Amman

Introduction

You will find that Amman serves as the heart of Jordan, functioning as the nation's primary economic, political, and cultural center. As the capital and largest city in the country, it stands as a major hub within the Levant region.

Before you go

Prepare for a city defined by its layered history and diverse population. You will find that Amman is home to a wide variety of ethnic groups, including Palestinian, Iraqi, Circassian, and Armenian communities. While the modern West Amman area offers a lively atmosphere, the older eastern side serves as a traditional residential hub for the working class. Because English proficiency among locals is limited, you should prepare by learning some useful phrases or carrying a translation book. It is also helpful to have the names and addresses of your destinations written in Arabic to assist taxi drivers.

Be mindful of local customs if you are traveling during the holy month of Ramadan. During this time, it is nearly impossible to purchase food from sunrise to sundown, as even large shopping malls restrict food sales at their cafes and restaurants. You can also expect to see "Tourist Police" stationed near major monuments throughout the city.

Getting there

Most travelers arrive in Amman via Queen Alia International Airport. Upon arrival, you can find money exchange services before passport control or use an ATM located after customs. If you need to pay for your visa at the first counter, having cash on hand is advisable as credit card machines can be unreliable. For those with early flights who do not wish to book a hotel, seating is available in the baggage claim hall.

To reach the city from the airport, you can take the Sariyah Airport Express bus which runs frequently and serves several stops including the 7th Circle and Tabarbour North Bus Station. Alternatively, you may choose a taxi from the airport station where fares are fixed, or use ride-hailing apps like Uber and Careem, though these services are located at the departures level and can be unpredictable for return trips to the airport. If arriving via the Tabarbour bus station, you can take the BRT to reach the Jordan Museum area or utilize a Serviis to reach the Raghadan Al Seyaha station near the Roman Theater.

Getting around

Navigating Amman on foot can be challenging as some areas are designed primarily for vehicle traffic. You may encounter steep hills, roads without functional sidewalks, or routes that transition into expressways. Because digital maps may not account for these obstacles, a short walking distance could take much longer than expected. For more reliable travel through the city, you can utilize several transportation options:

• Taxis: Look for yellow and grey taxis with green logos on the doors; avoid those of other colors as they are from different cities. While most trips are short, be cautious of drivers offering "free" rides or private cars posing as taxis near bus stands. For a more predictable experience, you can use ride-hailing apps like Uber or Careem, opting for card payments to ensure the price remains consistent with the app's distance calculation.
• Buses: The city features large municipal buses and an efficient Bus Rapid Transfer (BRT) network that bypasses heavy traffic. You can pay using a card or by swiping your credit or debit card, though you should have the exact fare ready if paying in cash as drivers do not carry change.
• Bicycles: You can join organized bike tours to see local scenery and meet other cyclists.
• Car Rentals: Several companies offer vehicle rentals, some of which provide a driver at no extra cost.

Where to stay

You can find a wide range of accommodations in Amman, spanning from basic budget options to luxurious facilities. For those seeking economical stays, several hostels and hotels offer dormitories or simple rooms in areas like the Downtown district and near the Roman Amphitheatre. Some of these locations provide helpful services such as organized tours, shared trips to tourist sites, and airport pick-ups. In the heart of the city, you can find welcoming establishments with friendly staff and clean facilities.

For a more mid-range experience, you can choose from hotels in quiet neighborhoods or those located near major landmarks like the Royal Cultural Centre. Some of these properties feature amenities such as indoor swimming pools, terrace views, or are situated in prestigious areas. If you prefer a high-end stay, several luxury hotels offer modern art features, extensive dining options, and comfortable rooms in districts like Shmeisani.

Food & drink

Explore a wide variety of dining styles in Amman, ranging from traditional Middle Eastern fare to familiar Western fast food. You can find affordable Arabic dishes throughout the city, which typically feature lamb or chicken, while beef is less common and pork is never served. Look for local favorites like shawarma—lamb meat cooked with a special sauce and rolled in flatbread—or the national specialty, mansaf, a savory lamb and rice dish traditionally eaten with your hands. Many meals are accompanied by fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, and white yogurt sauce, alongside chickpea-based staples such as falafel, hummus, and fuul.

For a taste of local tradition, visit the downtown area to find a famous "hole-in-the-wall" restaurant favored by the Royal family, or head to an alley off King Faisal Street for traditional East Mediterranean sweets like baklava and knafeh nabelseyyeh. If you prefer a more contemporary atmosphere, explore the vibrant Rainbow Street in Jabal Amman. Here, you can find a variety of cafes offering everything from pizza and local snacks to mint tea and water pipes. For a more upscale experience, several restaurants offer gourmet Arabic dishes using fresh local ingredients or French-inspired cuisine with steak and seafood specialties. If you are seeking a unique setting, some dining locations are situated in historic villas with garden seating or within medieval castles on nearby hills.

• For coffee lovers, various locations across the city offer specialty options, including gourmet selections along Rainbow Street.
• Local spirits include arak, an aniseed-flavored liquor served with water and ice to create a milky white appearance.
• You can find local beer, such as Petra Beer, in various shops and kiosks throughout the city.

What to see and do

Explore the historical heart of the city at the Amman Citadel, a national historic site where you can view Roman period remains like the Temple of Herakles, an Umayyad Palace with views over the city, and a Byzantine Church. Nearby, visit the Roman Theater to see its impressive seating capacity or explore the adjacent Odeon theater and nearby museums dedicated to folklore and popular culture. You can also find a partly-preserved Roman Nymphaeum and the ancient Ammonite Watchtower. For a deeper look into local history, the Jordan Museum offers a comprehensive summary of the kingdom's past, while the Jordan Archaeological Museum sits within the citadel complex.

Experience the local atmosphere in different neighborhoods:

• Walk through the revived area of Rainbow Street in Jabal Amman to find cafes with views, various international restaurants, and a traditional hammam.
• Visit the "small house of the arts" at Darat al Funun in Jabal el Weibdeh, or explore the nearby Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts.
• Explore Old Amman and Balad to navigate narrow alleyways filled with spice markets, souvenir shops, and street vendors where you can enjoy falafel, mansaf, or kanafe.

When to go

You can experience Amman's Mediterranean climate across various seasons, each offering a distinct atmosphere. During the winter and spring months from November through April, you will encounter the majority of the annual rainfall. While higher-altitude western and northern neighborhoods may see sporadic snowfall, lower elevations typically receive rain during this period.

As you move into April and May, you can enjoy a brief warm spring. The summer season provides moderately long days with mild heat and refreshing breezes, though you should be prepared for occasional heatwaves. During these warmer months, the weather remains dry as precipitation is concentrated in the cooler months.

Three days in Amman

Day one, you begin your journey in the heart of the city where you can explore the historic Roman Theater. You navigate Amman to experience the local atmosphere and soak in the culture of the Levant.

Day two, you travel through West Amman to see more of the region. You may use a ride-hailing service or a local bus to reach your destination while exploring the area.

Day three, you visit the Jordan Museum to see the artifacts of the land. You can also spend time in different neighborhoods as you conclude your stay in Amman.