Stand at the entrance to Fort Jesus on Fort Jesus Road in the late afternoon, when the light comes off the harbour and the walls turn the colour of old coral, and you can trace the whole shape of Mombasa's story in one view: the Portuguese fort, the Swahili lanes of the Old Town behind it, and the creek beyond. The city rewards travellers who come for atmosphere and activity rather than a long list of monuments.
Mombasa suits visitors who are happy to walk, take matatus, hire a boat, and let a day fill up with forts, temples, markets, mangroves and wildlife rather than queueing for set-piece sights. The Wikivoyage guide notes that considering the city's action-filled history there are surprisingly few formal sights, and that nature and a range of activities are what make it interesting.
This guide covers the places within the city itself, with practical notes on when to go and what to combine. Sights further north, west and south are treated separately as onward trips.
Top things to do in Mombasa
1. Fort Jesus
Fort Jesus on Fort Jesus Road is the most popular destination in Mombasa and the natural starting point for a visit. Built between 1593 and 1596 by the Portuguese to protect the port against the Ottomans, it remained in military use for over three centuries and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011. Inside you will find torture rooms, cells and displays from the 16th century, plus a museum in part of the former prison cells.
Allow time for the collections, which include artifacts from Mombasa's period as a transit port for the slave trade, material from the Portuguese frigate Santo António de Tanna that sank in 1697, archaeological finds from the Kenyan coast, Arabic military equipment, musical instruments and cannons from the 18th and 19th centuries. In the small park next to the entrance there is a 105-mm cannon that belonged to the Imperial German Navy. It is open daily from 8:30AM to 6:30PM.
2. Old Town
The districts of Makadara and Mzizima along Tudor Creek north of Fort Jesus make up the original city. This is typical Swahili architecture with a much more peaceful ambience than the rest of Mombasa, and much of it has been converted into souvenir shops and restaurants, including artisanal stores selling silver jewellery and small furniture.
If you are worried about getting lost in the small streets or missing something, guides at the esplanade of Fort Jesus can show you around for Ksh 1000. A Sunday is a good day to explore, when much of the city is closed down. Combine it with the fort, which sits at its edge.
3. The tusks of Moi Avenue
The tusks on Moi Avenue near Uhuru Garden were built in 1956 to welcome Princess Margaret on her visit to Mombasa, and are now among the city's most characteristic landmarks. They stand at the entrance to the city and form an M, for Mombasa.
They are not made of ivory as is sometimes thought, but of steel. They are a quick stop rather than a long visit, and sit close to the downtown sights.
4. Haller Park
Haller Park on Malindi Road in Bamburi is a zoological garden of about 75 hectares, created in 1985 on the site of a former coral reef. Animals include giraffes, hippos, monkeys and reptiles.
The park's two famous animals are Owen and Mzee: a hippopotamus orphaned by the tsunami of 2004 and the tortoise that adopted the young hippo. The best time to visit is between 14:00 and 15:00, when the animals are fed, and guides speak English, Spanish, French and other languages. Watch out for the monkeys, which are numerous and appear friendly but do occasionally bite. It is open 8:30AM to 5:30PM.
5. Mamba Village & Lunar Park
Mamba Village on Links Road in Nyali is a park of 20 hectares whose principal attraction is a farm with around 10,000 crocodiles. There is horseback and camel riding, and the park also has a restaurant and a bar.
The best time to visit is around 5PM, when the crocodiles are fed. Next to the crocodile farm is a lunar park with several attractions for children. It is open daily from 7AM to 6PM.
6. Bamburi Forest Trails
Bamburi Forest Trails offers beautiful, mostly flat terrain for walking, cycling and running, with routes from 3.5 to 10 km marked by small coloured wooden arrows. There is a children's playground, a fitness trail, archery, a cycle track and vintage bicycles for hire.
It is a diverse ecosystem with flora, ponds, monkeys and butterflies, and it stays pleasantly cool in the shade of the trees. Note that plastic bottles are not allowed. It pairs well with Haller Park, which is in the same part of Bamburi.
7. Nguuni Sanctuary
Nguuni Nature Sanctuary lies 4 km from Lafarge Bamburi Cement on the Nguu Tatu Hills and is home to giraffes, elands, oryx, waterbucks, ostriches and many different birds. It is a good place to experience nature and a safari feeling on foot, and the wetlands with small lakes are interesting for bird watchers. Large doum palms crowned by leopard orchids are scattered across the grassland.
It is also a fine spot for an afternoon with friends or family, or a long walk followed by a sundowner. You can book the barbecue place for Ksh 2,000 for private parties, or hire a safari vehicle for Ksh 1,200 for one to one and a half hours of animal watching. Entrance is Ksh 500, and transport to the picnic area is Ksh 250. By public transport, take a matatu to Kiembeni and alight at Turkey base, then walk along Mwakirunge Road; the entrance sign is about 200 m from Kiembeni Road on the left.
8. Mangrove of Tudor Creek
It is possible to visit the mangrove forests of the Kombeni and Tsalu rivers, which form the Tudor Creek. To do this, ask a fisherman at Cape Kiberamni or Junda Creek to take you there.
Prices are negotiable, so agree them before you set out. This works best as a half-day outing rather than something to squeeze between other stops.
9. The Butterfly House
The Butterfly House is right next to Fort Jesus, so it is very easy to incorporate into a trip around the fort and Old Town, but it is also worth a visit on its own. Although small, it is packed with both beautiful and interesting creatures, and you can view butterflies from their larval stage to grown adults.
You will also see evidence of the slave trade and an amphitheatre that is being restored, and there is a nice view of the marina. There is a small shop on site.
10. Hindu temples (Mandirs)
Thanks to its Indian community, Mombasa has several Hindu temples to visit, and visitors are able to go inside accompanied by a guide from the temple. Inside there are artifacts, idols and cultural pictures and paintings.
Three are named in the guide: Shri Kutch Satsang Temple at the corner of Haile Selassie Avenue and Bajuni Road, constructed in 1957 and the oldest mandir of Swaminarayan Hinduism outside India; New Dwarikadham Temple on Beach Road in Nyali, a complex that serves the Krishna Consciousness community and includes a vegetarian restaurant; and Lord Shiva Temple on Mwenye Aboud Road, a Sikh temple worth visiting thanks to its gardens. Dress and behave respectfully, and accept the guidance offered at each site.
11. Fort St Joseph
Close to the golf course near Mama Ngina Drive, this ruin is probably the oldest fortress on the island built by Arabs, and it stood when Vasco da Gama first came to Mombasa. It is not really impressive in itself, but it is a nice viewpoint and worth a visit.
Treat it as a short stop rather than a destination, and combine it with a walk along Mama Ngina Drive.
12. Mbaraki Pillar
The Mbaraki Pillar is a historic tower monument made of coral stone, approximately 14 metres high, and is considered the second-oldest historic monument in Mombasa after Fort Jesus. The hollow tower is also known locally as Mnarani, meaning "place of the tower", and is a listed national monument.
An adjacent mosque dates back to the 15th century, while the tower itself is dated to around 1700. Unlike other pillar-like structures on the Swahili Coast, it is not a burial site, and its actual purpose remains a matter of historical debate. In local Swahili and Giriama culture the tower is regarded as the dwelling place of powerful spirits, and the site is still used for spiritual ceremonies; visitors offer incense, rose water or small food offerings to seek healing, fertility or protection. Approach quietly and respectfully.
13. Leven House
In the 19th century this building was the headquarters of the British Navy's anti-slavery campaigns in the region, and it is named after a British warship. It has since been used by missionaries, a shipping company and as a consulate.
There is a restaurant in the building, which makes it a convenient stop for a meal while you are exploring the waterfront and Old Town area.
14. Holy Ghost Cathedral
The neo-Gothic Holy Ghost Cathedral on Nyerere Avenue is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Mombasa and a visible landmark right in downtown. It is easy to work into a walk through the city centre.
Pair it with the tusks of Moi Avenue and the downtown streets, since all are close together.
15. Commonwealth War Cemetery Mbaraki
Mombasa was a military base during both world wars, and the Commonwealth War Cemetery on Mbaraki Road is one of two military cemeteries in the city. It is open daily from 6AM to 6PM.
It is a quiet stop, best combined with the nearby Mbaraki Pillar.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start early at Fort Jesus when it opens, and give the cells, museum and collections proper time. Walk straight from there into the Old Town districts of Makadara and Mzizima, and if you want orientation, hire one of the guides at the esplanade of Fort Jesus. Stop at the Butterfly House next to the fort before you leave the area.
Afternoon: Head to Moi Avenue to see the tusks near Uhuru Garden, then continue to Haller Park in Bamburi for the 14:00 to 15:00 animal feeding, keeping an eye out for the monkeys. If you have energy left, walk the marked routes at Bamburi Forest Trails nearby, remembering that plastic bottles are not allowed.
Evening: Go to Mamba Village in Nyali for around 5PM, when the crocodiles are fed, and stay for a meal at the restaurant or bar on site. If you would rather end the day quietly, take a walk in the Old Town instead, which is peaceful in the evening and good for souvenir shops and restaurants.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to see the animals being fed?
At Haller Park the best time to visit is between 14:00 and 15:00, when the animals are fed. At Mamba Village the best time is around 5PM, when the crocodiles are fed.
Can I visit the Hindu temples as a non-Hindu visitor?
Yes. Visitors are able to go inside accompanied by a guide from the temple, and inside there are artifacts, idols and cultural pictures and paintings.
How do I arrange a trip into the mangroves of Tudor Creek?
Ask a fisherman at Cape Kiberamni or Junda Creek to take you to the mangrove forests of the Kombeni and Tsalu rivers. Prices are negotiable.
Is the Old Town worth visiting on a Sunday?
Yes. It is a nice place to explore on a Sunday, when much of the city is closed down, and it has a much more peaceful ambience than the rest of Mombasa.
Decide which of these fits your days, check the opening times for Fort Jesus, Haller Park and Mamba Village, and start mapping your route across the island.