Stand on the western pagoda of Yongzuo Temple and the whole of Taiyuan spreads out below you, the Fen River cutting through the centre of the plain. It is one of the clearest introductions to a city that has been a capital, a provisional capital and a frontier garrison at different points in its long history.
Taiyuan suits travellers who care about architecture, sculpture and the layers of dynastic history that shaped northern China. It rewards slow days rather than quick stops, and several of its best sights sit well outside the centre, so a little planning goes a long way.
This guide covers the temples, museums and parks worth your time, with practical notes on how to combine them.
Top things to do in Taiyuan
1. Jinci Temple
Jinci Temple is an ancient ancestral temple founded about 1400 years ago and expanded across the Sui, Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, which is why so many architectural styles sit side by side here. It holds over 100 halls, towers, pavilions, terraces and bridges, along with some of the best Song Dynasty sculptures and buildings still extant in China, gardens and ancient trees.
The Hall of the Holy Mother is the most famous structure, completed in 1032, with carved wooden dragons coiled around the eight pillars supporting its upward-curving double-eave roof, and clay sculptures inside that each carry a different facial expression. Look also for the Hall of Offerings and the Flying Bridge Across the Fish Pond. It lies about 25 km southwest of central Taiyuan; bus 8 from the railway station takes about 45 minutes, or bus 308 from near the railway station takes about 1.5 hours.
2. Yongzuo Temple
Yongzuo Temple is noted for its pair of 13-story octagonal pagodas, dating back some 400 years and often used as a symbol of the city. The two towers are built of brick and stone and stand 53 metres in height.
You can climb a spiral staircase to the top of the western pagoda for a panoramic view over Taiyuan, which makes this a good first stop for orienting yourself. It is on Shuangta North Road in Yingze District, reachable by bus 812, 820 or 873.
3. Shanxi Museum
The Shanxi Museum occupies a modern four-storey building at a prime location along the Fen River in central Taiyuan, with a very impressive collection of artifacts from this history-heavy province. Permanent exhibits cover relics from the Paleolithic and Neolithic ages, ancient Chinese porcelain, painting and calligraphy, jades, bronzes, Chinese currency, historical architecture, Buddhist stone sculptures and Shanxi merchants, with signage in Chinese and English.
Allow a generous half day, and note that last entry is at 4PM. It is on Binhe West Road; take bus 1 and then walk.
4. Tianlongshan Grottoes
The Tianlongshan Grottoes are a series of 25 caves carved into the mountainside of Tianlong Mountain, well known among Chinese art experts for the fine Buddhist statues and decorations sculpted within. The earliest caves were built during the Eastern Wei Dynasty, with more added in the Northern Qi, Sui and Tang dynasties; Grottoes 2 and 3 are the oldest in the complex, dating back nearly 1500 years.
The largest and most impressive is the ninth grotto, a multi-storied cave with several large Buddha statues covered by an intricate three-story wooden pavilion. The site is about 40 km southwest of Taiyuan and best reached by car; a bus runs from Wuyi Square to Qingxu, the nearest major town to the grottoes.
5. Chongshan Temple
The first Chongshan Temple was built in the Tang Dynasty and extended in 1381, though most of it was destroyed in the 19th century. It is now home to the Buddhist Association of Shanxi Province and includes the Bell Tower, the Dabei Hall and the east and west wing rooms.
The main hall holds three magnificent statues, among them one of Guanyin, Goddess of Mercy, with 1,000 hands and eyes. Entry is free, and it sits on Diliang Street in Yingze District; buses 2, 3, 843, 819 and 818 will take you within walking distance.
6. Mengshan Big Buddha
The Mengshan Big Buddha is an enormous carved Buddha statue set into a hillside, with a replaced modern head. It is one of the city's more striking outdoor monuments and pairs naturally with a half day in the surrounding hills.
Because the statue sits in the open, plan it for clear weather rather than a wet or hazy day.
7. Old Mosque
A mosque was first built at this location in the Tang Dynasty, though the present building is much younger. It stands at 20 Jiefang Road and is reachable by bus 1, 4 or 5.
It is a short, quiet stop that fits easily into a morning in the city centre. The telephone number listed for enquiries is +86 351 2027142.
8. Chunyang Palace
Chunyang Palace was built in the 13th century and has since been extended significantly. It features a garden and temple as well as a number of other buildings.
It is at 33 Jianshe North Road; take bus 3, 4 or 5 to Wuyi Square stop. Summer hours are 8AM to 6PM and winter hours 9AM to 5PM, but note that it was closed for repair as of April 2018 with no end date given, so check before you go.
9. China Coal Museum
The China Coal Museum presents exhibits on China's coal industry, a subject that shaped this province deeply. It is at 2 Yingze West Avenue, reachable by bus 1, 38, 601, 611, 618, 809, 813, 822, 855 or 859 to Yingze Bridge West Station.
Opening is Tuesday to Sunday, 8AM to noon and 2:30PM to 6PM. A personal English-speaking tour guide can be arranged for an additional fee and does add to the experience.
10. Yingze Park
Yingze Park is named because it lies outside the Yingze Gate of the ancient city. It is a large comprehensive park and one of the important places in the province for people to rest, visit the city and attend festivals and cultural and recreational activities.
It sits north of Yingze Street, east of Youth Road, south of Nansha River and west of South Jiefang Road, which makes it an easy breather between central sights.
11. Children's Park
Children's Park dates back to the Qing Dynasty and is home to a library, exhibitions, a planetarium and a number of older and newer buildings. It is in the city centre on Haizibian West Street.
Because it combines green space with indoor exhibits, it works well as a flexible stop if the weather turns.
12. Forest Park
Forest Park is an artificial forest park landscaped with valleys and rivers, and features various recreational facilities. It occupies the northern part of the city, with the main entrance and parking area at the West Gate on Binhe East Road.
It opens 7AM to 8PM, giving you a long window for an early walk or a late afternoon visit.
13. Duofu Temple
Duofu Temple, whose name means Blessing Temple, sits on Juewei Mountain about 20 km from central Taiyuan. It is a small, quiet site rather than a major complex.
Combine it with the mountain setting rather than treating it as a standalone trip from the centre.
14. Longquan Temple
Longquan Temple, also known as Taishan Temple, lies about 23 km from the city. It is one of the outlying temples that rewards travellers willing to travel beyond the centre.
As with the other distant temples, arrange transport in advance and allow time for the journey in both directions.
15. Jindoudaifu Shrine
Jindoudaifu Shrine is a historical site open 8AM to 5PM. It is a modest stop best suited to travellers already covering the city's historical places.
Pair it with other sites on the same side of the city to avoid backtracking.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Yongzuo Temple, where you can climb the western pagoda for a view over the city before the day fills up. Continue to Chongshan Temple on Diliang Street, a short and free stop with the thousand-handed Guanyin in the main hall.
Afternoon: Spend the middle of the day at the Shanxi Museum on Binhe West Road, working through the exhibition halls on bronzes, Buddhist stone sculptures and Shanxi merchants. Remember that last entry is at 4PM.
Evening: Finish at Yingze Park, walking the grounds outside the old Yingze Gate as the day cools. If you still have energy, the Old Mosque on Jiefang Road is nearby for a final quiet stop.
Frequently asked questions
How do I reach Jinci Temple without a car?
Take bus 8 from the railway station, which takes about 45 minutes, or bus 308 from near the railway station, which takes about 1.5 hours.
Is the Shanxi Museum free to enter?
Yes, entry is free. It is open 8AM to 5PM with last entry at 4PM.
Can I climb the pagodas at Yongzuo Temple?
You can climb a spiral staircase to the top of the western pagoda for a panoramic view over the city.
Which sights lie outside the city centre?
Jinci Temple is about 25 km southwest of central Taiyuan, the Tianlongshan Grottoes are about 40 km southwest, Duofu Temple is about 20 km away on Juewei Mountain, and Longquan Temple is about 23 km from the city.
Decide which of these fit your days, check the current status of any site under repair, and start mapping your route through Taiyuan.