Getting Your Bearings
La Paz is built in a canyon created by the Choqueyapu River, sitting in a bowl-like depression surrounded by the high mountains of the Altiplano at roughly 3,650 m above sea level. That topography shapes everything about how you move: the city spills down hillsides, the main thoroughfare roughly follows the river through the downtown core (the central tree-lined stretch is called the Prado), and the satellite city of El Alto spreads across the flat Altiplano to the west. The practical consequence for a visitor is simple: streets are narrow, driving yourself is not recommended, and the easiest thing to do when you are lost is to walk downhill until you hit the Prado or another main avenue, from where you can grab a taxi.
Public transport here is largely underdeveloped compared to Europe, East Asia, or even other South American cities, so most of the time a taxi is the preferred option. That said, the city has one genuinely distinctive and useful asset: the world's largest urban cable car network.
By Cable Car (Mi Teleférico)
The cable car system, Mi Teleférico, is the standout way to get around. It connects El Alto with downtown La Paz and reaches out to other neighbourhoods, and using it saves a lot of time compared to taxis or minibuses, which can sit for ages in traffic. A ride costs Bs. 3, and you need a new ticket for each transfer.
- Tickets and cards: Tickets for all lines are the same, so you can buy in bulk and skip the queues — a ticket bought at one line is valid on another. There is also a rechargeable card costing Bs. 25 with Bs. 5 of credit loaded, which saves you time waiting in ticket queues.
- It's an attraction in itself: Even if you're not trying to reach El Alto, riding is an experience. Taking the red line up to 16 de Julio station in El Alto gives you a great view of the city from above.
- Round trips: It's even possible to loop around much of the city — several lines form a circle, making a round trip of roughly an hour and a half to two hours for the price of a ticket per leg.
Locals are very proud of the system, keep it immaculate, and greet each new passenger entering the car.
Buses, Minibuses and Trufis
Shared public transport in La Paz comes in three flavours, all of which display their routes on the windshield:
- Micros — regular buses, costing around Bs. 1.30.
- Mini buses — shared vans, costing roughly Bs. 1.50–2.30 depending on the duration of the trip. In El Alto they run about Bs. 1. A bonus: fare collectors hang out the side yelling out routes in a rapid, auctioneer-like manner.
- Trufis — shared taxis running set routes advertised on the windshield, generally costing Bs. 3–3.50.
You can hail a bus or mini bus anywhere along its route. To get off, just yell out "¡voy a bajar!"
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis are the easiest way to get around the city. They aren't metered, so agree on a fare before boarding. A ride within downtown should run about Bs. 6–8, and a normal trip from downtown to somewhere else within the city won't cost more than Bs. 20. If you're going further afield, ask two or more drivers before boarding so you know the going rate.
As for ride-hailing, La Paz is Didi country — there are hardly any Ubers to be found. If you want to hail a ride with your phone, download the Didi app and complete registration before you need it.
On Foot
Walking works best as a complement to other modes rather than as your sole strategy. The hills are steep and the altitude is punishing, so take it slowly. The reliable trick if you lose your bearings: walk downhill. You'll eventually reach the Prado or another main avenue, where you can pick up a taxi — useful if you find yourself on the south side of the city.
Arriving by Air: El Alto International Airport
El Alto International Airport (LPB) sits in El Alto, on the Altiplano west of the canyon. It is the world's highest international airport, at over 4,000 m above sea level — almost half as high as a jetliner's cruising altitude, and takeoffs need a longer runway because of the thin air.
Take it easy on arrival. Resist the habit of racing to immigration to beat the queues. Walk slowly, or you will be seriously out of breath and may suffer medical complications.
Departure tax: There is an airport departure tax of US$25 for international flights and Bs. 15 (around US$2) for domestic flights. It can only be paid in cash, but several ATMs at the airport dispense US dollars.
Getting into the city:
- Private taxi: The official rate into central La Paz is Bs. 60 per person. Only use radio taxis with a sign on the roof.
- Shared taxi: Can cost as little as Bs. 25 per person.
- Shared vans: Cost Bs. 3.80. If you arrive on a domestic flight, you'll see the vans straight ahead to your right when exiting after baggage claim. The route runs down the autopista, past San Francisco Plaza and El Prado, down to Plaza Isabel la Católica.
Heading back to the airport: Give yourself plenty of time if you're taking the bus — they often fill up once they pass near Plaza San Francisco, especially during the 17:00–19:00 rush. The first bus leaves from Plaza Isabel la Católica in Sopocachi at 06:15.
Airlines serving El Alto: South American carriers such as LATAM and Avianca, plus local airlines Boliviana de Aviación (BoA) and Ecojet. State-funded BoA and LATAM (usually cheaper) serve major domestic destinations and some major South American hubs.
Arriving by Long-Distance Bus
La Paz's main bus station has food, ATMs, and surprisingly fast free WiFi. Buses run to major cities including Cochabamba, Santa Cruz, Oruro, Potosí, Sucre, Tupiza, Tarija, Uyuni, and across the border to Arica and Iquique in Chile. Buses leaving or arriving in La Paz usually stop in El Alto to pick up or drop off more passengers. If you're arriving from the south, try to sit on the right side of the bus — you'll pass through El Alto on the way, with great views of La Paz out the window. Entering the platforms costs Bs. 2.50.
Other terminals serve specific regions:
- Terminal Provincial Minasa Yungas (Villa Fátima neighbourhood) — buses toward the Yungas and tropical lowlands, including Coroico, Chulumani, Irupana, Caranavi, Rurrenabaque, Riberalta and others. Coroico is served almost hourly; some longer-distance services leave later in the afternoon.
- Cementerio (north of the city cemetery) — departures and arrivals for Lake Titicaca destinations such as Copacabana, Sorata, Desaguadero and Tiwanaku.
- Río Seco (Terminal), El Alto — easily reached via the Línea Azul gondola and frequent trufi connections from the El Alto bus station or Ceja (Bs. 1). It also serves Lake Titicaca, Copacabana, Sorata, Desaguadero and Tiwanaku, and most minibuses to and from Cementerio pass by here too. Its advantage over Cementerio is that it sits outside the La Paz centre, saving travel time if you don't need to head downtown — handy for transferring between destinations without going into the city.
- El Alto bus station — less a station than an area where regional minibuses and servis depart for places like Quime and Patacamaya, and everything smaller south of La Paz. Ask around to find the right company office.