Stand on the bank of the Gumti River in the late afternoon and the city shows you two faces at once: the traffic and trade of a working district town, and, a short ride west, the low green mounds of Lalmai Mainamati where Buddhist monasteries were built, used and abandoned more than a thousand years ago.
Comilla suits travellers who are already in eastern Bangladesh and want archaeology, a war cemetery kept to an immaculate standard, and a temple in the middle of a busy town, rather than a resort. Most of what is listed here sits along the Comilla University Road axis west of the city, so a single half-day can cover the main sites.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, the practical details attached to them, and how to string them into one day.
Top things to do in Comilla
1. Shalban Vihara
Shalban Vihara is the archaeological site on Comilla University Road, 8 km west of Cumilla, where a Buddhist monastery was built in the 7th century under King Bhava Deva and used by monks for prayer and religious study until the 12th century. Three sites of particular significance were unearthed here: Salban Vihara, Kotila Mura and Charpatra Mura. Kotila Mura is where three stupas corresponding to the three deities of Buddha, Sangha and Dharma were located.
The site is open 9AM-5PM daily. The Mainamati Museum stands on site with more exhibits, so plan to see both in one visit rather than splitting them across days.
2. Mainamati Museum
The Mainamati Museum is adjacent to Shalban Bihar and houses artifacts from the Neolithic period through later Hindu and Buddhist eras. Exhibits include stone sculptures, terracotta plaques, ancient coins and weapons.
Entry is Tk 30 for Bangladeshi adults, with different rates for foreigners, students and children. Because it sits beside Shalban Vihara, the natural order is to walk the mounds first and then come inside to see what was recovered from them.
3. Mainamati War Cemetery
The Mainamati War Cemetery contains the graves of 702 Allied soldiers from World War II and is overseen by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. It is serene and immaculately kept, a place of quiet reflection unlike most other cemeteries in Bangladesh.
Entry is free. Pair it with the Mainamati Museum and Shalban Vihara, which are in the same western cluster, and allow yourself unhurried time here rather than treating it as a quick stop.
4. New Shalban Bihar
New Shalban Bihar, also called Nobo Shalban Bihar, is a Buddhist temple complex near Shalban Bihar. The temple was constructed with support from Thailand and features striking golden statues and several jade and other sculptures inside. There is also an orphanage on site.
Visitors need permission from the caretaker to enter the main temple building. Shoes must be removed at the entrance and the complex is walked barefoot. It is a good location for photography, but be respectful of the religious environment. Entry is Tk 30 for Bangladeshi adults; foreigner and student rates vary but remain nominal.
5. Comilla Jagannath Temple
Comilla Jagannath Temple, also known as Sateroratna Mandir or the Seventeen Jewel Temple, stands in the center of town and is dedicated to the Hindu god Jagannath. It was built by the king of Tripura, Ratna Manikya II, during the 18th century, and houses the deities Balabhadra and Subhadra. It has or had 17 towers, corresponding to the jewels of its name.
It is open daily 6AM-9PM. Since it sits in the center of town, it works well as a stop on a day when you are already in the city rather than out at the Mainamati sites.
6. Dharmasagar Pond
Dharmasagar Pond is in the center of town and is a relaxing place to be close to the city, with a big city park on the north end. The source notes one caveat: the stagnant water smell may get to you.
Combine it with Comilla Jagannath Temple, since both are in the center of town, and treat it as a pause between other stops rather than a destination in itself.
7. Magic Paradise Park
Magic Paradise Park is described as a kind of Bangladeshi Disneyland, with a Jurassic Park, or Dino Park, and a water park rolled into one. Rates start at Tk 399.
This is the one entry on the list aimed squarely at families and children, and it is a full outing rather than a quick stop, so give it its own block of time.
If you only have one day
Morning: Head west along Comilla University Road to Shalban Vihara when it opens at 9AM, and walk the monastery mounds, including Kotila Mura and Charpatra Mura. Continue into the Mainamati Museum next door to see the stone sculptures, terracotta plaques, coins and weapons recovered from the site.
Afternoon: Move on to New Shalban Bihar, near Shalban Bihar, remembering to remove your shoes at the entrance and to ask the caretaker for permission before entering the main temple building. Then spend unhurried time at the Mainamati War Cemetery, which has free entry.
Evening: Return to the center of town for Comilla Jagannath Temple, open until 9PM, and finish with a slow walk at Dharmasagar Pond, with the city park on its north end.
Frequently asked questions
When is Shalban Vihara open?
Shalban Vihara is open 9AM-5PM daily. The Mainamati Museum is on the same site, so arriving in the morning gives you time for both.
Is there an entry fee for the Mainamati Museum and New Shalban Bihar?
Both charge Tk 30 for Bangladeshi adults. Rates for foreigners, students and children differ but remain nominal. The Mainamati War Cemetery has free entry.
What should I know before entering New Shalban Bihar?
You need permission from the caretaker to enter the main temple building. Shoes must be removed at the entrance and the complex is walked barefoot, so dress and behave with the religious setting in mind.
Which sights are close enough to combine?
Shalban Vihara, the Mainamati Museum, New Shalban Bihar and the Mainamati War Cemetery form one western cluster. Comilla Jagannath Temple and Dharmasagar Pond are both in the center of town and pair naturally with each other.
Decide which cluster you will give your first morning to, check the opening times above against your travel day, and you have enough to start planning a trip to Comilla.