Aswan
Introduction
Aswan is a city in Upper Egypt and the capital of the Aswan Governorate. Its recorded history spans more than 2,600 years, placing it among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and that depth of settlement shapes what you find there today. Because the source material for this section is limited, this introduction covers only the city's location and its long history.Before you go
Aswan sits at the First Cataract, the first of six rapids and shallows that made the Nile unnavigable further upstream, and it was the heart of the Kingdom of Upper Egypt before Narmer unified the two kingdoms. The dams built across the cataract changed the city and the region around it, and the High Dam's completion in 1971 created Lake Nasser, which stretches all the way into Sudan. Expect hot desert conditions: almost no rain falls here, the water in the lake and river has travelled from over 1000 miles south, summers are very hot and winters pleasantly warm.
The city is well developed for tourism but has not grown to the extent of Luxor, so it feels more relaxed. It is generally a very safe city, though you should watch for blatant pickpocketing in the souq, where thieves approach carrying scarves, shirts or papyrus in one hand to sell while reaching into your pockets with the other; locals know this happens but do not count on them to intervene. Women who are not comfortable with leering men should avoid travelling alone, though the men are all bluster. Most horse carriage drivers will not commit on the price when you arrive at your destination, and you are expected to give more.
Getting there
Aswan is the southern terminus of Egypt's railway network, so the train is a natural way in. The line follows the Nile north to Luxor, then on to Cairo and Alexandria; the Aswan–Luxor leg is short enough that flying makes little sense, and the train is a more comfortable and safer option than the bumpy buses. From Cairo you can choose between daytime expresses with air-conditioned, aircraft-style seating and views over the Nile valley, identical overnight expresses, private deluxe sleepers run by Watania with proper sleeping cabins and a lounge car, or the very cheap non-air-conditioned local trains that stop almost everywhere. Book express tickets with Egyptian National Railways well in advance, or buy them at the station — though Cairo Ramses has been known to refuse daytime tickets to tourists, a problem you won't hit at Giza or travelling north from Aswan. Aswan railway station sits at the north end of the city centre, a few hundred metres inland from the river, with tourist information inside, microbuses outside, and cafés and basic hotels in the blocks towards the water. A second station, High Dam, is the network's true southern terminus and mainly serves local trains and connections to the Sudan ferry.
By air, Aswan International Airport lies south-west of the city on the west bank, just south of the high dam. Public buses don't serve it and security on the approach road is tight, so a taxi is the practical choice — agree on the fare before you set off. EgyptAir connects Aswan with Cairo, Luxor and Abu Simbel, and other carriers and charter services also fly in from Cairo and London Gatwick. Long-distance buses run from Hurghada, a long haul operated by Upper Egypt Bus Co.; tickets are sold on board, but check the price at the ticket office first, as sellers have been known to inflate it for foreigners. Cruise ships also ply between Aswan and Luxor, though these are multi-day luxury cruises rather than ferries. For Sudan, a weekly passenger ferry crosses Lake Nasser to Wadi Halfa, with first class getting you a berth in a shared cabin and second class a seat on deck; sort your Sudan visa in advance.
Getting around
Aswan is compact enough to cover primarily on foot. The main railway station sits at the north end of the city centre, a few hundred metres inland from the river, and the blocks between it and the riverfront hold cafés and basic hotels, so the core is easily walkable. Walking is also the simplest way to move between the market, the riverfront and the streets of the centre. For sights beyond a comfortable walk — Philae, the High Dam and the Unfinished Obelisk — take a taxi, tuk-tuk or horse-drawn carriage.
Because the Nile and its islands break the city into distinct pieces, getting around also means crossing the river. For Elephantine Island and the West Bank you must cross by motor boat or felucca; this is ordinary daily movement rather than a special excursion. Public ferries to Elephantine Island and to the West Bank charge a higher fare for foreigners and a lower one for locals. Felucca trips are priced by negotiation, so agree the price before you set off — operators try to overcharge tourists. You can also get close to the Philae docks with a public pick-up truck heading in the direction of the university, then continue on foot or by tuk-tuk, though working this out may require some Arabic. Ride-hailing apps operate here with a local twist: Uber works, but you won't pay the price quoted, as the driver negotiates a higher price by message before arriving; inDrive works well and is cash only. Microbuses depart from just outside the railway station, turning right as you exit the terminal, and long-distance buses sell tickets on board — ask the price at the ticket office first, since the seller on the bus may raise it for foreigners. Public buses serve the city but do not go to the airport, so take a taxi there with a price agreed in advance, using the fare posted inside the terminal as your reference.
Where to stay
Most of Aswan's budget places cluster around the railway station and Sharia Abtal al Tahrir, which puts you within walking distance of the Tombs of the Nobles ferry and the market. The Keylany Hotel is widely regarded as one of the best budget options, with clean, comfortable rooms and spotless bathrooms, while the Nuba Nile Hotel offers similar value near the train station. The Tiba Hotel is a straightforward budget choice close to both the station and the ferry, and the Hathor Hotel on the Corniche an Nil has a swimming pool among its rooms. For Nile views on a budget, the Memnon Hotel and the Philae Hotel sit on the Corniche, though the Philae's rooms are somewhat rundown and hot water can be unreliable. Several hotels along Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir and its side streets — the Queen Noorhan, Yassin and Nubian Oasis — are clean and pleasant, but be prepared for staff who push tours aggressively. Note that the Happi Hotel has drawn numerous reports of a cash scam by its manager, so pay attention to how your booking is handled. Over on Elephantine Island, the Baba Dool Guesthouse is a characterful Nubian option with good facilities, plentiful breakfast and views over the Nile and Kitchener's Island.
If you want to stay on the west bank, Bet el Kerem near the Tombs of the Nobles is the only hotel accommodation there, a small eight-room place with a quiet atmosphere, hospitable staff, a roof-terrace restaurant and sweeping views over the Nile, the desert and the Nubian villages; bike rental is available. Mid-range choices include the Basma Hotel on El Fanadek Street and the Pyramisa Isis El Corniche, which has a nice garden and pool, simple clean rooms and free WiFi in the lobby only. At the top end, the Mövenpick Resort occupies the northern end of Elephantine Island, and the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract on Abtal El Tahrir Street overlooks the Nile opposite Elephantine, offering a taste of the city's aristocratic past.
Food & drink
For affordable eating in the city centre, Al-Masry Restaurant on Sharia Al Matar draws a local crowd with kafta, kebabs, pigeon and chicken, all served with bread, salad and tahini. Aswan Moon sits on pontoons along the Corniche an Nil, offering cheerful service and a menu that runs from mezze to pizza to kebabs, plus a Daoud Basha of meatballs in tomato sauce; its crab soup is worth seeking out. The fish joints near the city market are excellent, with fresh fish you can watch being cooked. Panorama, also on the Corniche, serves simple Egyptian stews in clay pots with salad, mezze and rice, and breakfast all day. In South Aswan, Nubian House sits off Sharia al Tahrir past the Nubian Museum, with sunset views over the first cataract, sheesha and tea. For mid-range meals, try Chef Khalil on Sharia al Souq near the train station, a small fresh fish restaurant priced by weight, or El-Madinah Restaurant on the same street close to the Cleopatra Hotel. On Elephantine Island you'll find King Jamaica restaurant and cafe, and Nubian dreams restaurant and cafe in Qism Aswan. For a splurge, the Old Cataract Hotel welcomes non-guests for high tea or to dine in its restaurants and bar. Aswan is noticeably more relaxed about alcohol than Cairo or Luxor, and many restaurants pour Stella and Saqqara, both Egyptian lagers comparable to European beers. Locals take particular pride in their fresh sugar cane juice, so make a point of trying it.What to see and do
Aswan rewards slow wandering as much as it does sightseeing. On the east bank, the Nubian Museum traces the history of the Nubian region from prehistoric times to the flooding that followed the building of the Aswan Dam, and its architecture is a draw in itself. Further south, the Unfinished Obelisk lies carved directly out of the bedrock, abandoned after a crack developed; it is a site for dedicated Egyptophiles rather than casual visitors. Near the southern end of the Corniche you will find Archangel Michael's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral, the crumbling graves of the Fatimid Cemetery, and the Ferial Gardens, a relaxing park that makes a pleasant end to a stroll along the Kornish Al Nile. The river and its islands hold much of the city's character. Elephantine Island is home to the Nubian villages of Siou and Koti, the Nilometers, temples, and the Aswan Museum, which houses finds from excavations on the island. El Nabatat Island, better known as the Aswan Botanical Gardens, is filled with birds, palms and hundreds of plant species, and is reached by motor boat, felucca or rowboat. Further north, Seheyl Island has friendly Nubian villages, beaded jewellery and the Famine Stela. On the west bank, the Tombs of the Nobles are cut into the northern hills, their walls painted with scenes of everyday life and hieroglyphic biographies; the climb to Kubbet el-Hawa above them is rewarded with wide views of the Nile. The Monastery of St Simeon, a fortified Christian stronghold until its destruction in the 12th century, can be reached by camel or on foot from the tombs. Upriver, the Philae Temple on Agilkia Island was moved from its original island after the flooding of Lake Nasser, and its Sound and Light show is among the least cheesy of such productions.When to go
Aswan is one of the hottest, driest and sunniest cities on Earth, so the timing of your visit matters more than almost anywhere else. Summer here is very prolonged and extremely hot, with blazing sunshine, dry desert air and humidity at its lowest. This is the fiercest time to visit, and you should plan your days around the heat rather than fight it.
Winter is brief and pleasantly mild by day, though nights can turn cool at times. Humidity reaches its yearly maximum, yet even then it stays low. This is the most comfortable stretch for sightseeing, and the season to aim for if you want to spend long hours outdoors among the city's monuments and along the Nile.
Three days in Aswan
Day one: Base yourself in Aswan and get your bearings along the Nile. Because the city sits at the First Cataract, the river here is broken by granite and the views across to the desert are part of the reason Aswan feels different from Cairo or Alexandria. Walking is the easiest way to settle in, and the corniche gives you a long, unhurried stretch of the river to follow. If you have come from Cairo, you can arrive by Watania or by Egyptian National Railways from Cairo Ramses, or by air into Aswan International Airport; from Giza or Luxor the train is a straightforward option. Book ahead on the Egyptian National Railways if you are travelling in a busy period.
Day two: Give the day to the water and to the monuments south of the city. The High Dam and Lake Nasser are the obvious starting point, and the scale of the lake, stretching toward Sudan, is worth the trip on its own. From there, a cruise is the natural way to see more of the Nile and to reach the temples at Abu Simbel, which many travellers treat as the highlight of Upper Egypt. Expect an early start and a long day. If you would rather fly, EgyptAir serves Abu Simbel, and Aswan International Airport also handles public flights, including some long-haul connections such as London Gatwick.
Day three: Slow down and stay close to Aswan. The Kingdom of Narmer and the long history of the region are woven into the city itself, so a morning of walking and a lazy afternoon by the river make a fitting end. Women travelling alone will find Aswan manageable, though most visitors prefer to arrange transport through their hotel or a local guide. If you are continuing south, the cruise to Wadi Halfa is the route into Sudan; if you are heading north, Hurghada and Luxor are both reachable, and the Upper Egypt Bus Co covers many of the regional connections. Book your onward travel before you leave.