Stand on the ramparts of Junagarh Fort and the city below you is a tight weave of flat rooftops, red sandstone and desert haze. Bikaner grew where spring water made an oasis on the old trade route across the Thar, and its palaces and havelis were paid for by merchants and rulers who wanted that wealth to be visible.
The city suits travellers who prefer architecture, craft and desert food to beach resorts, and who are willing to plan around extreme heat and cold. This guide covers the sights and experiences named in the source material, with practical notes on how to combine them.
Top things to do in Bikaner
1. Junagarh Fort
Junagarh Fort, also called Bikaner Fort, was built by Raja Rai Singh, the sixth ruler of Bikaner, who reigned from 1571 to 1612. It is a fort of the Bikaner royal family, and inside you can follow the history of that family through its palaces and halls, including the Karan Mahal, the Anup Mahal, the Chandra Mahal and the Badal Mahal, the weather palace named for a painting of clouds and falling rain. The fort also has a museum displaying weapons and ornaments of the previous era.
Set aside a proper half day here rather than treating it as a quick stop, since the palace complex is the core of any visit to the city. Combine it with the old city around it, and go early in the day when the heat is at its mildest.
2. Jain Temple Bhandasar
This is an ornate two-storied Jain temple, with vibrantly adorned paintings worked with gold leaf patterns. Marble pillars bear floral arabesques, and the multi-coloured walls and floors are the reason many visitors rate it so highly. It is visited by devotees daily and is worth the visit on those grounds alone.
Because it is an active place of worship, time your visit around the quieter parts of the day and dress accordingly. It pairs naturally with a walk through the old city streets nearby.
3. Karni Mata Temple
Located at Deshnok, 32 kilometres from Bikaner, this is the temple of the local deity Karni Mata, who is believed to have taken care of the Rajputana family. The temple has a rat infestation, but the locals believe the rats to be holy. You will likely be told that seeing a certain white rat is very auspicious, though if you press further most locals will tell you there is always one or two visible around the temple.
Be careful while walking inside the temple, as you might accidentally step on a rat. Treat it as a half-day trip out of the city rather than something to squeeze between two city sights.
4. Lalgarh
Lalgarh is another fort of the Rajputana family, and some of the Rajputana kings used to stay here. You will see the royal story of the Rajputana family told through the building. It sits opposite the Roadways bus stand, which makes it straightforward to reach.
Its position near the bus stand makes it a sensible first or last stop if you are arriving or leaving by road. The royal family of Bikaner still lives in a suite in Lalgarh Palace, which they have converted into a heritage hotel, so expect a working palace rather than a bare monument.
5. Laxmi Niwas Palace
The Laxmi Niwas Palace is a former residential palace of Maharajah Ganga Singh, king of the former Bikaner state. It was designed by the British architect Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob in 1902, completed in 1926, and it is part of Lalgarh palace. The style of architecture is Indo-Saracenic, and it is now a luxury hotel.
Visit it as an architectural companion to Lalgarh rather than as a separate excursion, since the two are connected. If you are not staying there, plan your look at the building around the hours when guests are coming and going.
6. Gajner Palace
Gajner Palace sits at Gajner, near Bikaner, built on the embankment of a lake. It was built by H.H. Maharaja Sir Ganga Singhji of Bikaner and was used as a hunting resort by the former Maharajas and visiting British dignitaries during the days of the Raj. It is a Grand Heritage property.
Because it lies outside the city, treat it as a trip in its own right and pair it with the surrounding countryside rather than trying to bolt it onto a city day. The lake setting makes it a natural stop for birdlife, and the wider area includes Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary, 32 km west of Bikaner.
7. Rampuriya Haveli
Rampuriya Haveli was built by Balujee Chalva, commissioned by the rich merchant Rampuria family, and represents the opulence and architectural splendour of Bikaner. Flowers, birds and animals carved in red sandstone almost come alive on its facade. These homes are more than 400 years old.
Look at the carving closely and at eye level as well as from the street, since the detail is the point. It fits neatly into a walk through the merchant quarters of the old city.
8. Shivbari Temple
Shivbari Temple, also known as Shivbari Shivji Mandir, is a centuries-old Shiva temple at Shivbari choraha. It has two huge bawris, or water reservoirs, and thousands of people visit the place every year. The Shiv Bari Park partially surrounds the temple.
The reservoirs and the park setting make this a calmer stop than the busier sights, so it works well at the end of a day of walking. Remember that it is a working temple and behave accordingly.
9. Bishnoi Camel Safaris
Bishnoi Camel Safaris is a project to save camels through tourism. It has contacts with grassroots camel men and provides fair prices to them. Camels have been the beauty of the Thar Desert but are at the verge of ending due to machines, since they are not economically viable and have to compete with machines for survival. Bishnoi camel safaris has taken the initiative to change this.
Book ahead rather than turning up and hoping, and ask what the ride involves so you know how much time to allow. This is the way to see the desert that surrounds the city rather than only its buildings.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Junagarh Fort, where the palaces and the museum of weapons and ornaments will take a good part of the morning. Walk from there into the old city to see Rampuriya Haveli and its red sandstone carving while the light is still low.
Afternoon: Visit Jain Temple Bhandasar, then continue to Shivbari Temple and its two bawris. If time allows, add Lalgarh opposite the Roadways bus stand and the adjoining Laxmi Niwas Palace, since the two are part of the same complex.
Evening: Finish with Bikaneri bhujia and other local food, or arrange a camel ride with Bishnoi Camel Safaris if you have booked in advance. Gajner Palace and Karni Mata Temple at Deshnok both lie outside the city and need their own half day, so save them for a longer stay.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time of year to visit Bikaner?
Bikaner has a hot desert climate with very infrequent monsoonal rainfall and extreme temperatures. In summer temperatures can exceed 48 °C, and during the winter they may dip below freezing, so plan your clothing and daily rhythm around whichever season you choose.
What local food should I try in Bikaner?
The city is known for its savoury snack Bikaneri bhujia, which also has a geographical indication tag to keep its originality intact. Other special food items for which Bikaner is well known include Bajre ki Roti, a chapati made up of pearl millet flour.
Which sights lie outside the city itself?
Karni Mata Temple is located at Deshnok, 32 kilometres from Bikaner, and Gajner Palace is at Gajner, near Bikaner. Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary is 32 km west of Bikaner. Each of these needs its own half day rather than a slot between city sights.
Can I arrange a camel ride?
Yes. Bishnoi Camel Safaris is a project to save camels through tourism, with contacts with grassroots camel men, and it provides fair prices to them. Contact details are available through the operator.
Work out which of these fit your days, check the seasons against your travel dates, and start planning your trip to Bikaner.