terminus it is a short walk onward, and tuk-tuks are usually waiting to take you the rest of the way. Working out the pick-up trucks may require some knowledge of Arabic.

Trains

Aswan is the southern terminus of the Egyptian railway network, which makes the train the natural way in and out of the city along the Nile. The line follows the river north to Luxor, then on to Cairo and Alexandria. The train is an excellent way to travel between Aswan and Luxor: the journey is too short to fly, and buses are bumpy and not altogether safe. The ride from Cairo is much slower than a flight but comfortable and safe.

There is no metro or tram network in Aswan; the railway is the only rail service, and it is oriented toward intercity travel rather than moving around within the city.

From Cairo, the trains come in a few broad types:

• Daytime expresses — air-conditioned first- and second-class coaches with comfortable aircraft-style seats, a relaxing way to watch the Nile valley go by. Soft drinks and snacks are served and there may be a dining car, but it is best to buy food and drinks beforehand.
• Overnight expresses — identical to the daytime trains and priced the same; they are not sleepers.
• Deluxe sleepers — run by a private company, Watania, with modern air-conditioned sleeping cars, a choice of one- and two-berth cabins, and a club/lounge car. An evening meal and breakfast are included in the fare. One sleeper runs nightly year-round in each direction, with extra sleepers at busy times; those extra trains may start from Giza rather than Cairo Ramses.
• Local trains — non-air-conditioned trains that stop at most stations, running day and night. They are not much slower and are incredibly cheap.

The express trains are run by Egyptian National Railways (ENR). Check timetables and prices and book directly with them, and be sure to book at least 24 hours in advance or the system may not accept your booking. ENR also runs the ordinary trains, but these are not bookable and do not appear on timetables — buy your ticket at the station. Deluxe sleepers should be booked online with Watania.

Express tickets can also be bought at the station, though in the past Cairo Ramses station has often refused to sell daytime tickets to tourists, claiming they are only allowed on the overnight train. That claim is not correct, and there are no similar problems buying such tickets at Giza, buying northbound from Aswan to Cairo, or simply boarding the daytime train without a ticket.

In Aswan itself, the main railway station sits at the north end of the city centre, a few hundred metres inland from the river. Leave plenty of time if you need to buy tickets, as service at the counters is slow. The station also has tourist information inside, and microbuses depart from just outside it — turn right as you exit the terminal. A second station, High Dam railway station, is the southern terminus of the network; mostly local trains call there. It is useful for connecting to the ferry to Sudan, but not much else.

Buses and Other Public Transport

Public buses serve the city, but they do not go to the airport. Microbuses depart from outside the Aswan railway station, which makes the station a handy interchange if you arrive by train and want to continue by minibus.

Long-distance buses are the other public-transport option. Services run between Aswan and Hurghada, operated by Upper Egypt Bus Co. Tickets are sold on the bus, but ask the price at the ticket office first: the ticket seller on the bus will often raise the price slightly and pocket the excess if you are a foreigner.

Taxis, Tuk-Tuks, and Ride-Hailing

Taxis are the straightforward choice for sights outside the centre, including Philae, the High Dam, and the Unfinished Obelisk, and they can also be used for the airport run. Tuk-tuks and horse-drawn carriages cover the same ground and are useful for shorter hops, including the stretch beyond the pick-up truck terminus toward the Philae docks.

Ride-hailing apps work in Aswan, but with a local twist:

• Uber — works, but you will not pay the price quoted. The driver will negotiate a higher price by message before he arrives.
• inDrive — works well, and is cash only.

Whichever you use, treat the app price as a starting point rather than a final one, and carry cash.

Getting from the Airport into the City

Aswan International Airport (ASW) lies south-southwest of the city, on the west bank and just south of the High Dam. Two things shape how you leave it:

• Public buses do not go to the airport.
• Security on the approach road to the terminal is tight.

For those reasons, it is probably reasonable to take a taxi, and you must agree a price in advance. The fare from the airport to the train station is stated inside the airport, so look for the posted figure before you negotiate. Airlines serving the airport include EgyptAir, with services from Abu Simbel, Cairo, and Luxor, among other carriers and charter services.

Arriving by Boat

Boats are a genuine transport option into and out of Aswan, not just a way to cross the river. Cruise ships ply between Aswan and Luxor most days, but these are luxury cruise tours taking five or more days for a splurgy price — they are not ferries, so shop around online for dates and prices.

Separately, a passenger ferry operated by Nile River Valley Transport Corporation sails across Lake Nasser to Wadi Halfa in Sudan once a week. Southbound it leaves Aswan at noon on Sundays and arrives at midday on Monday; northbound it leaves Wadi Halfa on Monday afternoons and reaches Aswan at midday on Tuesday. First-class tickets get you a berth in a shared cabin, while second class gets you a seat on the deck. You will need your Sudan visa sorted in advance. From Wadi Halfa, buses and a very occasional train run south to Khartoum.

Practical Summary

• Walk the east-bank centre, including the area between the railway station and the river.
• Take a ferry or felucca to Elephantine Island and the West Bank; agree felucca prices beforehand.
• Use taxis, tuk-tuks, or horse-drawn carriages for Philae, the High Dam, and the Unfinished Obelisk.
• Rely on the train for Luxor, Cairo, and Alexandria; book express trains with ENR well in advance, sleepers with Watania.
• Expect microbuses outside the railway station, and long-distance buses sold on board — check the price at the ticket office first.
• Use ride-hailing with cash, and expect the final price to be negotiated rather than fixed.
• Take a taxi from the airport with a price agreed in advance, using the fare posted inside the terminal as your reference.