Mombasa
Introduction
You will find Mombasa situated along the Indian Ocean in southeastern Kenya. As the former capital of British East Africa before the rise of Nairobi, this coastal city carries a deep history as one of the country's oldest urban centers.
When you explore the Central Business District, you can see blue and white buildings that reflect the colors of the nearby ocean. The city now serves as the capital of Mombasa County.
Before you go
Prepare for a tropical climate where you will experience consistent temperatures year-round. As you explore this historic coastal destination, you can immerse yourself in a culture shaped by centuries of trade and diverse influences from the Arab world, Portugal, and Britain. The city is divided into four administrative areas; most activities and accommodations are concentrated on the island of Mvita or along the northern coast in Kisauni. While the cosmopolitan atmosphere of Mvita offers a unique cultural tapestry, be mindful that certain areas may have different safety profiles at night.
To ensure a smooth stay, keep these practical tips in mind:
- Use a taxi when visiting pubs or restaurants at night rather than walking or using motorbikes.
- Keep car doors locked at all times and avoid showing expensive electronics while walking to deter pickpockets.
- Ask for permission before taking photos of people and refrain from filming restricted sites such as banks, airports, or police stations.
- When dining on an outdoor terrace, choose a seat away from the road.
- Consult your hotel staff regarding safe areas to explore before heading out on your own.
Getting there
You can reach Mombasa via several modes of transport, as the city serves as a major hub for rail, road, and sea routes. If you prefer to fly, Moi International Airport offers direct flights from numerous European cities and regional destinations like Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar. Flights from Nairobi are brief, providing views of Tsavo East National Park. Alternatively, you can arrive by train; a modern railway connects the city to Nairobi in about five hours, while a local commuter line links the Mombasa Terminus to the central station.
For those traveling by land or sea, several options are available:
- If arriving from the south by road, you can cross the river via the Likoni Ferry.
- You may arrive by cruise ship or via private boat at various marinas located in Tudor Creek and Kilindini Harbour.
- While buses are primarily used for travel outside the city to destinations like Malindi or Dar es Salaam, they provide a connection from the capital.
- If you choose to drive, be prepared for local traffic culture and ensure you have an international driver's license.
Getting around
Navigating the local traffic can feel chaotic, as rules are often disregarded even in the presence of police. You can choose from several modes of transport depending on your preference for comfort and safety. For a local experience, matatus (minivans) operate throughout the city; however, these vehicles are often crowded with passengers. If you prefer more adventurous options, you can hire a tuk-tuk or a boda-boda, though the latter is considered a dangerous way to travel.
For more reliable transport, you can opt for official or unofficial taxis, which identify themselves with license papers on the windshield rather than roof signs. To avoid being overcharged by drivers who target tourists, consider using shuttle services like Uber, Taxify, Little, Mondo Ride, or MaraMoja to secure fares online. Alternatively, shared taxis offer door-to-door service between specific coastal locations. If you prefer to have your own vehicle, you can rent a car with or without a driver; if choosing a driver for a long period, ensure you take a test ride first to confirm they are familiar with the city's layout.
Where to stay
While few travelers stay within the city center, you can find a wide range of accommodations along the north and south coasts, ranging from campsites to backpacker hostels, hotels, and villas. For those seeking budget-friendly options, several hostels offer dormitories and camping sites with amenities like swimming pools and free Wi-Fi in areas such as Nyali and Diani Beach. You can also find guest houses providing basic comforts like fans and breakfast in the city center.
If you prefer mid-range to high-end accommodations, the coastal neighborhoods of Kisauni and Mvita offer extensive options. In Mvita, you can choose from hotels featuring various cuisines, fitness centers, or those with a colonial ambiance. The beaches of Nyali, Bamburi, and Shanzu are home to large resorts equipped with multiple pools, spas, and organized water activities like diving and snorkeling. For a more private experience, apartments and villas are available in the Kisauni area, providing spacious accommodations with full kitchens.
Food & drink
Experience a cosmopolitan culinary scene where Arabic, Chinese, European, and Indian influences shape the local flavors. You can sample traditional dishes featuring coconut milk, such as basmati rice known as waly ya tui, chicken prepared as kuku wa kupaka, or aromatic mahamri donuts flavored with cardamom. For those seeking specific cuisines, you can find Indian and Asian dishes in the city, while other spots specialize in Japanese cuisine, Chinese house specialties, or local East African barbecue and meat dishes.
Depending on your preference for atmosphere, you can choose from various dining environments:
- Enjoy a meal overlooking the creek in the old town or find seafood and fish at venues situated along the coast.
- Visit beachside locations to find casual eateries serving local cuisine.
- Explore vibrant nightlife in Mombasa Town and Mtwapa, where you can find open-air bars, clubs with multiple dance floors, and beachside bars.
- Savor specialty drinks like Arabic teas and coffees served hot or cold, or choose from a variety of cocktails while dining on a dhow cruising along the creek.
What to see and do
Explore the historic heart of the city by visiting Fort Jesus, a prominent fortress featuring 16th-century artifacts, former prison cells, and an array of cannons. Nearby, you can visit the Butterfly House to see various insects in different life stages or wander through the Old Town districts of Makadara and Mzizima. These areas offer a peaceful atmosphere with Swahili architecture, artisanal shops selling silver jewelry and furniture, and local restaurants. For a unique perspective on the city's history, you can view the steel tusks on Moi Avenue—a distinctive landmark—or visit the 19th-century Leven House and the neo-Gothic Holy Ghost Cathedral.
Experience the local culture by visiting various Hindu temples, including the Shri Kutch Satsang Temple or the New Dwarikadham Temple. Nature lovers can explore the mangrove forests of Tudor Creek via a boat trip with a fisherman, or visit Haller Park to see giraffes and hippos. For an active day, you can cycle through the shaded paths of Bamburi Forest Trails or enjoy a safari-like experience on foot at Nguuni Sanctuary. If you prefer coastal activities, you can take camel rides on the beaches of Kisauni or rent bikes on Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach.
- Fort Jesus
- Butterfly House
- Old Town (Makadara and Mzizima)
- The tusks of Moi Avenue
- Leven House
- Holy Ghost Cathedral
- Hindu temples (Mandirs)
- Tudor Creek mangroves
- Haller Park
- Nguuni Sanctuary
- Bamburi Forest Trails
- Mamba Village & Lunar Park
- Krapf Memorial
- Commonwealth War Cemeteries
When to go
You will experience a tropical climate in Mombasa characterized by consistent heat throughout the year. If you prefer warmer conditions, you can visit during the hot season from January through March.
The region experiences two distinct rainy periods. You can expect heavy rains during the major rain season from mid-April to late May, while October and November bring a minor wet season with lighter rainfall.
Three days in Mombasa
Day one, you arrive at Moi International Airport and begin your journey through the coastal atmosphere of Mombasa. You can explore the historic streets of the Central Business District or head toward the waterfront to see the activity near Tudor Creek and Kilindini Harbour.
Day two, you travel toward the coastlines of Mvita and Kisauni. You can spend your time near the Indian Ocean, experiencing the maritime character of the region as you navigate the local surroundings.
Day three, you can plan a trip further along the coast toward Malindi or consider an excursion to Tsavo East National Park. Alternatively, you can take a ride to nearby destinations like Dar Salaam or Zanzibar.