By late evening the slopes of Mount Qasioun look down on a city lit up below, with the minarets of the mosques picked out in green light and the Umayyad Mosque standing out clearly in the old town. In the old quarter, meanwhile, dinner is served in restored courtyard houses, and the smoke of water pipes drifts through coffee houses where the backgammon boards come out.
Damascus has a lively nightlife scene, with bars and nightclubs offering drinks and dancing, though many establishments closed because of the war and businesses have been reported returning gradually to the Old City since around mid-2016. It suits travellers who want an evening built around eating, tea, coffee, water pipes and conversation as much as around drinking, and who are comfortable that the scene is uneven and changing.
Where to go out in Damascus
1. Mount Qasioun
Going up the mountain to see the city at night is a standard Damascus activity. The peak is accessible at any time, and the view is arguably at its best after dark, when the whole city is lit and the minarets are bathed in green light; the Umayyad Mosque in the old town is particularly impressive from up there.
This suits an early-evening outing rather than a late night. There is a wide range of food and refreshment on the peak, from stalls to restaurants serving local cuisine and alcohol, but check the price before you get too comfortable, as it is a well-known scam for taxi drivers to take you to their favourite cafe where you end up paying a fortune for a cup of tea.
2. Restaurants of Old Damascus
The old quarter holds many restaurants, each with its own character. Among the best known is Beit Jabri, which is also the most touristy; Al-Khawali is considered by many to be the best dining experience in the old city. Narcissus Palace, close to Maktab Anbar, has a singer and band playing old Arabic music every night.
This is the choice for a long, atmospheric dinner. One practical idea from the sources is to use these restaurants for breakfast instead, which is very cheap, and then go sightseeing.
3. Hooka cafes
Hooka cafes are popular in Damascus and easy to find. In the old city you get a more cultural and traditional experience, typically a crowd of tea-drinking, backgammon-playing men all smoking hooka. In the modern city, most cafes cater to a younger crowd and form a big part of the nightlife, with a huge variety of flavoured tobacco ranging from double apple, the most common, to cappuccino.
Almost every major restaurant makes hookas available, including those in the old city, so this is an easy way to end an evening wherever you have eaten.
4. Coffee houses of Old Damascus
The coffee houses of Old Damascus were something to experience, with hours dissolving over a cup of shay or ahwa among the smoke of a nargileh. An-Naufara, meaning "The Fountain", just east of the Umayyad Mosque, was a wonderful place to do this, and a Hakawati, a traditional story teller, was present at 19:00 most nights.
This suits a slow, early night and a taste of the traditional city rather than a bar crawl. Havana Cafe, established in 1945, was for a long time the main meeting place of the cultural elite in Damascus.
5. Abu Rommeneh street
If you wanted a European-style coffee, Abu Rommeneh street was the place to head, looking for the Bennetton clothing store. There were a number of fancy cafes in the area, including the Middle Eastern chain Inhouse Coffee, similar to Starbucks in its prices and atmosphere, with free Wi-Fi offered at each location throughout the city.
This suits a daytime or early-evening stop rather than a big night out, and is useful if you want familiar coffee and a connection.
6. Bab Sharqi area
Damascus has numerous bars and nightclubs offering drinks and dancing. While prostitution is commonplace in many venues, there are decent places worth visiting, particularly around the Bab Sharqi area, such as La Serai and La Vida Loca.
This is the closest thing to a conventional night out on the town. Note that the sources do not confirm which of these venues are currently open, so treat any specific name as something to check locally before you go.
7. Reopened old town venues
Old Town establishments which have reopened include La Marionnette Pub on Al-Shehabandar, opposite the Ministry of Education, and Pub Sharqi on Al Qashla Avenue.
These suit a drink in the old city rather than a full night out. Because the scene has been in flux since the war, with businesses reported returning gradually to the Old City, confirm opening before making a trip across town.
8. Hammams
Bathing in a hammam, a Turkish bath, is a way of soaking up the atmosphere of Old Damascus and recovering after a long day. A visit typically includes towels, soap, scrub, a massage and a tea, with the price made up of bath entry, scrub, sauna, massage and extras such as tea or soap.
Two baths familiar with Western visitors are Nur-al-Din Bath, between the Azem Palace and Straight Street, and Bakri Bath, on the first street on the right after entering the Old City at Bab Touma. Nur-al-Din is for men only; Bakri might be able to accommodate women or mixed groups upon prior arrangement, and for women it operates each day except Friday, 10:00-17:00. This is an afternoon or early-evening activity rather than a night out.
How a night out unfolds
The sources give only scattered timing. A traditional story teller was present at An-Naufara at 19:00 most nights, which suggests the old-city coffee houses get going in the early evening. Restaurants in the old quarter serve dinner, and the sources suggest breakfast there is very cheap, so an early meal followed by sightseeing is a workable pattern. Hammam sessions run in the daytime and late afternoon, with Bakri Bath open to women until 17:00. Beyond that, the sources do not say when people eat, when they go out or how late things run.
Frequently asked questions
Is there anywhere to see the city at night?
Yes. Mount Qasioun is accessible at any time and the view is perhaps most spectacular at night, when the whole city is lit up and the minarets of the mosques are bathed in green light.
Can I drink alcohol in Damascus?
There are bars and nightclubs offering drinks and dancing, and restaurants on Mount Qasioun serve alcohol. The sources do not state a legal drinking age or other rules, so check locally.
What can I do in the evening that does not involve bars?
Hooka cafes are popular and easy to find, and in the old city you get a more traditional experience with tea, backgammon and water pipes. The coffee houses of Old Damascus, such as An-Naufara, were also a place to spend hours over tea or coffee.
Are the venues mentioned here still open?
Many establishments closed because of the war, and as of mid-2016 there were reports of businesses gradually returning to the Old City. The sources name some places that have reopened, but they do not confirm that every venue listed is currently operating, so verify before you set out.
Decide whether your evening is for the mountain view, a courtyard dinner or a hammam, then confirm what is open before you go.