Stand on the steps of the Cathedral of St. Peter of Alcantara in the late afternoon and the valley opens below you, with the wooded ridges of the Órgãos Mountains rising on every side. Petrópolis grew up around that view and around the summer court that once moved here from Rio de Janeiro, which is why so much of the centre is imperial in scale and cool in climate.
The city suits travellers who want a day or two of palaces, museums and mountain air within easy reach of Rio de Janeiro, and who are happy to walk between sights in the historic centre. It also suits anyone interested in Brazilian imperial history, in the aviation pioneer Alberto Santos Dumont, or in the Atlantic Forest that surrounds the town.
This guide covers the principal sights, how to string them together in a single day, and a few practical questions about timing and access.
Top things to do in Petrópolis
1. Imperial Museum of Brazil
The former summer palace of Dom Pedro II and his wife, Dona Teresa, and the city's central attraction. The building is well preserved and holds a collection of royal exhibits, including a diamond- and pearl-studded crown. It is the natural starting point for understanding why Petrópolis exists in the form it does.
It opens Tuesday to Sunday, 11:00 to 18:00, with adult tickets at R$8 and student tickets at R$4. Because it opens later than several other sights, pair it with a morning visit to the Cathedral of St. Peter of Alcantara, which is nearby in the centre.
2. Cathedral of St. Peter of Alcantara
This cathedral houses the tombs of Dom Pedro II, Dona Teresa and their daughter Princesa Isabel. It is free to enter, and the steps in front give good views over the surrounding city.
Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday, 08:00 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 18:00. Come in the morning before the Imperial Museum opens, or in the mid-afternoon after it closes.
3. A Encantada (Santos Dumont's house)
The summer residence of the Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos Dumont, nicknamed "The Enchanted". He designed the house himself, and it now operates as a museum showing his objects, books, letters and furniture, along with some of his domestic inventions: an alcohol-fuelled hot shower and an entrance staircase with paddle-shaped steps that can only be used starting with the right foot.
The Centro Cultural 14a is attached to the house and shows a short film about Santos Dumont; the space has tactile models and accessibility for visitors with special needs. It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00 to 17:30, with tickets sold until 17:00, at R$8 full price and R$4 half price.
4. Palácio de Cristal
A greenhouse built in France for Princesa Isabela and brought to Brazil in 1884. Entry is free, and it opens Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00 to 17:30.
Its early opening makes it a good first stop of the day, before the Imperial Museum begins admitting visitors at 11:00.
5. Cervejaria Bohemia
The brewery of the Bohemia beer brand, built in neoclassical style in 1853 and listed as a national heritage building. Visits cover the beer-making process and the history of beer. Tickets cost between R$9.50 and R$19.50 and are sold up to two hours before closing; they can also be bought on the website.
Opening hours are Wednesday to Friday 11:00 to 18:00, and Saturday and Sunday 11:00 to 20:00. Note that it is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, so plan it for the middle or end of a week or a weekend.
6. Quitandinha Palace
A historic former luxury resort hotel, second only to the Copacabana Palace in Rio. It closed in 1962 and was turned into private condominiums, so the building itself is not open as a hotel, but the lavish surrounding gardens are open to the public.
Treat this as a walk rather than a museum visit, and go for the gardens.
7. Rio Negro Palace
One of the official residences of the President of Brazil, though mostly used as a country retreat. It sits on Avenida Koeller and is worth seeing from the outside as part of a circuit of the city's republican-era buildings.
8. Trekking Petrópolis
This company organises hikes, mountain biking and other activities in the Mata Atlântica rainforest. It is the practical way to get out of the historic centre and into the forested hills that surround the city.
Contact them on +55 24 2235-7607 to arrange an activity. Build this into a second day rather than the one-day plan below, since it takes you away from the centre.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start early at the Cathedral of St. Peter of Alcantara, which opens at 08:00 and is free, and see the tombs of Dom Pedro II, Dona Teresa and Princesa Isabel. Walk from there to the Palácio de Cristal, open from 09:00 with free entry.
Afternoon. Go to the Imperial Museum of Brazil when it opens at 11:00 and give it the middle of the day. Afterwards, continue to A Encantada, Santos Dumont's house, which stays open until 17:30 with tickets sold until 17:00, and watch the short film at the attached Centro Cultural 14a.
Evening. Finish at Cervejaria Bohemia, which on Saturday and Sunday stays open until 20:00, or until 18:00 on Wednesday to Friday. Remember that tickets are sold up to two hours before closing, so arrive with time to spare.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Imperial Museum of Brazil open?
Tuesday to Sunday, 11:00 to 18:00. Adult tickets are R$8 and student tickets R$4.
Is the Cathedral of St. Peter of Alcantara free to visit?
Yes. It is free, and it opens Tuesday to Sunday from 08:00 to 12:00 and again from 14:00 to 18:00.
Can I visit the Quitandinha Palace building?
The building closed as a hotel in 1962 and was turned into private condominiums. The lavish surrounding gardens are open to the public.
What is there to do outside the historic centre?
Trekking Petrópolis organises hikes, mountain biking and other activities in the Mata Atlântica rainforest. You can reach them on +55 24 2235-7607.
Decide which day suits the brewery's opening hours, check the museum timings, and you have enough to start planning your trip to Petrópolis.