Stand on the high left bank of the Dnieper and the city opens up in layers: the river below, the green ridges of the Smolensk Upland beyond, and behind you the brick towers of a fortress wall that has been part of this place since the end of the sixteenth century. Smolensk is one of the oldest cities in Russia, first mentioned in 863, and it wears that history in stone rather than in showpieces.
It suits travellers who are passing between Moscow and the west, or anyone drawn to medieval churches, fortifications and the layered memory of a city that has stood on the route to Moscow through several centuries of conflict. This guide covers the sights worth your time in the city and its immediate surroundings, and how to string them together if your visit is short.
Top things to do in Smolensk
1. Smolensk Kremlin
The partially preserved fortress wall was built between 1595 and 1602 and is the largest stone kremlin in Russia, with thick walls and numerous watchtowers. It is the natural starting point for understanding the city, since so much of what you will see elsewhere sits in its shadow.
On the western side there is a park with a pond and a small amusement park whose Ferris wheel gives a wide view over the city. On the southern side you will find the commemoration site for the hero city of Smolensk and for the Soviet soldiers who died defending it during World War II. Combine the wall walk with the park on the western side, and leave the southern memorial for a quieter moment.
2. Dormition Cathedral in Smolensk
This is a 300-year-old cathedral in the baroque style, and it stands at the centre of the city's religious life. The cathedral housed one of the most venerated Orthodox icons, attributed to St. Luke, and building the new Cathedral of the Assumption was a project that took more than a century to complete.
Pair it with a walk along the kremlin wall, since the two are the anchors of the old centre. Allow time to sit with the interior rather than treating it as a quick stop.
3. Katyń
Several kilometres west of Smolensk lies the Katyn forest. Early in World War II, the Soviets had a non-aggression pact with Germany and both countries invaded Poland. The Katyń massacre was a series of killings of Poles of various professions, including professors, doctors, soldiers, lawmakers and police officers, by the NKVD, apparently on direct orders of Joseph Stalin. The number of victims is estimated at 22,000, though only a few thousand were actually executed in the forest.
The site has some mass graves and a memorial. It is a place for quiet attention rather than sightseeing, so set aside unhurried time and go with the expectation of a sombre visit.
If you only have one day
Morning: Begin at the Smolensk Kremlin, walking the preserved sections of the wall and taking in the towers. Continue to the western side, where the park with its pond and small amusement park sits, and ride the Ferris wheel for a view over the city.
Afternoon: Move on to the Dormition Cathedral in Smolensk, the 300-year-old baroque cathedral at the heart of the old city, and give it proper time. Afterwards, return to the southern side of the kremlin for the commemoration site for the hero city of Smolensk and the Soviet soldiers who died in its defence during World War II.
Evening: If you have a vehicle or a driver, make the trip several kilometres west to Katyń, where the forest holds mass graves and a memorial. Go while there is still light and leave yourself a calm end to the day.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Smolensk?
Smolensk is a city and the administrative centre of Smolensk Oblast in Russia, located on the Dnieper River, 360 kilometres west-southwest of Moscow. The Dnieper flows through the city from east to west and divides it into a northern part, Zadneprove, and a southern centre.
How old is the city?
Smolensk was first mentioned in 863, making it one of the oldest cities in Russia. It has been a regional capital for most of the past millennium.
What is the kremlin wall and when was it built?
The Smolensk Kremlin is a partially preserved fortress wall built between 1595 and 1602. It is the largest stone kremlin in Russia and features thick walls and numerous watchtowers.
Is Katyń within reach of the city?
Yes. The Katyn forest lies several kilometres west of Smolensk and contains mass graves and a memorial relating to the Katyń massacre.
Decide how many days you can give to the wall, the cathedral and the forest, and start planning your route along the Dnieper.