Balvanera

Introduction

Balvanera is a barrio of Buenos Aires, Argentina. It is one of the city's neighbourhoods, so you'll find it within the Argentine capital rather than as a separate destination.

Getting around

Balvanera sits just west of downtown and shares the city's checkerboard street pattern, with most streets and avenues running one-way. Rivadavia crosses the entire city from east to west, while Corrientes is the main thoroughfare for commerce and entertainment. North–south streets change their name when they cross Rivadavia, so keep that in mind when you give or follow directions. The barrio goes by different names depending on the part you're in: the area around Corrientes avenue is Once, the south-eastern part is Congreso, and the north-western part is Abasto — if someone tells you to meet them in Once or Congreso, they mean Balvanera. Walking is a good way to explore: the grid makes navigation easy, and the neighbourhood is dense with shops, cafés, theatres and markets. Two cautions: Plaza Miserere's green space is usually taken up by illegal peddlers, people queuing for buses and preachers, so it can be crowded and chaotic rather than restful, and around Once station the street outside the former República Cromagnon venue has been closed on and off as a memorial, severely disrupting car and bus traffic.

Balvanera has access to five of the six Subte lines, and downtown is a short subway trip from anywhere in the barrio; all intercity train stations are reachable by Subte, making the barrio a convenient base if you plan to leave the city by rail. Trains run frequently, roughly every three to ten minutes, with service from around 5:30am to 11:30pm Monday to Friday, 6:00am to midnight on Saturdays, and 8:00am to 10:30pm on Sundays and public holidays; stations have free WiFi, and crowding is likely at peak times, roughly 8–9:30am and 5–7pm. The colectivo (or bondi) is the workhorse of city transport — cheap, running 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, with stops within a few blocks almost everywhere. Many lines pass through Balvanera, among them Colectivo 60, known to locals as el internacional because its route passes many city landmarks, and Colectivo 19. When you board, tell the driver your destination by naming the nearest cross street so the correct fare is selected. Some main arteries have Metrobus, a bus rapid transit system with dedicated lanes, and some of its stops offer free WiFi. Around Plaza Once, numerous long-distance bus depots serve major destinations in Argentina and beyond. Trains are useful for reaching outer neighbourhoods and Buenos Aires Province, such as Tigre and the river delta, and train tickets can be paid in cash or with the SUBE card.

• Buses and the Subte require the rechargeable SUBE card, loaded with credit before you travel; pick one up at Subte stations, at Tourist Assistance Centers, and at many kioskos, and top it up at any Subte station, national lottery outlets, or kioskos with automated terminals.
• Licensed taxis are black and yellow and metered, flagged on the right-hand side; the "libre" sign is lit when the taxi is free. Give directions by cross street — for example, "Corrientes y Florida" — rather than by street number.
• Remises can be booked in advance, and the BA Taxi e-hailing app lets you arrange a ride from your phone.
• Car hire is available downtown and at both Ezeiza (Pistarini) and Aeroparque (Jorge Newbery) airports; drivers must be over 21, have held a licence for at least two years, and pay by credit card.
• Buenos Aires has an extensive network of cycle lanes, and the city runs a free bike share scheme called Ecobici, allowing one hour of use on weekdays and two hours at weekends.

Three days in Balvanera

Day one: Start in Balvanera itself, getting your bearings around Plaza Miserere and the Once neighbourhood, where the streets are busy with shoppers and traders. Walking is the best way to take in the character of the area, and you can use the Subte or the Metrobus to cover longer stretches. Note that some streets and businesses are quieter on Saturdays and Sundays, so plan your browsing accordingly. Around Plaza Once you'll find plenty of places to eat, and many cafés offer WiFi if you need to check a map or message home.

• Plaza Miserere and Once on foot
• Subte or Metrobus for longer hops
• Keep small change handy for Colectivo buses

Day two: Head toward Congreso and the Abasto area, both within Balvanera, to see a different side of the neighbourhood. Licensed taxis such as BA Taxi and Remises are useful for crossing town quickly, while the Colectivo and Subte remain the cheaper options; a SUBE card works across buses and trains. If you need help, Tourist Assistance Centers can point you in the right direction. Remember that many shops and attractions keep different hours on Mondays and Fridays, so check before setting out.

• Congreso and Abasto
• SUBE card for Colectivo, Subte and trains
• Tourist Assistance Centers for guidance

Day three: Use Balvanera as your base for a day trip, taking the trains toward Tigre in Buenos Aires Province for a change of scenery. Back in the city, wander along Rivadavia and Corrientes to see the neighbourhood's everyday rhythm, and stop for an Argentine meal or a coffee. If you're heading further afield, Florida is a central point for licensed taxis and remises. Give yourself time to return in the evening, when the area around Congreso and Once is at its liveliest.

• Trains to Tigre in Buenos Aires Province
• Rivadavia and Corrientes for a stroll
• Florida for licensed taxis and remises