Zagreb
Introduction
You will find Zagreb in the northern region of Croatia, situated along the Sava River and nestled against the southern slopes of the Medvednica mountain. Located near the international border between Croatia and Slovenia, the city offers a central location within the country's landscape.
Before you go
You can expect a safe experience in the city center where most restaurants and hotels are located, though you should exercise common sense as you would in any European capital. While pickpocketing is uncommon, you may encounter beggars on the street; simply ignoring them will cause them to move on. Be extra cautious when near the main railway station. To ensure a smooth trip, you can find information at the Tourist Information Centre on Ban Jelačić Square or at various points located at the airport, bus station, and railway station.
To stay safe during your visit, follow these guidelines:
- Avoid poorly lit alleys, parks at night, and certain less-developed neighborhoods.
- Steer clear of Ribnjak after dark, as it becomes a meeting place for subcultures where violence can occur.
- When traveling on trams or in the streets at night, avoid rowdy groups of young people to prevent being targeted by unprovoked attacks.
- Avoid strip clubs entirely, as these establishments are often run by shady characters who may overcharge guests.
- Stay away from nightclubs playing "Turbo-folk" music, where violence can erupt easily.
Getting there
When arriving at Franjo Tuđman Airport, you can reach the city center via several transportation options. Shuttle buses depart from the airport and run frequently during the day, with additional departures timed to coincide with Croatia Airlines arrivals. Alternatively, you can take a local ZET bus or opt for a taxi, Bolt, or Uber service. The airport itself provides amenities such as a restaurant, cafe, bars, and various banking and currency services.
If you prefer rail travel, the central railway station is located in a neo-classical building featuring luggage lockers and nearby tram stops. International trains connect Zagreb to cities like Ljubljana, Vienna, and Budapest, while domestic lines serve regional destinations such as Rijeka and Split. For those arriving by coach, the main bus terminal offers 24/7 luggage storage and a dedicated lounge area for travelers. If you are driving, the city serves as a major hub where several motorways converge, providing access to various regions including the Dalmatian coast, Slovenia, and neighboring countries.
Getting around
You can navigate the city using an efficient public transport system consisting of trams, buses, and trains. The tram network operates around the clock, with specific day-time lines and a selection of night lines that provide frequent service. For a unique experience, you can ride the historic funicular railway between the lower and upper towns; this steep, short journey takes just one minute. Buses complement the tram network by providing coverage to areas outside the city center and into neighboring towns. To plan your journeys, you can use the official ZET app, Google Maps, or the Easyway journey planner.
When traveling by foot, you will find the city compact and easy to explore. The lower town (Donji Grad) features several squares and a botanical garden, while the upper town (Gornji Grad) contains the cathedral and main square. For those preferring wheels, trains connect the suburbs with the central railway station, and bicycles are available through various rental options across the city. You can purchase paper tickets or electronic chip cards at newsstands and kiosks, which is more convenient than buying from drivers. Alternatively, you can use the MOJ ZET app to purchase and activate tickets on your smartphone. If you plan to visit many museums, the Zagreb Card offers unlimited travel on public transport as well as various discounts at local establishments.
Where to stay
Choose from a variety of accommodations that suit your travel style and location preferences. If you prefer a social atmosphere, several hostels are available in the city centre or nearby areas. Some options offer lively environments with bars, while others provide cozy spaces with shared kitchens or common lounges. For those seeking more space or specific amenities, numerous hotels are located throughout the city, including properties near the main railway station and central squares, as well as locations situated in business districts or suburban areas.
For a more upscale experience, you can choose from several high-end options:
- Historic buildings featuring Secession style architecture or those originally built for Orient Express passengers.
- Hotels offering classic furniture, marbled bathrooms, and expansive ballrooms.
- Boutique hotels located in the city centre near major cultural landmarks like the Croatian National Theatre.
Food & drink
Explore a wide variety of dining options throughout the city center, where you can find everything from quick bites to traditional Croatian fare. For a fast and convenient meal, numerous take-out spots, pizza-cut shops, and sandwich bars are located near the main square. You can choose from local favorites like grilled cheese sandwiches, stuffed lungic, or the "toplo/hladno" grilled chicken and vegetable sandwich. If you prefer international flavors, look for Mexican street food with bold sauces, Italian pizzas and pastas, or a selection of sushi. For those seeking specialized diets, several establishments offer vegan and plant-based options, while others provide hearty local dishes like cevapcici sausages and goulash.
When you want to relax with a drink, many bars and cafes are clustered around the main square and nearby streets like Tkalčićeva and Gajeva. You can find unique spots such as a fantasy-themed cafe for fans of Tolkien, a gallery-like bar specializing in local schnapps, or venues that offer craft beers from local breweries. For dessert lovers, you can enjoy artisan cookies and brownies, various types of cakes, or a wide selection of pancakes with creative fillings. Please note that smoking is prohibited in all enclosed public spaces, including most bars and cafes.
What to see and do
Explore the historic heart of the city by wandering through Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji grad (Lower Town), which serve as the primary cultural and commercial hubs. In the Upper Town, you can visit St. Mark's Square to see its colorful roof tiles or find a moment of peace in Ribnjak Park, an English-style garden featuring exotic plants and sculptures. Nearby, the Old Town Gate serves as a shrine where you can light a candle before a sacred portrait of Mary. For a unique experience, explore the Museum of Broken Relationships, the Museum of Hangovers, or the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery located in an old Jesuit monastery. If you prefer to be active, climb the spiral staircase of Lotrščak Tower for local views or walk through the Grič Tunnel, a former bomb shelter that occasionally hosts concerts.
In the Lower Town, experience the "Lenuci Horseshoe," a series of interconnected green spaces including Strossmayer Square, Zrinjevac Square, and Republic of Croatia Square. You can also visit the Botanical Gardens to see various greenhouses and rock gardens or explore the Archaeological Museum to view its extensive collection of stone monuments and Egyptian artifacts. While some sites like the Zagreb Cathedral and Mimara Museum remain closed due to earthquake damage, other landmarks such as the Baroque St. Catherine's Church and the sculpture of St. George provide a glimpse into the city's rich heritage.
When to go
You can experience four distinct seasons in Zagreb, each offering a different atmosphere for your visit. Summer brings warm to hot weather where you might encounter short-lived heatwaves and abundant rainfall during afternoon and evening thunderstorms. Spring offers a transition toward warmer days with increasing sunshine, though you should prepare for changeable conditions and occasional cold spells early in the season.
Autumn provides pleasant, sunny weather in its early months before becoming increasingly overcast and rainy as the season progresses; you may encounter morning fog in riverside districts and foothills during the later months. Winter is characterized by cold temperatures and overcast skies with reduced precipitation, often featuring snowfall that begins in early December.
Three days in ZagrebDay one, you can begin your journey in the heart of the city at Ban Jelačić Square. Explore the historic atmosphere of Donji Grad as you settle into the local surroundings.
Day two, take in the views near the Sava River or head toward the Medvednica. You can navigate the area using various transportation options to reach different parts of the city.
Day three, you can explore more of the region beyond the city limits. If you choose to travel further, you can find your way toward nearby destinations like Ljubljana, Vienna, or Budapest.