Stand on the street below Hawa Mahal in the old city and the pink facades run away from you in both directions, five storeys of windows stacked above the traffic. This is the Jaipur most visitors picture, and it is only the beginning of a city where forts sit on the ridges and palaces occupy whole quarters.
Jaipur suits travellers who are happy to move between monumental sights and busy streets in the same day, and who want a base for the wider state. It forms part of the Western Golden Triangle tourist circuit along with Delhi and Agra, and it serves as a gateway to other destinations in Rajasthan such as Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Bikaner, Udaipur, Bundi, Kota and Mount Abu.
This guide covers the principal sights in and around the city, with practical notes on how to combine them, followed by a plan for a single day.
Top things to do in Jaipur
1. Amber Fort
Amber Fort is a massive fort-palace complex built in a hybrid Hindu-Muslim style, dating back to Raja Man Singh and serving as the royal palace of the Kachwahas from around 1600 to 1727. It is one of six UNESCO World Heritage forts in Rajasthan. The name has nothing to do with the pastel yellow colour; the fort is named after the area of Amber, which is in turn named after the goddess Amba.
The grounds are sprawling and the information panels in Hindi and English are somewhat limited, so an audio guide or a real guide is worth considering. It is a bit of a hike up from the town, and the touristy option is to ride an elephant to the top; if you want to do this, arrive in the morning, as by midday the elephants are done working. Note that the site has come under scrutiny, with tourists reporting elephants being beaten by handlers. If you hire a genuine guide, expect to be taken not only to Amber Fort but also to the Rajasthan Kala Mandir, a government-operated shop, where guides receive a 2% commission on what you buy. If you walk up the hill to Jaigarh Fort, be prepared to pay the entry fee, as the path terminates at a ticket window with no way around to the road. Within the fort, look for Dalaram Bagh, the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) and the Sheesh Mahal (Glass Palace), a palace adorned with thousands of mirror tiles on the walls and ceiling.
2. City Palace
The City Palace is an imposing blend of traditional Rajput and Mughal architecture, a vast complex occupying nearly one-seventh of the Pink City, built by Maharaja Jai Singh II. It is divided into a series of courtyards, sprawling gardens and buildings, and is home to palatial structures including the Chandra Mahal, home to the present Maharajah of Jaipur; the Mubarak Mahal, which houses a textile museum; the Diwan-e-Khas, or Hall of Private Audience, housing the two largest silver vessels in the world; the Diwan-e-Aam, or Hall of Public Audience; and the gateway Ridhi Sidhi Pol, with four small doorways decorated with motifs depicting the four seasons.
Be warned that although tickets are sold for taking photos with a camera inside, most exhibits carry a "no photography" sign. It sits inside the old city close to New Gate and Hawa Mahal, and there is a metro stop at Badi Chaupar, so it pairs naturally with the surrounding streets.
3. Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Breeze, was built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Singh as part of City Palace, as an extension of the Zenana, or women's, chamber. Its purpose was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen. It is a five-storey red sandstone structure complete with over 950 windows; the breeze, or hawa, circulates through these windows, giving the palace its name.
The iconic facade is best seen from the street, which is free. It is included in the Composite Ticket and is free on 18 May. Cameras are free. Combine it with City Palace, which is close by.
4. Jaigarh Fort
Jaigarh Fort was never conquered in battle and was considered the strongest of the three forts in the area. It is best known as the site of the world's largest cannon, the Jaivana, which was test-fired only once; according to legend, despite using only half the design amount of gunpowder, the cannonball flew 35 km. A better reason to visit, though, are the scenic gardens at the other end and the spectacular views over Amber Fort and the hills around. The remains of the foundry where the Jaivana and many more were cast are also in the fort grounds.
It is a 1 km walk uphill from Amber Fort, or a motorbike or auto-rickshaw ride. There are multiple boards reading "no tips allowed," in case someone is bothering you. If you do not disclose that you have a camera and are later seen taking a photo, for example with your phone, you may be asked to show your ticket and either buy the camera ticket or be penalised.
5. Nahargarh Fort
Nahargarh Fort is the smallest of the three forts, notable primarily for excellent views over Man Sagar lake and the vast sprawl of Jaipur. It was built in 1734 by the Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II in a mix of Indian and European styles, and houses the relatively compact Madhavendra Bhawan palace, although its former splendour is fading under layers of graffiti and pigeon droppings. Some of the film Rang De Basanti was shot at this fort; to get to the area where the "Pathshala" song was shot, take a left turn as soon as you enter the fort.
An auto-rickshaw can be taken from the stand in front of Amber Fort. The fort also houses Jaipur's Wax Museum and Sheesh Mahal, though tickets for these must be bought separately. Beware of the Wax Museum and Sheesh Mahal combo ticket: you will be paraded through the largely unimpressive museum and then told to queue for the Sheesh Mahal, which can last from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Nahargarh is included in the 5-monument Composite Ticket.
6. Jal Mahal
Jal Mahal, the Water Palace, was made by the King of Amber in the middle of the Man Sagar Lake. It represents the use of Mughal and Rajput architectural styles. It is free to view and photograph, but it is private property, so you probably will not be allowed to enter.
It sits on Amer Road on the way to Amber Fort, which makes it an easy stop as you travel between the city and the fort.
7. Birla Mandir
Birla Mandir, also known as the Marble Temple or Lakshmi Narayan Temple, is a relatively new temple made of white marble with beautiful carvings. It covers a vast area in Jaipur city and is built in a contemporary manner, constructed entirely with fine, high-quality white marble. In addition to statues and paintings of Hindu deities, the temple has pictures of famous philosophers from around the world, including Socrates, Confucius and Zoroaster.
No bags besides purses, no food and no cameras are allowed. No photos are permitted in the temple, though the rules are not enforced outside. It sits below the well-known Moti Dungri Fort.
8. Galtaji
Galtaji, also known as Shree Galta Ji or the Monkey Temple, is an ancient Hindu pilgrimage site. The main temple, Galtaji, is constructed in pink stone, and has a number of pavilions with rounded roofs, exquisitely carved pillars and painted walls. The temple is surrounded by natural springs and reservoirs that are considered holy, and there are also seven tanks, or kunds, here.
There are two routes to reach the temple: if you arrive from the west you will have to hike uphill and downhill for about 20 minutes, while the eastern gate is easily accessible by car, though it is a longer journey to get there. It lies on the Jaipur-Agra highway near Sisodia Rani Garden.
9. Galwar Bagh
Galwar Bagh, the Monkey Temple, sits on the eastern edge of the city, adjacent to Suriya Mandir, also known as the Sun Temple. Locals and tourists come here to feed the surprisingly tame monkeys, use the temples and enjoy the views. You can climb to the top of the hill and then down into the valley to see the Monkey Temple, while enjoying the company of countless monkeys, goats and other animals.
At the top of the hill, turn right to reach the Sun Temple for one of the best views of the city, especially at sunset. Monkey food is available for purchase.
10. Akshardham Temple
Akshardham Temple is in Vaishali Nagar. It is one of the temples in the city worth including if you are already covering the temple circuit.
11. Mundota Fort and Palace
Mundota Fort and Palace is a 450-year-old palace, built around 1550 by Jaswant Singh. It is a separate excursion from the main fort circuit and is best treated as a destination in its own right rather than a stop squeezed between others.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Amber Fort, arriving early enough to walk up or take an elephant ride before the animals finish working at midday. Work through Dalaram Bagh, the Diwan-i-Am and the Sheesh Mahal, then walk the 1 km uphill to Jaigarh Fort for the gardens and the views back over Amber Fort.
Afternoon: Stop at Jal Mahal on Amer Road as you return towards the city, then continue to the old city for City Palace, close to New Gate. Finish the afternoon at Hawa Mahal, whose facade is best seen from the street and is free to view.
Evening: Head to Galwar Bagh on the eastern edge of the city. Climb to the top of the hill, turn right to reach the Sun Temple, and take in one of the best views of the city at sunset.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time of year to visit Jaipur?
The months from December to February are mild, dry and pleasant, sometimes chilly, with average temperatures remaining below 20 °C. Summers are long and extremely hot, and most of the annual rainfall falls in July and August due to the southwest monsoon.
What is the Composite Ticket and which sights does it cover?
The Composite Ticket is a combined ticket that includes Amber Fort, Hawa Mahal and Nahargarh Fort. Note that it is not valid for the special evening viewing at Amber Fort.
Should I ride an elephant up to Amber Fort?
Elephant rides are available, but the site has come under scrutiny, with tourists reporting elephants being beaten by handlers. If you do want a ride, arrive in the morning, as by midday the elephants are done working.
How do I reach the forts from central Jaipur?
Amber Fort is 11 km north of central Jaipur, and local bus #5 runs there from Hawa Mahal or New Gate. For Jaigarh Fort, it is a 1 km walk uphill from Amber Fort, or a motorbike or auto-rickshaw ride. An auto-rickshaw to Nahargarh Fort can be taken from the stand in front of Amber Fort.
Use these notes to sketch your route, check the seasons against your dates, and start planning your days in Jaipur.