By evening, the Prado, the central tree-lined section of the main thoroughfare through the downtown core, is a useful reference point as the city lights come on below Illimani. Dinner tends to come late, and the night gathers pace afterwards.
La Paz rewards travellers who want music, conversation and altitude-adjusted stamina rather than a single strip of venues. The scene runs from folk-music peñas in the central tourist quarter to dressed-up clubs in the Zona Sur, with bars and cafés in between. It suits people who are happy to move between neighbourhoods by taxi or cable car, and who take the first day slowly.
Where to go out in La Paz
1. Calle Sagarnaga and the central tourist quarter
This is the most convenient area for a first night, with peñas and bars within walking distance of each other. Expect tourist prices and a mixed foreign and local crowd.
Huari, on Calle Sagarnaga, is a peña known for its music and dance performances; the source notes it is convenient for foreign tourists and priced accordingly. Oliver's Travels on Calle Murillo is a backpacker bar with a party atmosphere and English-speaking staff, and Sol Y Luna on the same street is a traveller's hangout with live music, a pool table and coca leaf mojitos.
2. Plaza Avaroa and Plaza San Pedro
A central area for cafés and themed bars, useful if you want an early drink before a later venue. The Irish on Plaza Avaroa is a themed bar frequented mostly by Bolivians, with food and cocktails.
Near Plaza San Pedro you may find "Crazy Dave", a New Yorker who tells his story most afternoons near the prison; the source describes this as an afternoon rather than a night activity. Blueberries on Avenida 20 de Octubre, at the east end of Plaza Avaroa, serves coffee and breakfast.
3. San Jorge and Sopocachi
These central-south neighbourhoods suit a bar-led evening with a local mix. Traffic in San Jorge has a large dance floor and a comfortable bar, and Malegria in Sopocachi is described as a place for performances and a local recommendation.
Antique Pub on Pichincha serves food and plays recorded rock music, with old objects on display. Pomp Pomp Salty Man, at Loayza and Comerceo, is known for its sauces and has an ATM on the premises.
4. Zona Sur (Calacoto, Cota Cota and La Florida)
The southern zone is where you go for a dressed-up night, with clubs and lounges that draw wealthier local youth. Dress well if you plan to go out here.
La Gitana on Calle 8 de Calacoto is a bar and club for the South Zone's upper-class youth. Dry Law in Cota Cota is described as a hip club that is a good alternative if you want to avoid bumping into other travellers. BackStage in La Florida, Calacoto, is a karaoke lounge with songs in Spanish and English.
5. Peñas for Andean folk music
Peñas are music clubs where you can hear Andean folk music, one of the most recognisable aspects of the region's culture. They suit an early-evening, seated night rather than a late club session.
Huari is the peña named in the source, and its central location makes it the convenient choice for visitors.
6. Late-night clubs and discos
For a proper club night, the source points to Forum near Plaza España, a disco with a dressed-up Bolivian crowd, and Mongo's on Hermanos Manchego, which has been popular with travellers and locals and serves food as well as drinks.
If you go to Mongo's, check your bill carefully: the source reports tourists being charged more than menu prices, and pickpockets targeting the venue. Local law prohibits serving alcohol after 04:00, and the source notes a number of speakeasies that defy this.
7. Cinemas
If you want a quieter evening, the city has several cinemas. MultiCine on Avenida Arce is a multiplex with a 3D screen showing current releases, and the Cinemateca Boliviana at Guachalla and Federico Suazo is described as the most modern cinema in the city, showing new releases, local films and international festivals.
MegaCenter is in the Zona Sur at the entrance to Irpavi and requires public transport from downtown. Monje Campero and 16 de Julio are both at the beginning of Avenida 16 de Julio, near Plaza del Estudiante.
8. El Alto for Sunday wrestling
Bolivian wrestling cholitas perform a WWE-inspired show in El Alto, an unusual evening out that pairs well with a cable-car ride. Shows are every Sunday at Ceja El Alto, Zona 12 de Octubre.
Taxis from the downtown tourist area cost at most Bs. 50 according to the source. This is a Sunday-only event, so plan your week around it if it interests you.
How a night out unfolds
The source does not give detailed timings for dinner, but several venues indicate how late the night runs. Hard Rock Cafe on Calle Santa Cruz is listed as open 22:00 to 04:00, and Mongo's as daily 18:00 to 03:30. Local law prohibits serving alcohol after 04:00, so that is effectively the outer limit for a night out, with some speakeasies operating in defiance of the rule. Cafés such as Cafe Confiteria La Paz, near the Obelisco, open from 08:00 until midnight. If you have just arrived from low altitude, take the first day slowly, eat lightly and sleep as much as you can.
Festivals and events worth timing a trip around
- Day of Race — 12 October
- All Souls' Day — 2 November
- Revolution Day Memorial — 16 November
- Christmas Day — 25 December
- New Year's Eve — 31 December
- New Year's Day — 1 January
- Constitution Day — 1 February and 5 February
- Ash Wednesday — 10 February
- Palm Sunday — 21 March
Frequently asked questions
What time does the night end in La Paz?
Local law prohibits serving alcohol after 04:00, and the source notes that some speakeasies defy this. Venues listed in the source close at various times, including 03:30 and 04:00.
Where can I hear Andean folk music?
At peñas, the music clubs that the source describes as one of the most recognisable aspects of Andean culture. Huari on Calle Sagarnaga is the peña named in the source.
Do I need to dress up to go out?
For the Zona Sur clubs, yes. The source advises dressing well for La Gitana and Dry Law, which draw a dressed-up local crowd.
Is there anything to do on a Sunday night?
The Bolivian wrestling cholitas perform every Sunday at Ceja El Alto, Zona 12 de Octubre, with taxis from the downtown tourist area costing at most Bs. 50.
Plan your evening around one neighbourhood rather than trying to cross the city, and check the current status of any venue before you set out.