By early evening the Citadel viewpoint fills with people watching the light drop over the city, and the muezzin call carries across the hills from below. Later, the streets of the central downtown stay busy with vendors, shoppers and shisha smokers, while across town the cafes and bars of the western districts take over.
Amman's nightlife is quieter than that of some other Middle Eastern cities, and it splits roughly in two: a traditional, crowded, street-level scene in the old downtown, and a more cosmopolitan set of cafes, bars and clubs in West Amman. It suits visitors who want food, coffee and shisha as much as alcohol, and who are happy to move between the two halves of the city over an evening.
Where to go out in Amman
1. Central downtown (Old Amman, al-Balad)
The central downtown, known as Old Amman or al-Balad, is a maze of streets with souqs, shops and street vendors, including a spice market. It is busy and crowded, and it gives you the traditional sights and smells of the city; you can walk the narrow alleyways, haggle with vendors, drink sugar cane juice, watch sand designs being made in glass bottles, and smoke shisha in the street cafes.
This suits a night built around food, wandering and people-watching rather than drinking. For eating, the sources name Hashem cafe for falafel, Jerusalem restaurant for mansaf, and Habibeh sweets for kanafe.
2. Abdali
Abdali, a section of downtown, is being transformed into a modern centre for tourists and residents, with plans for a broad pedestrian boulevard where visitors can shop and eat. New office buildings and residential towers have gone up, and the Abdali Mall draws a young, monied crowd.
It suits an evening that mixes shopping and eating in a newer, more polished setting than the old downtown. One source also lists Picadelli Pub at the Abdali bus station, a friendly place serving alcohol, food and complimentary snacks.
3. Rainbow Street, Jabal Amman
Rainbow Street, off First Circle in Jabal Amman, is where you find gourmet coffee shops as well as bars up and down the street. It is the most straightforward area for a conventional night out with drinks.
One source names La Calle on Rainbow Street, a multi-level bar known for half-price happy hour specials. Note that some bars and cafes in the city may card and admit only those aged 21 and over.
4. West Amman (Abdoun and similar districts)
West Amman is the modern, cosmopolitan side of the city, where many Western and American franchises operate, and where the sources place most of the night clubs and bars. Abdoun in particular is named as an area with bars.
This suits a visitor looking for a club or a franchise-style venue rather than a traditional street scene. The sources note that Amman's nightlife overall is not as vibrant as that of Beirut or Tel Aviv, so set expectations accordingly.
5. Hookah cafes
The sources describe hookah shops as the main places people who live in Amman spend their evenings. They range from street cafes in the downtown to dedicated coffee-and-hookah places, some with backgammon boards.
This suits a long, slow evening with coffee and shisha rather than alcohol. One source names Jafra Cafe, across from the post office on King Faisal Street near Hashems and upstairs from the DVD store of the same name, with an old, rustic feel, more young locals than tourists, live music starting at 21:00 most nights, and a second branch near Paris Circle in Jebel Al Webdeh. Another is Al-Mawardi Coffee and Hooka Cafe on Siqilya St, south of Al-Rabia circle, with traditional hookah, a wide selection of coffee and beverages, and backgammon boards but no card games.
6. Cultural venues and galleries
The city's cultural scene has seen increased activity, with cultural centres and clubs named in the sources including Makan House, Al Balad Theater, the Amman Filmmakers Cooperative, Remall and Zara gallery.
This suits an evening built around a performance, a screening or an exhibition rather than a bar. Check what is on before you commit an evening to it.
How a night out unfolds
The sources give only a few fixed points. Live music at Jafra Cafe starts at 21:00 most nights, which suggests that the later evening is when the downtown cafe scene is at its fullest. Beyond that, timings are left open: dinner, shisha and drinks run through the evening, and the sources do not state closing hours or how late venues stay open.
Festivals and events worth timing a trip around
- The Jordan Short Film Festival, held around the 1st of September.
Frequently asked questions
What is the legal drinking age in Amman?
The drinking age is 18, but some bars and cafes may card you and admit only customers aged 21 and over.
Where can I buy alcohol in Amman?
Beer, wine and liquor can be purchased in liquor stores across the city, most of them distinguishable by an advertisement for Amstel or a similar beverage outside. Jordan's national beer is Petra Beer, sold in liquor shops and kiosks around Amman.
What is the local drink to try?
Arak, an aniseed or licorice flavoured spirit similar to Greek ouzo, at 50% alcohol by volume. It is usually served with water and ice, which turns the clear liquid milky white.
Where do I go for coffee instead of alcohol?
Gourmet coffee shops line Rainbow Street off First Circle in Jabal Amman, with others sprinkled throughout the city, and the downtown and hookah cafes serve coffee alongside shisha.
Decide before you set out whether your evening is a downtown one or a West Amman one, since the two are far apart, and plan the rest of your night around that choice.