Petropolis
Introduction
Petrópolis sits in a valley of the Órgãos Mountains in the state of Rio de Janeiro, southeastern Brazil, roughly 40 kilometres north of Rio de Janeiro city. It is the principal city of the Fluminense Mountain Region, and its mountain setting shapes the cool, elevated climate that distinguishes it from the coast below.
Beyond its role as the region's largest city, Petrópolis also leads the Fluminense Mountain Region in economic output and human development, making it both a population centre and the area's commercial and cultural anchor.
Before you go
Petrópolis began as farmland in the 1830s, until Emperor Dom Pedro I passed through on his way to Minas Gerais, was struck by the scenery, and bought land there. The land later passed to his son, Dom Pedro II, who built a summer retreat; a palace, mansions and a cathedral followed, giving the city its nickname, "The Imperial City". The city is also home to the National Laboratory for Scientific Computing (LNCC), a research unit of the Ministry of Science and Technology of the Brazilian Federal Government. Before you arrive, it helps to know where to pick up information. The main branch of the Centro da Informação Turística sits in the Centro de Cultura Raul de Leoni on Praça Visconde de Mauá, in the Centro Histórico opposite the Museu Imperial, and there is a second branch in the main bus station, Rodoviária de Petrópolis. Staff can supply the Petrópolis Imperial Sightseeing brochure, which is available in English and comes with a map and the opening hours of the major attractions.Getting there
Petrópolis is reached only by road, and the most frequent intercity connections are from Rio de Janeiro. Long-distance buses also arrive from Belo Horizonte, São Paulo and Brasília. On the approach, a seat on the left-hand side of the bus gives you the best views. The intercity bus station — officially the Terminal Rodoviária Governador Leonel Brizola, commonly called the Rodoviária de Petrópolis or Rodoviária do Bingen — sits on R. Galdino Pimentel off Rod. Washington Luiz Henrique Perdigão (BR-040) in the suburb of Bingen, on the western outskirts of the city, roughly 10 km from the Centro Histórico. It has ATMs, gift shops, a newsstand and a food court with snack bars, coffee shops and a restaurant. To reach the centre, take local bus 100 or 010 and ask to be dropped off at Praça Liberdade; a taxi to or from the Centro Histórico is also an option. Services from Rio run by Única/Fácil connect Petrópolis with Novo Rio Rodoviária, Terminal Garagem Menezes Côrtes (Terminal do Castelo) and Terminal Rodoviário de Campo Grande, with departures throughout the day and less frequent service on weekends.Getting around
Petrópolis is a compact mountain city, and its historic centre is where most visitors spend their time. All the main tourist sights cluster close to the centre and are easily accessible on foot, so plan to do your sightseeing on foot and save motorised transport for reaching the bus station or heading further out. There is no metro, tram or passenger rail network for getting around the city, and the only way in is by road, so build your trip around buses, cars and taxis rather than trains.
- On foot: Walking is the simplest way to explore the historic core, which makes it a natural base for a visit.
- Buses: Numerous services run in and around town, but the number 100 and 010 are the most useful to visitors, linking the centre with the Leonel Brizola bus station in Bingen on the western outskirts. Pay the modest fare in cash on the bus. To work out local connections, use the Moovit app and choose the metropolitan area "Rio e Região". From the intercity bus station, take bus 100 or 010 and ask to be dropped off at Praça Liberdade.
- Taxis and ride-hailing: Taxis are plentiful and you can hail one of the many driving around town, or book ahead through a local taxi call line. Uber is also available for point-to-point trips.
- Car hire: A car hire office in the centre is really only useful if you plan on visiting the area around the city rather than staying in the historic core.
Where to stay
For quiet rooms close to the bus station, try Pousada 14 Bis on Rua Buenos Aires, a few blocks from where you arrive. If you prefer to stay outside the centre, Pousada Quitandinha is an HI-affiliated hostel in the quiet Quitandinha neighbourhood, set in a wooden house with four-bed dorm rooms, clean bathrooms and friendly, helpful staff. It serves a varied all-you-can-eat breakfast and cooks basic but filling meals; reach it by bus and get off at Quitandinha lake with the fake lighthouse, then climb the stairs to the left of the palacio. For a quieter stay in the mountains, Pousada Mata Atlantica dos Sauer on Rua Bingen is a bed and breakfast alongside the mountains of Petropolis, with natural water springs on the compound and a waterfall. It offers hiking trails, breakfast included, free Wi-Fi and free long distance calls to the USA and Canada.Food & drink
For budget meals, the city center is your best bet, with most options clustered along Rua do Imperador. You'll find self-service and home-style spots such as O Temperado, Mary Lanches, Imperador Self Service, Restaurante Obelisco Grill, Saboretto Self-Service and Rango Kilo, plus Soberano Grill on R. Nilo Peçanha and La Bella in Vila Macedo. For something mid-range, try Duetto's Café e Bistrô within the Museu Imperial complex for pastries and hot dishes, or Restaurante Tradição Mineira and Casa do Alemão, both on R. Dezesseis de Março in the center. If you feel like splurging, Majórica Churrascaria on Rua do Imperador serves churrasco near the Museu Imperial, while Locanda della Mimosa in Vale Florida offers exotic food and takes reservations. Check opening times carefully, as a number of restaurants close Monday through Wednesday or Monday through Thursday. Drinking options are fairly thin, but you'll find a few good chopperias on Rua do Imperador. The city's most famous native beer is Bohemia, which became popular nationwide after its brewery was acquired by Antarctica.What to see and do
Petrópolis rewards you with a compact set of sights tied to Brazil's imperial past. Start at the Imperial Museum, the weekend house of Dom Pedro II and Dona Teresa, whose well-preserved rooms hold royal exhibits and a diamond- and pearl-studded crown. Nearby, the Cathedral of St. Peter of Alcantara houses the tombs of Dom Pedro II, Dona Teresa and their daughter Princesa Isabel, and its steps give you fine views over the city. The Palácio de Cristal, a greenhouse built in France for Princesa Isabela and brought to Brazil in 1884, is another free stop, while the Quitandinha Palace, a former luxury resort hotel turned private condominiums, is worth a look for its lavish gardens, which remain open to the public. You can also visit the Rio Negro Palace, one of the official residences of the President of Brazil, mostly used as a country retreat. For something different, head to A Encantada, the summer residence of aviation pioneer Alberto Santos Dumont, who designed the house himself; it now serves as a museum of his objects, books, letters and furniture, including his alcohol-fueled hot shower and a staircase with paddle-shaped steps you can only climb starting with your right foot. The attached Centro Cultural 14a shows a short film about him and offers tactile models and accessibility for visitors with special needs. Beer lovers can tour the Cervejaria Bohemia, a neoclassical brewery built in 1853 and listed as national heritage, to learn about the beer-making process and its history. If you want to get outdoors, a local company organizes hikes, mountain biking and other activities in the Mata Atlântica rainforest.When to go
Petrópolis has a mild tropical highland climate, so temperatures stay gentle year-round and you can visit at almost any time. The seasons still shape the experience, though, and your choice mostly comes down to how you feel about heat, rain and crowds.
- Humid summer: This is the warmest stretch of the year, with humid conditions and the heaviest rain. Expect wet days, but also lush green surroundings. It is also the peak holiday period in Brazil, so crowds and higher prices are likely.
- Mild winter: The coolest months are still mild, though occasional cold snaps are possible. Rain is lighter than in summer, making it a comfortable time to explore the Atlantic Forest and the town.
Three days in Petropolis
Day one: Arrive in Petrópolis, the Imperial City in the Fluminense Mountain Region, and orient yourself in the Centro Histórico. Start at the Centro de Informação Turística, then take in the Museu Imperial, the former summer palace of Emperor Dom Pedro II. In the evening, wander Praça Visconde de Mauá and the surrounding streets of the Centro.
Day two: Go beyond the centre with Petrópolis Imperial Sightseeing, which offers commentary in English. The mountains around the city set the tone for the day, and the cooler air is a welcome change from Rio de Janeiro. Return to the Centro Histórico for the Casa da Cultura Raul Leoni and the Praça Visconde de Mauá.
Day three: Use the city as a base for the wider Fluminense Mountain Region, with road links toward Minas Gerais, Belo Horizonte, São Paulo and Brasília. If you are leaving by bus, the Terminal Rodoviário Governador Leonel Brizola is the departure point. Before you go, revisit the Museu Imperial or the Centro for a last look at the Imperial City.