Getting Around Smolensk
Smolensk sits on the upper Dnieper River, which divides the city into a northern part (Zadneprove) and a southern part, where the historic centre lies. The old town occupies the high, rugged left bank, and the terrain is undulating, with creeks and ravines cutting through it. That geography shapes how you move around: the centre is compact and walkable, but the city as a whole is hillier than many visitors expect, and the different modes of transport each have their own character.
On Foot
Walking is one of the best ways to see Smolensk. The centre is quite pedestrian friendly, and many of the main sights can be reached on foot. Once you leave the centre, though, you need to pay attention to which side of the street you are on: long stretches of congested road with no crossing for a kilometre are the norm. Combined with the hills, that makes some outlying areas less pleasant to explore on foot.
Trams
Smolensk has a tram network, but the trams are in notoriously bad condition, with a significant amount of rust. On many routes they move only a little faster than walking pace because of the poor state of the tracks. They are part of the city's public transport system, but they are not the most comfortable or quickest option.
Buses, Trolleybuses and Marshrutkas
Public transport in Smolensk is cheap, but it is also unreliable and slow. Much of the network is built around marshrutka buses, which are often in bad condition, with damaged doors and windows and visible rust. If you do want to use public transport, buses and trolleybuses offer the best quality of service, so it is worth sticking to those where possible.
A few practical points apply across all forms of public transport:
- You pay either the driver or a check-taker on board.
- Vehicles arrive whenever they want; the timetable is only a suggestion.
- You need to signal clearly that you want to ride, as a bus may not stop for you otherwise.
Given all of this, going on foot or taking a taxi is generally a better bet than relying on public transit.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis are common in Smolensk and quite cheap, which makes them an attractive option for getting across the city or up its hills. An average trip within the city costs around 200 RUB. Russian ride-hailing apps are also available as an alternative. Drivers are mostly Russians, in contrast to the larger cities in the country.
By Car
You can drive nearly everywhere in Smolensk, and there are plenty of free parking spaces. Road conditions are quite good by Russian standards. Keep in mind that the city is quite hilly, which affects driving as much as walking.
Arriving by Train
Smolensk's railway station is the main rail gateway to the city. Several trains from Moscow's Belorusskiy station reach Smolensk in five to six hours. Some of these services continue into Europe, as far as Paris and Nice in summer only, and the same trains can be used to reach Smolensk from Belarus. A daily express also connects Smolensk with Bryansk. For schedules and queries, the railway station inquiry office can be reached on 27-15-20 or 39-52-85.
Arriving by Bus
Long-distance buses also serve the city. Several times a week there are services connecting Smolensk with European towns such as Berlin, Warsaw, Madrid and Riga, though the timetable is subject to change. Other buses run to Mogilev, Kaluga, Velikiye Luki, Kursk and Tver, while daily services run to Mstislavl, Belgorod, Bryansk, Moscow, Oryol, Saint Petersburg and Tula. The bus station inquiry office can be reached on 27-09-52.
Arriving by Plane
Smolensk has two airports, but they are used by the military only and do not accept civil planes. There have been discussions about reverting them to civil airports, but those projects are still on hold. In practice, this means there is no civil airport serving the city, so visitors should plan to arrive by train, bus or car instead.
Arriving by Car or Hitchhiking
Smolensk is situated on the M1/E30 and A141 highways. Both are good for hitchhiking as well, though note that the M1 is about 6 km from the town.