Stand on the bridge in Athlone and the River Shannon runs beneath you, dividing the town between County Westmeath and County Roscommon. Look west and the castle keeps watch over the crossing; look north and the water opens toward Lough Ree.
Athlone suits travellers moving between Dublin and the west of Ireland, walkers and cyclists following the Greenway, and anyone interested in the town's role in the wars of the seventeenth century. This guide covers the sights and experiences worth your time, followed by a plan for a single day.
Top things to do in Athlone
1. Athlone Castle
Built for England's King John in 1210 and extended around 1276, the castle saw its heaviest fighting during the two seventeenth-century sieges of Athlone. Much of what stands today dates from rebuilding during the Napoleonic wars, and the tourist information centre is also here.
Allow time for the exhibitions on the sieges. It sits on Castle Street, a short walk from the river crossing and convenient to combine with the town's main streets.
2. Church of St Peter & Paul
This twin-towered Roman Catholic church on Barrack Street was built in the 1930s to replace an older, smaller church on the same site. Its stained glass windows come from the Harry Clarke workshop, and the building is emblematic of the town.
It stands beside the Luan Gallery, so the two are easily seen together.
3. Luan Gallery
A low-rise gallery on Elliot Road, where a modern wing joins a nineteenth-century former library. It shows contemporary work and admission is free.
Outside stands a bust of the tenor John McCormack, who was born in Athlone in 1884. A full-sized statue of him, unveiled in 2014, is outside the Civic Hall.
4. Athlone Canal park
The canal on the west side of town has been culverted and turned into a park. It was cut in 1757 as a work-around for the shallows and rapids on the Shannon, which could be forded but blocked navigation, and it served until the 1840s, when the main river was made navigable by a weir and locks.
It makes a quiet walk on the west bank, and pairs naturally with a look at the river crossing.
5. Coosan Point
This headland is where Lough Ree narrows into the Shannon flowing down through Athlone. With Killinure Point just north, it encloses three inner lakes whose sheltered waters are the main local base for water activities.
It is the closest spot for water sports on Lough Ree, so come here if you want to get onto the water rather than just look at it.
6. River cruises
Cruises start from the west bank quay by the bridge, heading upstream to Lough Ree and downstream to Clonmacnoise. Operators include The River Run, Viking Tours and Shannon Princess.
Boats passing through Athlone use the lock beside the weir, downstream of the current road bridge; the lock, weir and bridge were all built by the Shannon navigation commissioners in the 1840s.
7. The Greenway
The railway from Dublin to Galway originally ran via Mullingar and then west to Athlone along a branch that was abandoned and turned into a hiking and cycling trail. It starts northeast of the railway station along Ballymahon Road and runs on a firm paved surface.
Distances along the trail are 12 km to Moate, then 16 km to Castletown, then 11 km into Mullingar, so you can ride or walk as much or as little as suits your day.
8. Athlone's other churches
Beyond the Church of St Peter & Paul, several churches are worth a look: the Methodist church on Northgate, the Church of Ireland Athlone St Mary on Dublin Gate Street, St Anthony's in the Franciscan Friary just south, St Mary's further east, and Corpus Christi on the west side in Connaught Gardens.
They are spread across both banks, so group them with whatever else you are seeing on that side of the river.
9. Town architecture
The town's architecture is grouped along Church Street, Northgate Street and Pearse Street. On Northgate Street you can only peek into Court Devenish House and the abbey ruin.
This is a walk rather than a single stop, best folded into a wander between the castle and the river.
10. Railway architecture
The line to Galway sweeps across the Shannon on the north side of town on a fine bridge built in 1851. On the west bank stands the original railway station, a wide classical stone building now used as offices.
Athlone railway station itself opened on 3 October 1859, with services eastwards to Portarlington, Kildare and Dublin Heuston and westwards toward Galway and the Westport and Ballina lines.
11. Dean Crowe Theatre
The Dean Crowe Theatre is on Chapel Street, a block west of the castle. Two other venues, Athlone Little Theatre on St Mary's Place and Tonnta Street Theatre on Grace Park Road, round out the town's stages.
For what is on during your visit, read the Westmeath Independent or listen to ACR on 88.4 FM.
12. IMC Cinema
The IMC Cinema is in Golden Island Shopping Centre, useful for an evening when the weather turns.
It is an easy pairing with a day of walking around town, since the shopping centre is central.
13. Athlone Town AFC
Athlone Town AFC play soccer in the League of Ireland First Division, the Republic's second tier. The stadium is in Lissywollen, northeast of the town centre.
The playing season runs from March to November and matches are usually on Friday evening.
14. Golf
Athlone Golf Club is on the west shore of the lake at Hodson Bay. Mount Temple Golf and Country Club is east of town at Aghanasmore.
Both are outside the centre, so plan transport rather than expecting to walk from your hotel.
15. The Drama Festival
The Drama Festival takes place in early May. If your visit falls then, it is the clearest reason to build your trip around those dates.
Check the local listings for the programme once you arrive.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Athlone Castle on Castle Street, where the tourist information centre is also based, then walk to the Church of St Peter & Paul on Barrack Street and the adjoining Luan Gallery on Elliot Road, looking out for the John McCormack bust outside the gallery.
Afternoon: Cross to the west bank and walk the Athlone Canal park, then head to Coosan Point for the sheltered inner lakes and the headland where Lough Ree narrows into the Shannon. If you would rather be on the water, take a river cruise from the west bank quay by the bridge.
Evening: Return to the centre for a performance at the Dean Crowe Theatre on Chapel Street, or take in a film at the IMC Cinema in Golden Island Shopping Centre.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to see the Drama Festival?
It takes place in early May, so plan your visit around those dates if theatre is your priority.
Where do river cruises depart from?
Cruises start from the west bank quay by the bridge, heading upstream to Lough Ree and downstream to Clonmacnoise.
Can I walk or cycle out of Athlone?
Yes. The Greenway starts northeast of the railway station along Ballymahon Road and runs on a firm paved surface, with 12 km to Moate, then 16 km to Castletown, then 11 km into Mullingar.
Where can I find out what is on during my visit?
Read the Westmeath Independent or listen to ACR on 88.4 FM.
With the castle, the river and the Greenway all within reach, you have enough to start shaping your own itinerary for Athlone.