Stand at the eastern end of Shenyang Lu and the reconstructed gate of Huaiyuanmen rises over the pavement, with its twin, Fujinmen, closing the view at the far end of the street. Between them lies the outline of the old walled city, and just beyond it the palace from which the Qing dynasty was launched.
Shenyang suits travellers who are interested in the Manchu and Qing past, in twentieth-century history, and in the industrial story of China's northeast. It rewards a day of walking and a day of museums, and the metro and bus network makes both straightforward.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, with practical notes on when to go and what to combine with what.
Top things to do in Shenyang
1. Mukden Palace
Built in 1625 for Nurhachi and inherited by his son Abahai, the Former Imperial Palace is one of two royal complexes still standing in China, and it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site alongside the palace in Beijing. The Manchu architectural style is distinct, and the complex includes the Dazheng (Grand Politics) Hall, the Ten Princes' Pavilion, Chongzhen (Golden Chimes), the Phoenix Chamber and the Qingning (Pure Tranquility) Pavilion. The handcrafted carving and painting are still clear after four centuries, and the throne room in Chongzheng Hall has particularly detailed scrollwork, down to the dragons on the columns and the throne itself.
An English guidebook is sold at the ticket office and explains the exhibits in detail. On Saturday afternoons during the summer, the palace hosts a grand Imperial procession. Bus 222 or 213 will get you there.
2. Zhaoling
Zhaoling is the tomb of the second Qing emperor, Huang Taiji, and his consorts, built over eight years in the mid-seventeenth century and blending traditional Manchu and Chinese architecture. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of only three imperial tombs north of the Great Wall of China. The tomb sits in the centre of Beiling Park, which spreads around it with large areas of forest and several lakes.
Allow time for the park as well as the tomb, and note that the park itself is free before 06:00 each day. Beiyuan Gongyuan station on Metro Line 2 is the nearest stop.
3. Fuling
Fuling is the first tomb of the Qing dynasty, where Nu'erhachi, the dynasty's founder, is buried. It dates to the early seventeenth century and is laid out in traditional Manchu style along the lines of Chinese fengshui. Like Zhaoling it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of only three imperial tombs north of the Great Wall. A large area of parkland, Dongling Park, extends to the east of the tomb site.
Buses 148 and 168 run here from the north station and take about an hour, so treat it as a half-day rather than a quick stop.
4. Former residence of Zhang Xueliang
This was the home of Zhang Zuolin and his son Zhang Xueliang during the final years of the Qing dynasty and the early Republic. Zhang became the warlord in control of northeast China after the fall of the Qing emperor, and was for a short time proclaimed president of China. The ticket also includes entry to the Zhao Yi Di House next door and the Financial Museum.
It is a short walk south from the Imperial Palace, which makes it an easy pairing with the palace on the same outing.
5. 9.18 Memorial Museum
At 22:30 on 18 September 1931 a bomb exploded beside the Japanese-run railway line near Shenyang. Though instigated by the Japanese, the Chinese were blamed, giving the Japanese an excuse to invade and occupy the whole of the northeast. The museum stands next to the spot where the explosion occurred and depicts the incident from a Chinese perspective. It does not soften the atrocities of war, so it is not for the faint of heart.
Only the main descriptions are in English, but the pictures and exhibits carry much of the story. It is closed on Mondays, and entry stops thirty minutes before closing.
6. Shenyang World War II Allied Prisoners Camp Site Museum
From 1942 to 1945 around 1500 soldiers from six different countries were interned by the Japanese at this prisoner-of-war camp. The site is now a museum, with information provided in both Chinese and English. It is close to Pangjiangjie station on Metro Line 1.
It is closed on Mondays, so plan it for another day of the week.
7. Xinle Ancient Ruins Museum
The remains of a stone age village were found at this location, and a museum now houses the archaeological finds while the village itself has been reconstructed. The site is in two sections: the ticket office is on the north side of the road, and you are directed across to the museum on the south side before returning north to enter the reconstruction area. Displays are labelled in Chinese and English.
It sits just off Huanghenan Da Jie on the west side of Beiling Park, close to Xinle Yizhi station on Metro Line 2, so it combines well with a visit to Zhaoling and the park.
8. Former Site of Shenyang Military Tribunal for the Trial of Japanese War Criminals
Between 9 June and 20 July 1956, 36 Japanese war criminals were publicly tried and prosecuted at this site, which is now a museum. It is free to enter, and it sits about 960 metres southeast of Zhongyiyaodaxue station on Metro lines 2 and 10, with buses 106, 280, 281, 290 and 292 stopping just outside.
It is closed on Mondays, and there is no entry in the last thirty minutes before closing.
9. Liaoning Provincial Museum
The provincial museum is in Hunnan District, reached by bus from Baitahe Road station on Metro Line 2. Opening hours vary by season, and it is closed on Mondays.
Because of the journey out, give it a proper block of time rather than squeezing it between two central sights.
10. China Museum of Industry
This museum tells the story of the industrialisation of China and is built on the site of an old foundry, which has been largely preserved in its original state. It is free, and it sits near the Olympic Stadium in Tiexi District. Bus 277 can be caught from Shenyang North Railway Station, while buses 175 and 300 run from Qigong Street, just outside Qigong Street station on Metro Line 1.
It is closed on Mondays.
11. City walls, Shenyang Lu
The original city walls of Shenyang were destroyed in the 1950s, and small sections have since been reconstructed to give an impression of the former city. What remains consists of two gates, Huaiyuanmen and Fujinmen, at either end of Shenyang Lu.
Walk the length of the street between the two gates, and use the walk to reach the Imperial Palace, which stands just off Shenyang Lu.
12. Shengjing Ancient Cultural Street
Shengjing is the old name for Shenyang during the seventeenth century, when jing meant capital city. This street outside the Imperial Palace tries to recreate the architectural styles of the time, though it is a facade over the front of relatively modern twentieth-century structures, within which a variety of tourist-oriented shops operate. It is free.
It is best treated as something to look at on your way in or out of the palace rather than a destination in itself.
13. The old Longkou Wine Museum
A small museum beside the Laolongkou distillery tells the history of baijiu production on a site dating to the early seventeenth century. The display includes old maps and photographs of the area, equipment used in wine production, and a collection of old bottles, labels and trademarks used by the company. It is free.
It is on Xiao Dong Lu, and its small size makes it a short stop rather than an afternoon.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Huaiyuanmen at the western end of Shenyang Lu and walk the reconstructed line of the city walls east to Fujinmen, then continue to the Mukden Palace when it opens. Give the palace a full morning, and pick up the English guidebook at the ticket office.
Afternoon: Walk south from the palace to the Former residence of Zhang Xueliang, where the ticket also covers the Zhao Yi Di House next door and the Financial Museum. If time remains, look in on the old Longkou Wine Museum on Xiao Dong Lu.
Evening: Take Metro Line 2 to Beiyuan Gongyuan and spend the late afternoon and early evening in Beiling Park, finishing at Zhaoling in the centre of the park.
Frequently asked questions
Which sights in Shenyang are free?
The 9.18 Memorial Museum, the Former Site of Shenyang Military Tribunal for the Trial of Japanese War Criminals, the China Museum of Industry, the old Longkou Wine Museum and Shengjing Ancient Cultural Street are all free to enter. Beiling Park is free daily before 06:00.
Which days should I avoid for museum visits?
Several museums close on Mondays, including the 9.18 Memorial Museum, the Shenyang World War II Allied Prisoners Camp Site Museum, the Former Site of Shenyang Military Tribunal for the Trial of Japanese War Criminals, the China Museum of Industry and the Liaoning Provincial Museum. Build Monday around the palace, the tombs and the city walls instead.
How do I reach the imperial tombs without a car?
Buses 148 and 168 run to Fuling from the north station and take about an hour. Zhaoling is in the centre of Beiling Park, roughly a kilometre from the park's south entrance, near Beiyuan Gongyuan station on Metro Line 2.
When can I see the Imperial procession at the palace?
The Mukden Palace hosts a grand Imperial procession on Saturday afternoons during the summer.
Pick the tombs for one day and the museums for another, check the Monday closures against your dates, and you have enough to start planning a trip to Shenyang.