Stand at the northern end of the Marina Beach in Central Chennai just before sunrise and you will see the sand already busy: walkers, vendors setting out, the first light coming up over the Bay of Bengal. That stretch of coast is the simplest introduction to a city that works best when you take it at an unhurried pace.
Chennai suits travellers who are happy to plan around heat and humidity, who like their sightseeing mixed with food, music and long evening strolls, and who do not mind crowds. It is a major centre for music, art and dance, and it has a well-developed infrastructure that makes getting around straightforward.
This guide covers the sights and experiences worth building a day around, followed by a one-day plan and answers to the questions visitors ask most often.
Top things to do in Chennai
1. Marina Beach
Marina Beach in Central Chennai is the second-longest beach in the world after Cox's Bazar in Bangladesh, and it is the city's default gathering place. Come in the evening for a stroll between 7PM and 9PM, when locals pack dinner and picnic on the sand.
Note that beyond 10PM no one is permitted on the beach, and police on the beach sometimes move people along by 9PM. If you are an early riser, the 6AM to 8AM window gives you a wonderful sunrise and a slight breeze, though dogs lie all over the place and stray cricket balls are a genuine hazard.
2. Kapaleeshwarar Temple and Mylapore
Take a bus or an auto to Mylapore Tank and walk around Mylapore, especially in and around the Kapaleeshwarar Temple. The crowds, sounds, fragrances of temple incense and flowers and the tiny shops are the point of the visit.
Keep away on Fridays, when it gets too hectic even for experienced Mylaporeans. Pair the walk with the tank area, which is the natural starting point for the neighbourhood.
3. Elliots Beach (Besant Nagar)
Elliots Beach in Besant Nagar is the other beach worth planning an evening around. Like Marina, it is best enjoyed as a night stroll between 7PM and 9PM, and the same rules apply: no one is permitted on the beach beyond 10PM, and police may shoo people out by 9PM.
Pack dinner and have a picnic on the beach as most locals do. If you are driving, consider taking along a few foldable chairs.
4. Guindy National Park
Chennai is home to Guindy National Park, the smallest national park in India. It is the obvious choice when you want a break from the streets and the heat without leaving the city.
Because summers become too hot and humid to venture out during the day, treat this as an early-morning stop and keep the rest of the day for indoor or evening plans.
5. Pondy Bazaar and Ranganathan Street
Stroll along the overcrowded Pondy Bazaar and Ranganathan Street and try your skills at bargaining for knick-knacks. This is shopping as a contact sport rather than a quiet browse.
Be warned that it is an intensely crowded place where you have to elbow your way through. Go with patience and a clear idea of what you want.
6. Carnatic music and Bharatanatyam performances
Chennai is a major centre of Bharatanatyam, with over 1,000 dance performances a year, and it is famous for concerts and performances in various auditoriums and temples throughout the year. Other forms such as Kuchipudi and Mohini Attam are also taught and encouraged.
Performances are announced in The Hindu and other local newspapers. During the Tamil month of Maargazhi, from December to January, there is a series of classical Carnatic music concerts and classical dance performances in various parts of the city, with the best organised in various Sabhas. Free entry passes are usually given out for debutante performances, called Arangetram, and for performances held on weekdays before 4PM when the crowd starts filling up.
7. A Tamil film in a Chennai cinema
When in Chennai, do not miss a chance to watch a movie. There are several new Tamil movie releases every Friday or to coincide with holidays, and films in Hindi, Kannada, Telugu and Malayalam also get wide releases.
Book your tickets in advance, especially for the weekend, because most of the cinemas will be sold out. Chennai also provides the best cinematic experience at the lowest cost, at ₹120 and less. Check any local newspaper or website to see what is running.
8. Cricket at MA Chibandrum Stadium, Chepauk
Chennai has the MA Chibandrum Stadium, an international venue for cricket and home ground for the Chennai Super Kings. Catching a game is a way to see the city at full volume.
Chepauk is also home to the Chepauk Super Gilles in the Tamil Nadu Premier League. Close to Chepauk there are several sporting goods stores where you can buy good quality cricket equipment at low prices.
9. Chennai Book Fair
If you happen to be in Chennai in January, the Chennai Book Fair is an event not to miss, though the location and dates may vary annually. Plan to visit on a weekday as they attract lesser crowds, and you can browse through the collections peacefully.
If you pick a weekend or holiday, visit in the morning instead of the evening. Skip the marquee stalls and visit the smaller ones, which have books stacked all around and lesser-known but excellent titles from all around the world. Carry cash, as many of the smaller shops do not accept cards, and cash also helps to bargain down the price. On average, paperback novels in bargain shops cost ₹100 to ₹200.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start early at Marina Beach, arriving around 6AM to catch the sunrise and the breeze before the heat builds. From there, take a bus or an auto to Mylapore Tank and walk around Mylapore and the Kapaleeshwarar Temple, keeping in mind that Fridays are especially hectic.
Afternoon: Move indoors for a Tamil film at a Chennai cinema, booking your ticket in advance because weekend shows sell out. If it is January and the Chennai Book Fair is on, a weekday afternoon there is a quieter alternative, and smaller stalls reward browsing with cash in hand.
Evening: Head to Elliots Beach in Besant Nagar for a stroll between 7PM and 9PM, packing dinner for a picnic on the sand as locals do. Remember that no one is permitted on the beach beyond 10PM, and police may move people along by 9PM.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time of day to visit the beaches?
During summer it becomes too hot and humid to venture out during the day, so the evening window of 7PM to 9PM is best for Marina Beach and Elliots Beach. Early risers can go between 6AM and 8AM for a wonderful sunrise and a slight breeze, though dogs lie all over the place and you have a high chance of getting hit by a cricket ball if you are not looking.
Can I stay on the beach late at night?
No. Beyond 10PM no one is permitted to be on the beach, and there are policemen on the beach to ensure people follow this rule. On some occasions they tend to shoo people out by 9PM.
When can I see classical music and dance in Chennai?
Concerts and performances take place in various auditoriums and temples throughout the year, announced in The Hindu and other local newspapers. The densest season is the Tamil month of Maargazhi, from December to January, when a series of classical Carnatic music concerts and classical dance performances runs across the city, with the best organised in various Sabhas. Free entry passes are usually given out for debutante performances and for weekday performances before 4PM.
Do I need to book cinema tickets in advance?
Yes, especially for the weekend, because most of the cinemas will be sold out. New Tamil releases come out every Friday or to coincide with holidays, and films in other Indian languages and dubbed Hollywood titles also get wide releases.
Pick your season, sketch out a morning at the beach and an evening in Mylapore, and start planning your trip to Chennai.