Damascus is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, set on a plateau in southwestern Syria on the Barada River, among the eastern foothills of the Anti-Lebanon mountain range. The walled Old City, with its covered souqs and narrow pedestrian lanes, forms the historic heart, while the modern city spreads west around the Barada and north towards the slopes of Jabal Qasioun. The climate is arid: summers are long, dry and hot, winters cool and somewhat rainy, and the Barada is now almost dry within the city.
For a visitor, the practical question is whether to base yourself inside the Old City, in the budget cluster just outside its walls, or in the newer commercial centre to the west. This guide covers the areas the sources identify for travellers, what each is like, and who each suits. It does not recommend individual hotels; compare live prices with the booking tools on this page.
Best areas to stay in Damascus
1. The Old City
The walled Old City is the historic core, enclosed by the city walls on the south bank of the Barada. Staying here puts you within walking distance of the covered markets, Straight Street and the old neighbourhoods, and the accommodation is largely small guesthouses and converted traditional courtyard houses, including restored Ottoman-style buildings with courtyards and rooftop terraces. It suits first-time visitors who want the sights on foot and are happy with narrow, pedestrian-only streets.
Note that some properties lie on two-metre-wide lanes common in the older quarters, so a car cannot reach the door. The Old City is also where several of the mid-range and budget courtyard properties are found, including around Bab Touma and Bab Sharqi.
2. Souq al-Saroujah
Saroujah, just outside the Old City, is where the cluster of backpacker hotels is found, on an attractive side street about a five to ten minute walk from the citadel. It suits budget travellers and backpackers who want cheap beds near the Old City, and the area has a concentration of small courtyard hotels with shared or private bathrooms.
It is a practical base: within walking distance of the commercial markets and many restaurants, and close enough to the Old City to walk in. If you are a light sleeper, ask for a room away from kitchens, bathrooms and reception areas, and note that some properties in the area do not allow alcohol on the premises.
3. Al-Marjeh (Martyr's Square)
Al-Marjeh, known in Arabic as Merjeh, is the other area worth considering if you are on a tight budget, in the modern commercial centre that grew up west of the Old City around the Barada. It is central and well connected, with the city hall, courts, post office and railway station historically on the higher ground slightly to the south.
Be aware that many of the places here double as brothels, and the square is the red light district of Damascus. Women alone should avoid hotels at Merjeh Square. If you do base yourself here, treat it strictly as a budget option and check the property carefully before booking.
4. Al-Salihiyah and the Qasioun slopes
Al-Salihiyah lies about two to three kilometres north of the Old City, on the slopes of Jabal Qasioun overlooking the city, and is centred on the shrine of the medieval Andalusian sheikh and philosopher Ibn Arabi. The outlying villages that developed on these slopes in the nineteenth century are now part of the urban fabric, and the area is quieter and higher than the centre.
It suits travellers who prefer a calmer residential base with views over the city and do not mind being a short ride from the Old City rather than inside it. The slope is a practical consideration: streets climb, so expect uphill walking.
5. Mezzeh and the western suburbs
Mezzeh is a western neighbourhood that was one of the main areas of twentieth-century development, part of the modern administrative and commercial city that shifted west and north of the Old City. It is a contemporary residential and business district rather than a historic one, and the accommodation is more likely to be larger, modern, business-class properties than courtyard guesthouses.
It suits business travellers and those who want modern facilities and easier vehicle access, at the cost of being away from the Old City and dependent on transport to reach the sights.
6. Dummar and Barzeh
Dummar, along the Barada valley in the northwest, and Barzeh, on the mountain slopes in the north-east, are among the most recent directions of the city's growth. These are outlying residential areas rather than tourist districts, with newer housing and, in Dummar's case, valley settings along the river.
They suit travellers with a specific reason to be in these parts of the city, or those who prefer newer residential surroundings, but they are not convenient for a sightseeing visit and you will rely on transport for everything.
Where to stay on a budget, mid-range or splurge
- Budget: small guesthouses and hostels, often with courtyard common areas, shared bathrooms and simple rooms; the main cluster is in Souq al-Saroujah, with further cheap options around Merjeh Square. Some properties include breakfast, some do not allow alcohol, and some have rooms a long walk from the shared bathrooms.
- Mid-range: family-run hotels, converted traditional courtyard houses and small hotels in and around the Old City and the central commercial area, typically with private bathrooms, air conditioning, satellite television and sometimes airport pickup; some rent rooms for longer student stays.
- Splurge: large business-class and international-standard hotels, mostly in the city centre and modern districts, with facilities such as restaurants, bars, fitness and spa services. Be sceptical of star ratings: most hotels in Damascus claiming five stars are closer to what Western travellers know as two stars, because the Syrian accreditation agency gives inflated ratings to hotels owned by Syrian chains and to those that have paid bribes.
Best area for a first visit
For a first visit, base yourself in the Old City. It puts the historic core, the souqs and the old quarters within walking distance, and it is where the widest choice of courtyard guesthouses and small hotels is found. If your budget is tight, Souq al-Saroujah just outside the walls is the next best choice, since it keeps you within a short walk of the same sights.
Frequently asked questions
Which area is best for budget travellers?
Souq al-Saroujah, where the cluster of backpacker hotels is located, on an attractive side street about a five to ten minute walk from the citadel. Merjeh Square is the other budget option, but it is the red light district and women alone should avoid hotels there.
Can I pay by credit card in Damascus?
Due to American sanctions on Syria, credit cards linked to US banks will not be accepted, which in practice covers almost every credit card in the world. Plan to pay in cash and check accepted currencies before you book.
Are hotel star ratings in Damascus reliable?
No. Most hotels claiming five stars are closer to what Western travellers know as two stars, because the Syrian government's accreditation agency gives inflated ratings to hotels owned by Syrian chains and to those that have paid bribes to the authorities.
When is the best time to visit, given the climate?
Damascus has an arid climate with prolonged, dry, hot summers and cool, somewhat rainy winters; snowfall is infrequent. Autumn is brief and mild but has the most drastic temperature change, while spring transitions to summer more gradually and steadily.
Compare live prices for the areas above with the booking tools on this page before you decide where to base yourself.