Stand at the top of Radićeva street and the Old Town Gate opens off the lane in front of you, candles burning behind the iron grille. A few steps uphill, St. Mark's Square lays out the tiled roof of St. Mark's Church, and the whole medieval core of the city sits within a few minutes' walk.
Zagreb suits travellers who like a compact old town they can cover on foot, with museums, squares and parks close enough to string together in a single day. The city divides into Gornji Grad (Upper Town), the medieval core, and Donji Grad (Lower Town), where most of the restaurants, bars and sights sit between Jelačić Square and the railway station.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, with a one-day plan at the end. Note that several historical buildings were damaged in the March 2020 earthquake and remain closed until repairs are finished, and that most museums close at 13:00 on Sundays and do not reopen until Tuesday.
Top things to do in Zagreb
1. St. Mark's Square
St. Mark's Church, constructed in 1499, is known for its colourful roof tiles depicting the coat of arms of Croatia and Zagreb. The square is the heart of the Upper Town and free to visit.
Combine it with the Sabor Palace on the east side of the square, the seat of the Croatian Parliament, and with the Old Town Gate a short walk downhill.
2. Old Town Gate
At the top of Radićeva street, the Old Town Gate is now a shrine to the Virgin Mary, the "Kamenita vrata", where you can light a candle and, as the locals believe, your wish will be granted. The portrait of Mary is said to be sacred because it is the only thing that survived the large fire.
Keep silent, even if just passing through. Near the gate is the sculpture of St. George having slain the dragon; the companion statue of him fighting the dragon stands on Marshal Tito's Square near the Croatian National Theatre.
3. Lotrščak Tower
By the top of the funicular, the tower offers great local views if you are prepared to climb the spiral staircase. Since 1 January 1877, the Grič cannon fires daily from the Lotrščak Tower on Grič to mark midday.
Pair the climb with the Grič Tunnel, whose east entrance is by Katarina Square.
4. Grič Tunnel
A 450-m-long pedestrian tunnel built as a bomb shelter, sometimes used for concerts, and free to walk through. Its east entrance is by Katarina Square and its west entrance near the intersection of Mescnička ulica and Strelačka ulica.
Use it as a shortcut across the Upper Town rather than a destination in itself.
5. Museum of Broken Relationships
The permanent display is an opportunity to experience a unique emotional journey through dozens of love leftovers collected from all around the world. The museum won the Kenneth Hudson Award 2011 for the most innovative museum in Europe.
It is at Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2. Hours run 09:00–21:00 October to May and 09:00–22:30 June to September.
6. Zagreb Cathedral
The cathedral with its twin spires is the most well known landmark of the city. The original dates back to 1217, while the present structure dates to 1906, with Hermann Bollé as chief architect.
It is closed due to March 2020 earthquake damage, so check before planning around it. It stands in Kaptol, next to Ribnjak Park.
7. Ribnjak Park
Next to Zagreb Cathedral in Kaptol, Ribnjak is an English-style park complete with exotic plants, sculptures and a children's playground. The park used to be the site of the Bishop's fish pond.
It makes an easy breather between the cathedral and the Upper Town.
8. St. Catherine's Church
A Baroque-style church on St. Catherine's Square in the Upper Town. The Jesuits came to Zagreb at the invitation of the Croatian Parliament and built the church between 1620 and 1632, along with a monastery and the first grammar school.
It sits close to the funicular and the Old Town Gate, so fold it into an Upper Town walk.
9. Klovićevi Dvori Gallery
Housed in the old Jesuit monastery, the gallery stages changing exhibitions introducing Croatian and foreign cultural and artistic heritage across all eras. In most exhibitions, photography without flash is permitted.
It is at Jezuitski trg 4, close to the funicular and the Old Town Gate. It is closed Mondays and holidays, and bus line 150 runs from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića except on Sundays.
10. Zagreb City Museum
The permanent collection tells the history of the city, with temporary exhibitions alongside. It is at Opatička 20, reachable by bus 150.
It is closed Mondays, and open Tuesday to Saturday 10:00–18:00 and Sunday 10:00–14:00.
11. Museum of Hangovers
A specialty museum about nightlife culture and hangovers, with interactive exhibits and a short visit of 45–60 minutes. It is at Vlaška 55, about a 5–7 minute walk east from Ban Jelačić Square.
Its short format makes it easy to slot in between Lower Town sights.
12. Botanical Gardens
The gardens hold an arboretum, greenhouses, Croatian flora, rock gardens, annuals, perennials and a few animals. They are at Trg Marka Marulića 9A, west of the main railway station, served by tram lines 2, 4 and 9.
Hours are Monday and Tuesday 10:00–14:00 and Wednesday to Sunday 12:00–17:30.
13. King Tomislav Square
South of Zrinjevac and just outside the main railway station, the square is decorated with floor beds and fountains and lined with trees, dominated by a horse-mounted statue of King Tomislav.
It is a natural first stop if you arrive by train, and connects onward to Zrinjevac Square.
14. Zrinjevac Square
Just southeast of the main square, this is the park of the Academy, connecting the Zrinjevac and Tomislav parks. It forms part of the Lenuci Horseshoe, the unfinished project of combining small green squares and parks at the core of the centre of the town.
Walk it as a continuous line of green rather than a single stop.
15. Republic of Croatia Square
At the northwestern corner of the Lenuci Horseshoe, this is one of the largest and greenest squares of Zagreb, with the Croatian National Theatre in its centre.
Combine it with Strossmayer Square, the central position of the eastern wing of the Horseshoe.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Ban Jelačić Square and walk up Radićeva street to the Old Town Gate, then on to St. Mark's Square for St. Mark's Church and the Sabor Palace. Continue to St. Catherine's Church and the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, then climb the Lotrščak Tower for the views and pass through the Grič Tunnel.
Afternoon: Head down to the Lower Town. Take in the Museum of Broken Relationships, then walk the Lenuci Horseshoe squares: Zrinjevac Square, King Tomislav Square and Republic of Croatia Square. If time allows, add the Botanical Gardens or the Zagreb City Museum.
Evening: Return to the Upper Town for Zagreb Cathedral and a quiet turn through Ribnjak Park, or stay in the Lower Town around Ban Jelačić Square, where most of the restaurants and bars are located.
Frequently asked questions
Are any major sights closed at the moment?
Yes. Zagreb Cathedral and the Mimara Museum are closed due to March 2020 earthquake damage, and the Art Pavilion in Zagreb is temporarily closed since the 2020 earthquake. Several historical buildings sustained damage and are closed until repairs are finished.
When do museums close in Zagreb?
Most museums and historical sights close at 13:00 on Sundays and do not reopen until Tuesday. The Zagreb City Museum, for example, is closed on Mondays.
How do I get around the main sights?
The city is divided into Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town), where most of the restaurants, bars and tourist sights are located. The Upper Town is the medieval core, and the city expanded south of Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića to the railway station and the Sava River. Bus line 150 serves the Upper Town from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, except on Sundays.
What is the best way to see the parks?
Several city parks are connected in the Lenuci Horseshoe, an unfinished project of combining small green squares and parks at the core of the centre of the town. Walk the squares in sequence, from Strossmayer Square through Zrinjevac Square and King Tomislav Square to Republic of Croatia Square.
Pick your dates, check the closure notices, and start laying out your days around the Upper Town and the Lenuci Horseshoe.