Bikaner

Introduction

Located in the Thar Desert region of western Rajasthan, Bikaner offers a rich historical landscape as the former capital of the princely Bikaner State. You can explore a city founded by a Rajput chief of the Rathore dynasty, which has evolved from its modest beginnings into a significant administrative center for the district and division.

The development of the region was supported by the construction of both the Ganga Canal and the Indira Gandhi Canal, providing essential resources to this desert destination.

Before you go

Prepare for your visit by understanding the local context and cultural nuances of the region.

Getting there

You can reach Bikaner by air via daily flights arriving from cities such as Delhi and Jaipur. For those traveling by rail, the city is accessible from several major Indian towns including Mumbai, Agra, Delhi, and Jaipur.

Road travel offers multiple routes to the city; you can travel from Delhi via Shekawati or from Jaipur, Jaisalmer, and Jodhpur. While the highways are of high quality, be aware that country roads in the Shekawati region may be less ideal. You can arrange for a chauffeur-driven car through various tour operators or rental services in Delhi to transport you to the city or for sightseeing tours.

Getting around

You can navigate the city streets using three-wheeler autos. Because the roads are narrow and frequently busy, these vehicles are the primary mode of transport to avoid congestion caused by sand during frequent summer storms.

Where to stay

You can choose from various accommodations that reflect the royal heritage of Bikaner. For a high-end experience, stay in a palace where attentive staff provide pampered service and include breakfast with your stay. If you prefer a more tranquil atmosphere, find lodging in a calm residential area featuring spacious rooms with attached baths and large open courtyards and terraces.

For those seeking historical depth, stay in a century-old former royal residence. These accommodations offer air-conditioned rooms with terrace access, swimming pools, and evening performances by Rajasthani folk singers and dancers. You can also find government guest house options for your stay in the city.

Food & drink

Explore the local flavors by visiting Bhujia Bazaar or stopping at Chai Patti, where you can enjoy traditional snacks like Kachoris and Samosas. For a savory treat, visit Chhappan Bhog to sample their Rajkachori, Rava Dosa served with fresh coconut chutney, or Indian-Chinese Chowmein.

If you have a sweet tooth, head to Sankhla Kesar Kulfi to enjoy refreshing and cool Kesar kulfi. You can also find local offerings at Hiralal located near the railway station.

What to see and do

Explore the architectural grandeur of Bikaner by visiting the Junagarh Fort, where you can learn about the history of the royal family and view an exhibition of historical weapons and ornaments. Nearby, the Rampuriya Haveli showcases the opulence of the region with intricate carvings of birds and animals in red sandstone. You can also experience the ornate interior of the two-storied Jain Temple Bhandasar, featuring gold leaf patterns and marble pillars, or visit the Indo-Saracenic Laxmi Niwas Palace. For a glimpse into local heritage, explore the Lalgarh fort or the centuries-old Shivbari Temple, which features two large water reservoirs.

Travel beyond the city center to see the Gajner Palace, a grand heritage property situated on a lake in the Thar Desert. In the nearby village of Deshnok, you can visit the Karni Mata Temple, where local tradition holds the resident rats as holy and considers sightings of white rats particularly auspicious. To experience the desert landscape while supporting conservation efforts, you can join a camel safari designed to protect these animals from the pressures of modernization.

When to go

You should plan your visit during the cool season to enjoy much more comfortable conditions. While the desert environment experiences extreme heat in the summer, the winter months bring fairly cold temperatures that provide a sharp contrast to the intense heat of the preceding months.

The monsoon months contain nearly all of the year's rainfall, though you should expect it to be sparse and fall only on a handful of days. You may want to avoid the pre-monsoon summer, as temperatures rise into a very hot range that makes for an intensely uncomfortable time to explore.

Day one, you begin your journey in the heart of Bikaner. You can explore the local flavors of Bhujia Bazaar where you can sample traditional snacks like Kachoris and Samosas. To cool off after your walk, find a spot to enjoy some Sankhla Kesar Kulfi.

Day two, you travel toward the historic architecture of the region. You can visit Junagarh Fort to experience the heritage of the Rajput and Rathore dynasties. While exploring these sites, you can sample local favorites such as Rajkachori or Rava Dosa.

Day three, you take in the surrounding landscape of Rajasthan. You can reflect on your travels through Bikaner State while enjoying a variety of dishes like Chhappan Bhog or Chinese Chowmein at Hiralal.