Getting oriented
Balvanera is a barrio of Buenos Aires, Argentina, sitting just to the west of the downtown district (el centro, which comprises San Nicolás and Montserrat). Its streets follow the same checkboard pattern found across most of the city, and most streets and avenues are one-way. The two main arteries are Rivadavia, which crosses the entire city from east to west, and Corrientes, the main thoroughfare of commerce and entertainment in Buenos Aires. North–south streets change their name when they cross Rivadavia, which is worth remembering when you give directions.
Because it is so close to downtown, Balvanera has access to diverse transportation options. The barrio is also known by several names depending on which part you are in: the area around Corrientes avenue is called Once, the south-eastern part is Congreso, and the north-western part is Abasto. If someone tells you to meet them in Once or Congreso, they mean Balvanera.
Walking
Balvanera is a good barrio to explore on foot, and walking is recommended here alongside areas such as San Telmo, Palermo Viejo/Soho, Recoleta and the microcentro. The grid layout makes it easy to navigate, and the neighbourhood is dense with shops, cafés, theatres and markets.
Two practical cautions: Plaza Miserere's green space is usually taken up by illegal peddlers, people queuing for their bus, and preachers of all stripes, so it can be crowded and chaotic rather than restful. And around Once station, the street outside the former República Cromagnon venue was closed on and off for several years as a memorial, severely disturbing car and bus traffic — a reminder that traffic in this area can be disrupted.
The Subte (metro)
Balvanera has access to five out of the six Subte lines, and the downtown area is a short subway trip from anywhere in the barrio. All intercity train stations are accessible from Balvanera by Subte, which makes it a convenient base if you plan to leave the city by rail.
The Subte was the first underground metro in Latin America. Its lines link the main avenues and the train and coach stations, and the central lines converge in the city centre. Trains run frequently — roughly every three to ten minutes — with service from around 5:30am to 11:30pm Monday to Friday, 6:00am to midnight on Saturdays, and 8:00am to 10:30pm on Sundays and public holidays. Stations have free WiFi. Expect crowding at peak times, roughly 8–9:30am and 5–7pm.
Buses and other public transport
The colectivo (also called the bondi) is the workhorse of Buenos Aires transport: cheap, running 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, and covering the whole city with stops within a few blocks almost everywhere. Many bus lines go through Balvanera. Among them is the Colectivo 60 line, venerated by locals as el internacional because its route passes many city landmarks; another important line is Colectivo 19.
When you board a bus, tell the driver your destination — name the nearest cross street — so the correct fare is selected.
Some main arteries have Metrobus, a bus rapid transit system with dedicated lanes; some of its stops offer free WiFi.
Around Plaza Once, numerous long-distance bus depots provide service to major locations in Argentina and beyond, so this is where you head for intercity coaches.
Trains are useful for reaching outer neighbourhoods and Buenos Aires Province — for example Tigre and the river delta. Train tickets can be paid in cash or with the SUBE card.
Tickets and the SUBE card
Buses and the Subte require the rechargeable SUBE travel card, which must be loaded with credit before you travel. You can pick one up at Subte stations, at eight Tourist Assistance Centers, and at many kioskos (corner shops). To top it up, use any Subte station, national lottery outlets, or kioskos equipped with automated terminals; the SUBE website has a vendor map.
Taxis, remises and ride-hailing
Licensed taxis in Buenos Aires are black and yellow and metered, with fares in Argentine pesos. You flag them on the right-hand side, and the "libre" sign is lit when the taxi is free. Directions are commonly given by cross street — for example, "Corrientes y Florida" — rather than by street number.
Remises are another option and can be booked in advance. There is also a BA Taxi e-hailing app if you prefer to arrange a ride from your phone.
If you want to drive yourself, car hire is available downtown and at both Ezeiza (Pistarini) and Aeroparque (Jorge Newbery) airports. Drivers must be over 21, have held a licence for at least two years, and pay by credit card.
Cycling
Buenos Aires has an extensive network of cycle lanes, and the city runs a free bike share scheme called Ecobici, which allows one hour of use on weekdays and two hours at weekends.
Getting in from the airport
Buenos Aires has two airports: Ezeiza (Ministro Pistarini) and Aeroparque (Jorge Newbery). Both have car hire desks, so renting a car is one way to reach the city. Otherwise, taxis, remises booked in advance, and the BA Taxi e-hailing app are the practical options for a direct trip into town. Once you are in the city, the Subte connects to the main train stations, and buses run around the clock, so onward travel from your arrival point is straightforward.
Practical summary
- Buy a SUBE card early — you need it for both buses and the Subte, and it must be loaded with credit.
- Top up at Subte stations, lottery outlets, or kioskos with automated terminals.
- Use the Subte for fast trips downtown and to reach intercity train stations; avoid the 8–9:30am and 5–7pm peaks if you can.
- Use colectivos for coverage almost everywhere, any hour of the day; tell the driver your cross street when boarding.
- Head to Plaza Once for long-distance coaches.
- Flag black-and-yellow taxis on the right, or book a remis or use the BA Taxi app.
- Walk the barrio — it is one of the recommended areas for exploring on foot — but expect crowds around Plaza Miserere and possible traffic disruption near Once station.