Stand on the Songhua River embankment in Jilin City in mid-January and you will see the river steaming while the trees along the bank wear a thick white crust of frozen mist. That rimed shoreline is the image most travellers carry home from this province, and it is only one of the reasons to come.
Jilin suits travellers who are drawn to the far northeast of China: winter light, Manchu and Balhae history, Confucian architecture, and a stretch of border country where the Changbai Mountains meet the Yalu and Tumen rivers. It rewards those willing to move between Changchun, Jilin City and the smaller towns rather than staying in one place.
This guide covers the landmarks, parks, museums and seasonal events that the source material names, with practical notes on how to fit them together. It does not attempt to cover the whole province, and it names only places that can be verified.
Top things to do in Jilin
1. The Rimmed Trees of Jilin city
In winter, the trees along the river in Jilin City are coated in rime ice, a formation the source material lists among the four major natural wonders of China, alongside the Three Gorges of the Yangtze River, the landscape of Jilin and the Stone Forest of Yunnan. The effect comes from moisture off the river freezing onto every branch and twig, turning the banks into a white corridor.
Go in the cold months, when the rime forms, and walk the riverside rather than viewing it from a vehicle. Combine the walk with a visit to Wen Miao Confucian Temple, which is also in Jilin City.
2. Goguryeo Ancient sites
These are the remains of the ancient kingdom of Goguryeo, one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea. The sites include Wunu Mountain City, Guonei City and Wandu Mountain City, fourteen imperial tombs, twenty-six noble tombs, a General's Tomb, and the monument to the nineteenth Emperor of the Koguryo Kingdom. They are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Most of these are around Ji'an, so plan to base yourself there rather than treating the sites as a day trip from Changchun. Allow time to move between the city sites and the tombs.
3. Puppet Emperor's Palace
This is the former residence of Puyi, the last emperor of China and the Puppet Emperor of Manchukuo on behalf of the Japanese. It sits in the north east of Changchun, which makes it straightforward to reach from the provincial capital.
Pair it with Jingyuetan National Scenic Area, which lies south-east of Changchun, if you are giving the city a full day.
4. Jingyuetan National Scenic Area
This is one of the AAAAA class scenic spots of the first group in China. Jingyuetan national forest park in Changchun sits in the eastern mountains to the western steppe transition zone, a hilly area with peaks between 119 and 406 m above sea level.
The park is 9 km to the south-east of Changchun, so it works as a half-day out of the city. The terrain is hilly rather than flat, so allow more time on foot than the distance suggests.
5. Wen Miao Confucian Temple
This temple in Jilin City is described as one of the "Four Confucius Temples of China". The size of the building group and its high level are noted as unique in the feudal society.
It pairs naturally with the Rimmed Trees of Jilin city, since both are in Jilin City. Set aside time to look at the layout of the complex rather than passing through quickly.
6. Jilin City Museum
In 1976, Jilin was hit by a heavy meteorite storm. Many of the stones were collected and placed into this museum. The largest stone weighs 1.775 kg and is thought to be the largest meteorite in existence.
This is an indoor stop, which makes it useful on a cold or wet day in Jilin City. Combine it with the riverside walk if the weather turns.
7. Longtou Mountain
Northwest of Changchun, these hills contain ancient tombs, including the Mausoleum of Princess Zhenxiao and royal tombs of the Balhae kingdom.
Because it lies northwest of Changchun, it fits best as a separate outing from the city rather than an add-on to a day in the centre. Wear footwear suited to walking in hills.
8. Jilin Ice Lantern Festival
This festival is not as famous as the festivals in Harbin but is still worth a visit. It takes place during mid-January.
Time a winter trip so that you are in the province in mid-January, and treat the festival as an evening activity, since ice lanterns are lit after dark.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start in Changchun at the Puppet Emperor's Palace in the north east of the city, where the former residence of Puyi rewards a slow walk through the buildings.
Afternoon: Head south-east of Changchun to Jingyuetan National Scenic Area. The hilly ground and the transition-zone setting make this a good place to spend the middle of the day on foot.
Evening: If you are travelling in mid-January, finish at the Jilin Ice Lantern Festival. Outside that window, use the evening to travel towards Jilin City so that the next morning is free for the Rimmed Trees and Wen Miao Confucian Temple.
Frequently asked questions
When should I go to see the Rimmed Trees of Jilin city?
They are a winter phenomenon, formed when moisture freezes onto the trees along the river. Plan a cold-weather trip and expect the best conditions in the depths of the season.
When does the Jilin Ice Lantern Festival take place?
During mid-January. It is smaller in reputation than the Harbin festivals but still worth a visit.
Where are the Goguryeo Ancient sites?
Most of them are around Ji'an. They include Wunu Mountain City, Guonei City and Wandu Mountain City, the imperial and noble tombs, the General's Tomb and the monument to the nineteenth Emperor of the Koguryo Kingdom.
What can I see in Jilin City itself?
The Rimmed Trees along the river, Wen Miao Confucian Temple, and Jilin City Museum, which holds meteorites collected after the 1976 meteorite storm.
Decide which season you are travelling in, pick the places above that match it, and start mapping your route between Changchun, Jilin City and Ji'an.