Stand at the southern end of the Corniche in the late afternoon and the Nile splits around you: feluccas tacking off Elephantine Island, the desert hills of the west bank turning amber, and the modern Coptic cathedral rising behind the trees. Aswan has been a frontier town, a market and a winter destination for a very long time, and it still feels like all three at once.
The city suits travellers who want ancient monuments without the crush of the northern Nile, and who are happy to move between the two banks by boat. Much of what is worth seeing sits on the river or just beyond it, so plan on ferries, feluccas and a certain amount of haggling.
This guide covers the sights in Aswan town and on the east bank, the river islands, the west bank and the dams, plus a one-day route that strings the best of them together.
Top things to do in Aswan
1. Philae Temple, Agilkia Island
Built to honour Isis, this was the last ancient temple built in the classical Egyptian architectural style, with construction beginning in approximately 690 BC. It was moved from Philae Island to its new location on Agilkia Island after the flooding of Lake Nasser, and you can see the submerged island a short distance away, punctuated by the steel columns used in the moving process. Look for the re-use of the temple as a Christian church, with crosses carved into the older hieroglyph reliefs and images of the Egyptian gods carefully defaced, as well as graffiti dating from the 1800s.
At the ticket office there is a sign stating that a daytime motorboat to the site costs LE150 roundtrip for 1–8 people including a one-hour wait, which is generally enough time. Take a picture of this sign to use when haggling with the boatmen, who will demand LE150 each way, and don't be surprised if you are still pressed for an additional baksheesh. The Sound and Light show at night is worth considering.
2. Nubian Museum
Opposite Basma Hotel and south of the Old Cataract Hotel, at the southern edge of Aswan town on Sharia Abtal al-Tahrir, roughly a half-hour walk from the city centre, this spacious museum opened in 1997 as a joint project of the Egyptian government and UNESCO. It traces the history of the Nubian region from pre-historic time up to the construction of the Aswan Dam in the 1960s and the consequent flooding of Nubia, and the building won the Aga Khan Award for Architecture. There is a sophisticated bookshop on site.
It opens daily 9AM–5PM, with additional hours Thu–Fri 6PM–9PM. It sits at the south end of the Corniche, so combine it with a walk along the river.
3. Elephantine Island: Nubian Villages & Aswan Museum
The Nubian villages of Siou and Koti occupy this island, which is also home to the famous Nilometers and the Temples of Sati, Khnum and Pepinakht-Heqaib. The Aswan Museum at the southern end of the island houses items found during excavations on Elephantine Island and includes access to the neighbouring archaeological site.
There is a regular boat taxi to Elephantine Island run by the locals, for which you usually pay to go and don't pay to come back. Be careful of unsolicited tours from locals, which will result in a request for baksheesh.
4. Tombs of the Nobles
The northern hills of the west bank are filled with the rock-hewn tombs of princes from the Old Kingdom to the Roman period. The 6th Dynasty tombs, some of which form linked family complexes, contain important biographical texts, and inside the tombs are vivid wall paintings showing scenes of everyday life, hieroglyphic biographies and inscriptions telling of the noblemen's journeys into Africa.
Your ticket gives you access to the Tombs of Mekhu & Sabni and the Tomb of Sarenput II on the left side coming up the hill, as well as the Tomb of Sarenput I on the right side, for all of which you will need the key holder waiting for you when you come up. Try to go with several other people so you can take pictures when the key holder is busy, especially in the Tomb of Sarenput II; otherwise you will probably have to pay him a fee for taking pictures. On the right side there is also a tomb (no. 35 l) with a spectacular bat colony at the far end, if you bring a torch.
5. Kubbet el-Hawa
On top of the hill above the Tombs of the Nobles sits the small shrine and tomb of a local sheikh and holy man. The climb is rewarded with views of Aswan, the Nile river and the surrounding landscape, evoked by the Arabic place name, "the dome of the wind". It is included in the Tombs of the Nobles ticket.
6. Monastery of St Simeon
The history of the monastery dates back to the 7th century, and it survived long as a Christian stronghold of southern Egypt until it was destroyed by Saladin in 1173. While still in use it housed 300 monks and could receive up to 100 pilgrims at a time, and it was surrounded by a 10 metre high wall, doubling as a fortress. Apparently the monastery did not return to its original use after Saladin's destruction.
To get here, ride a camel or walk from the Tombs of the Nobles; camel holders wait at the bottom and top of the tombs and can take you the rest of the way. It is open October–May 8AM–4PM and June–September 7AM–5PM.
7. Unfinished Obelisk
South of Aswan, this is the largest known ancient obelisk, carved directly out of bedrock. If finished it would have measured around 42 m and would have weighed nearly 1,200 tons, but a crack developed and the project was abandoned. This quarry also supplied the stone for the statue of Ramses II at Memphis.
There is a short video about obelisks shown by a man who demands tips. The site would be of interest to the most dedicated Egyptophiles, but maybe not to others.
8. Aswan Botanical Gardens (El Nabatat Island)
Lord Kitchener, who owned the 6.8-hectare island in the 1890s, converted it to a botanical garden. It is filled with birds and hundreds of plant species and palm trees.
It is accessible by motor boat, via a felucca tour, or via a rowboat from Elephantine Island — ask a local near where boats are lying on the western shore. The ticket office closes at 6PM during summer and 5PM during winter.
9. Seheyl Island
Just north of the old Aswan Dam, this island has friendly Nubian villages and is well known for its excellent beaded jewelry. It is also the location of the Famine Stela, and its cliff carries more than 200 inscriptions from the 18th dynasty.
It is open 7AM to 4PM.
10. Ferial Gardens
When you're in Aswan you'll have to walk along the Kornish Al Nile (Corniche) at least once. It is a pleasant stroll, made even more pleasant by the fact that you can walk right into the Ferial Gardens at its southern end. They are a park that is as relaxing as it is beautiful.
They are open 10AM–6:55PM at the southern end of the Corniche.
11. Archangel Michael's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral
At the south end of the Corniche, just north of the Nubian Museum, this modern Coptic cathedral dominates the skyline of southern Aswan. It pairs naturally with a walk along the Corniche and a visit to the museum.
12. Fatimid Cemetery
At the southern end of Aswan, the faded former glory of the Fatimid empire can be seen on the crumbling graveyard. It is a short addition to a southern Corniche walk.
13. The Low Dam
Built 1899–1902 across the First Cataract, upriver from town, this was a wonder in its time and the largest masonry dam in the world, but its water capacity soon became insufficient and led to the construction of the High Dam 6 km upstream. The Nile forms a lake behind the Low Dam with small islands; the main sight is the Philae Temple. The nearby Bigeh island also had shrines, and Lake Nasser itself is behind the High Dam.
14. Trajan's Kiosk
A hypaethral temple on Agilkia Island in the Old Aswan dam reservoir. One of the largest Ancient Egyptian monuments standing today, it is conventionally attributed to the Roman emperor Trajan, who gave it its current decorations, though some experts think the structure may be older, possibly dating to the time of Augustus. It is on the same island as Philae Temple, so see it as part of that trip.
15. Mausoleum of Mohammed Shah Aga Khan
High up on the west bank is the tomb of the 48th imam of the Islami sect and his wife. It is visible from the outside, although closed to the public.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start on the east bank with the Nubian Museum on Sharia Abtal al-Tahrir, then walk north along the Corniche to Archangel Michael's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral and the Fatimid Cemetery at the southern end, finishing in the Ferial Gardens.
Afternoon: Cross to the west bank for the Tombs of the Nobles, climbing on to Kubbet el-Hawa for the views over the Nile. If you have the energy and the time, continue by camel or on foot to the Monastery of St Simeon.
Evening: Take a boat to Agilkia Island for Philae Temple, and stay for the Sound and Light show at night, which is the least cheesy of the Sound and Light "extravaganzas".
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Elephantine Island?
There is a regular boat taxi to Elephantine Island run by the locals. You usually pay to go and don't pay to come back.
What is the best way to reach the Aswan Botanical Gardens?
You can go by motor boat, as part of a felucca tour, or by rowboat from Elephantine Island — ask a local near where boats are lying on the western shore.
How do I get from the Tombs of the Nobles to the Monastery of St Simeon?
Ride a camel or walk from the Tombs of the Nobles. Camel holders wait at the bottom and top of the tombs and can also be used for the ride to the monastery.
Is the Mausoleum of Mohammed Shah Aga Khan open to visitors?
It is visible from the outside, although closed to the public.
Work out which bank you want to sleep on, check the seasonal opening times for the monastery and the gardens, and start planning your days around the river.