Stand on the southern bank of Daming Lake in the late afternoon and the city shows you its logic: a lake fed by springs, a square named for springs, and a mountain to the south that marks where the dense streets stop. Jinan is the capital of Shandong province and is known as the "City of Springs" for its artesian springs in the urban centre.
This guide suits travellers with a day or two who want to walk rather than commute. The Wikivoyage advice is to focus on the north-south stretch from Daming Lake through Quancheng Square to Qianfo Mountain, and to add the City Government District only if time permits. Carry your passport: many museums are free to visit, but you may be refused entry without identification.
Top things to do in Jinan
1. Daming Lake Park
A park on the northern and western banks of Daming Lake, an icon of Jinan and a AAAAA attraction. Within the park are cafes, pavilions, a 'strange stone' museum and other ancient buildings.
Scenic boat rides can be booked for around ¥20 per person. Entrance to the park is free, though some small museums and mansions inside cost ¥5 each. Pair it with the sights on the southern bank so you are not crossing the lake twice.
2. Baotu Spring Park
A park immediately to the west of Quancheng Square, surrounding Baotu Spring, the 'number 1 spring under heaven'. It includes gardens, pavilions and small museums and memorial halls dedicated to famous locals, among them the Li Qingzhao Memorial Hall, the Li Kuchan Memorial Hall and the Wang Xuetao Memorial Hall. It is a AAAAA attraction.
Tickets are ¥40, or ¥20 for students. Because it sits directly beside Quancheng Square, it makes sense to visit the two together rather than on separate outings.
3. Qianfo Mountain Scenic Spot
A famous park containing gardens, pavilions, a bizarre imitation cave with neon-lit Buddha art, an enormous golden Buddha, statues, the Shandong Revolutionary Martyr's Cemetery for the Revolution of 1911, and temples containing ancient Buddha statues set into stone grottoes. The top of the hill has an impressive view over the city.
It is open 07:00-18:00. The mountain forms the southern boundary of the densely urbanized city, so treat it as the far end of a north-south day rather than a stop in the middle.
4. Thousand Buddha Mountain
Also known as Li Mountain, this is one of the three major scenic spots in Jinan. During the reign of Emperor Kaihuang of the Sui Dynasty (581-600 AD), the prevalence of Buddhism led to thousands of Buddha statues being carved along the mountain terrain, which gave the mountain its name.
It is open 06:30-18:00 and admission is ¥30. From Jinan East Station, take the No. 31 bus, get off at Shandong News Building Station, then transfer to the BRT3 bus and get off at Qianfo Mountain Scenic Area Station.
5. Quancheng Square
A large public square in the centre of Jinan, immediately east of Baotu Spring, south of the main shopping district and west of the Science Museum. At its eastern end is a musical fountain that occasionally puts on an artistically directed light, water and music show, with a semicircular viewing structure beside it and statues of famous ancient Shandong people at the base.
There is a shopping centre and supermarket beneath the square, with entrances at the centre and around the edges, but avoid these in heavy rain, as the shopping centre has flooded in the past with fatal results. Locals come here to fly kites and play other traditional Chinese games.
6. Black Tiger Spring
A famous spring alongside the city moat, flowing out from the carved heads of tigers. A number of other springs in the vicinity flow into pools from which you can collect spring water. It is free.
Reach it by a short walk eastwards along the city moat from Quancheng Square, which makes it an easy addition to a Baotu Spring and Quancheng Square morning.
7. Jinan Old Town
A neighbourhood of alleys and traditional Chinese buildings immediately east of the Jinan Confucius Temple, with an expansion of new faux-traditional Chinese architecture completed in 2016. There are numerous springs, tea houses, the Hundred Flower Pond and the former residence of 20th century Chinese scholar Lu Dahuang. It is free.
Enter from Qushuiting Street and allow time to wander rather than aiming at a single address.
8. Confucius Culture Museum
Located at the Jinan Confucius Temple, on the southern bank of Daming Lake and at the northern end of Furong Street, this complex hosts a number of halls and pavilions with statues of Confucius and other ancient sages.
Its position at the northern end of Furong Street and on the lake's southern bank lets you combine it with a Daming Lake walk in the same visit.
9. Memorial Temple of Xin Qiji
Rebuilt from the original Li Hongzhang Temple, this is a memorial to Xin Qiji, a famous poet and warrior from the Song dynasty. It stands on Daming Hu Road on the west side of Xia Garden, on the south bank of the lake.
Visit it as part of the same circuit as the lake's southern bank rather than as a separate trip.
10. Five Dragon Pool Park
A small park containing a very deep pool of spring water, a few natural springs, pavilions and a temple for the Tang Dynasty army general Qin Qiong, who lived in Jinan. It is free.
Its scale makes it a good short stop between the larger spring and square sights.
11. Liberation Pavilion
A large structure beside the city moat near Black Tiger Spring, on the inner side of the south-eastern corner of the moat. It contains the Jinan Liberation Memorial Hall at the top. It is free.
Combine it with Black Tiger Spring, which is a short distance away along the moat.
12. Laoshe Memorial Hall
A small museum dedicated to the early 20th century Chinese author Laoshe, based in his former residence while he was living in Jinan. It is free.
It sits at 58 Nanxin St, a short walk south from Baotu Spring, so it fits naturally onto the end of a spring-park visit.
13. Jinan Battle Memorial Hall
A museum on Hero Mountain dedicated to a battle that took place in Jinan during the Chinese Civil War. A stairway north of the memorial hall leads to the Revolutionary Martyr's Memorial Tower, a large war memorial dedicated to Communists who died during the Chinese Civil War, with an excellent view of Jinan from the top of the hill.
Entry is free but identification is required.
14. Jinan Museum
A museum at 30 Jingshiyi Rd with exhibitions on the history of the city, Chinese ceramics and old clocks. It is free.
It is a short walk west from the northern main entrance to Qianfo Mountain, so it works well before or after the mountain.
15. Minghu Art Gallery
An impressive modern pagoda standing on an island near the centre of Daming Lake, containing examples of traditional Chinese arts.
It is on Quehua Rd, which makes it a natural stop while you are already at the lake.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Baotu Spring Park, immediately west of Quancheng Square, and see the spring, gardens and memorial halls. Walk a short distance south afterwards to the Laoshe Memorial Hall, then cross to Quancheng Square and continue east along the city moat to Black Tiger Spring.
Afternoon: Head north to Daming Lake. Walk the southern bank for the Confucius Culture Museum and the Memorial Temple of Xin Qiji, then enter Daming Lake Park on the northern and western banks and take a boat ride if you want one. Finish with the alleys of Jinan Old Town, immediately east of the Confucius Temple.
Evening: Return to Quancheng Square, where the musical fountain occasionally runs a light, water and music show, and where locals gather to fly kites and play traditional games. If you still have daylight and energy, Qianfo Mountain Scenic Spot is open until 18:00 and gives you the view over the city from the top.
Frequently asked questions
How much do the main sights cost?
Baotu Spring Park is ¥40, or ¥20 for students. Thousand Buddha Mountain is ¥30. Daming Lake Park, Black Tiger Spring, Five Dragon Pool Park, Jinan Old Town, Quancheng Square, the Confucius Culture Museum, the Laoshe Memorial Hall, Liberation Pavilion and Jinan Museum are free, though some small museums and mansions inside Daming Lake Park cost ¥5 each.
Do I need to carry identification?
Yes. While many museums are free to visit, it is always recommended to carry identification such as a passport, or you risk being refused entry. The Jinan Battle Memorial Hall is free but requires ID.
Which parts of the city should I focus on for a short trip?
Travellers on a short trip gain most by focusing on the city centre, particularly the north-south stretch from Daming Lake through Quancheng Square to Qianfo Mountain. Add a trip to the City Government District if time permits.
When is Qianfo Mountain open, and how do I reach Thousand Buddha Mountain by bus?
Qianfo Mountain Scenic Spot is open 07:00-18:00. Thousand Buddha Mountain is open 06:30-18:00; from Jinan East Station, take the No. 31 bus, get off at Shandong News Building Station, then transfer to the BRT3 bus and get off at Qianfo Mountain Scenic Area Station.
Decide how many days you can give the springs, the lake and the mountain, then start planning your route through the city centre.