Athens
Introduction
Athens is a consolidated city-county in Georgia, sitting about 70 miles northeast of downtown Atlanta. The University of Georgia, the state's flagship public university and an R1 research institution, is based here and drove the city's early growth. In 1991, after a vote the year before, the original City of Athens gave up its charter to merge with Clarke County into a unified government known as Athens–Clarke County, with Athens as the county seat.
Before you go
Spring and late autumn are the best times to visit Athens, when the weather is at its most comfortable. Summer can be extremely hot and dry during heatwaves, though this rarely happens, while winter is definitely low season, with the occasional rainy or snowy day but also an ideal time to save money while enjoying the city without countless other tourists. On most sunny days the skies are azure blue, though peak traffic hour can be a bit smoggy on the main roads. The city is bounded on three sides by Mt. Ymettos, Mt. Parnitha and Mt. Pendeli, and inside Athens are twelve hills, the Acropolis and Lykavittos being the most prominent. These hills provide a refuge from the noise and commotion of the crowded city streets, offering amazing views down to the Saronic Gulf, Athens' boundary with the Aegean Sea on its southern side. Many places of interest can be found within walking distance of the city centre at Syntagma Square, which is bordered by the districts of Plaka to the south, Monastiraki to the west, Kolonaki to the east and Omonia to the north. The streets of Athens are signposted in Greek and English, and now melt imperceptibly into Piraeus, the city's ancient, and still bustling, port.Getting there
Most visitors reach Athens by air through Athens Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, which sits east of the city centre near the suburb of Spáta. It's a major hub for the Aegean, Balkan and East Mediterranean regions, with non-stop flights from North America (some seasonal) and direct service from a large number of European carriers. The airport has the usual fast food restaurants, duty-free shops and lounges, free unlimited Wi-Fi, a 24-hour landside convenience store opposite the car rental counters, and luggage storage at the south end of the arrivals level. Note that remote hard stands and shuttle buses are used as an interim capacity measure, so you can face significant delays if your plane parks away from a jetway.
Overland, KTEL regional coaches connect Athens to other cities in Greece from two stations: Liosion, near Aghios Nikolaos station on the Green line, and Kifissos, served by bus routes from the airport, the city centre, Elaionas Metro station and Piraeus port. Hellenic Train runs the national rail service from Athens Central Railway Station (Larissa Station, on the red line), though the network is limited, with one line heading south to the Peloponnese and another north to Thessaloniki and Larissa and onward toward Istanbul. By road, the main approaches are the A1 motorway from the north and the A8 from the west. By sea, Piraeus is the chief port, served by many ferries and regularly visited by cruise ships in the warm months, with Lavrio to the south and Rafina to the east acting as alternative ports served by KTEL regional buses.
Getting around
Transport for Athens (OASA) runs the city's metro, trams and buses, and a single ticket covers all of them with unlimited transfers for 90 minutes. Signs on the network carry Roman-letter transliterations alongside the Greek, so you can find your way even without reading Greek, and English information is plentiful. Tap a contactless Visa or Mastercard or your phone on the reader to pay as you go, with the cost billed at the end of the day. Note that the metro runs three lines: M1 from Piraeus to Kifissia through the centre, M2 from Anthoupoli to Elliniko, and M3, which links the centre with the airport. Syntagma, Larissa and Acropolis are the key central stations, and many stations display archaeological finds unearthed during construction. Trains are crowded at rush hour and the air conditioning is weak in summer. The tram connects the centre with the coastal southern suburbs, and the suburban railway (Proastiakos) adds lines from Piraeus to the airport and Aigio and from Larissa station to Chalkida.
- Canary-yellow taxis are easy to flag and reasonably priced if you avoid traffic jams; insist on the meter and check the rate, and ask for a receipt if you suspect you have been overcharged.
- Expect to share a taxi at rush hour or late at night, when the driver may pick up extra passengers along the way.
- Strikes by cabbies and public transport are common, so watch the local news and ask your lodging host for alternatives if one hits.
- Driving yourself is notoriously difficult: streets are narrow, corners blind, parking nearly impossible to find and drivers aggressive. Only attempt it with extensive experience in similar conditions.
- Curbside parking requires a scratch-off card from a kiosk left on your dashboard, or payment through a parking app; most central garages offer valet parking only.
Where to stay
Your main decision is whether to stay in Plaka or not. Plaka puts you in the central municipality, close to the ancient sites and museums that make up the active heart of the city, and several small hotels sit right in the neighbourhood — places like Hotel Dioskouros on Pittakou Street, Hotel Acropolis House on Kodrou, Athos with its roof garden and Acropolis view, and the Central Hotel on Apollonas Street. Just outside Plaka, the Psiri and Monastiraki area gives you easy access to the metro and Plaka on foot, with options ranging from the Athens Psiri Hotel on Sofokleous street to Safestay Athens Monastiraki, whose small rooftop bar suits an evening drink. Koukaki, south of the centre, is another convenient base, and Kolonaki is where you'll find upscale boutique stays such as Periscope Hotel and The St George Lycabettus Hotel, both with Acropolis views. If you'd rather stay along the routes heading to the coast, Leoforos Andrea Siggrou is home to large international hotels, and the coastal suburbs of Glyfada and Piraeus offer more modern hotels and scenic sea views — though you'll have to travel back to Plaka for sightseeing. The centre also holds a cluster of luxury addresses around Syntagma Square, including the Grande Bretagne Hotel and King George Palace, while the biggest hotel and pool in the city sits just south of Kolonaki. For a quieter setting, Orion next to Strefi hill offers a calm area and a terrace view, and budget travellers have hostels and camping options, including a campground on the road toward Varibobi/Tatoi. If you need a hotel near the airport, look at listings in Spata and Rafina.Food & drink
Athens rewards eating on your feet as much as at a table. Souvlaki — pork or chicken grilled on a skewer and wrapped in pita with tomato, onion and tzatziki — is sold just about everywhere, especially in tourist areas, and takeaway is cheaper than sitting down. At the end of Mitropoleos, around the corner from the Monastiraki Metro station, three famous souvlaki shops — Thanasis, Savvas and Bairaktaris — stand side by side; ask at the cashier for a pita-souvlaki to take away rather than taking a seat. For a quick snack, the Grigoris and Everest chains sell cheese and spinach pies, while Goody's offers a Greek take on the burger-and-salad formula. Kolonaki and Plaka are especially good areas for dining out, and Adrianou, running along the north side of the Acropolis from Thissio to Plaka, is packed with tavernas — many touristy, so pick one that also draws locals, and expect to pay a little extra wherever you have a view of the Acropolis.
For a proper meal, the centre holds plenty of budget-friendly options: Vegan Beat does vegan street food and an excellent vegan souvlaki, The Traditional serves handmade roasted dishes and appetizers in the style of a village tavern, and Krasopoulio tou Kokkora, Aspro Alogo and Kafeneio Ivis all offer fresh, generous traditional cooking, the last on a pleasant terrace and frequented by locals. Atlantikos is a small seafood tavern worth seeking out for large portions and well-fried fish. Among the long-established tavernas, Karavitis specialises in stamnaki — beef, potatoes and cheese baked in tomato sauce in a clay pot — and K Filippou serves some of the most authentic food in the city. Karamanlidika, near the Greek Agora, is slightly upscale and mixes Greek and Turkish cooking in the Karamanli tradition. For a splurge, Cafe Avissinia serves refined, creative riffs on traditional dishes on the square that hosts the main flea market. Gostijo, a Sephardi restaurant in Psiri, is the city's kosher option. Greeks eat late and socialise late: cafes spill onto the streets, and Psyrrí, just north of Ermou between Monastiraki and Thissio, is the place for smart bars and small clubs.
What to see and do
Athens can look at first like a city of plain concrete blocks, but look closer and you'll find pockets of real character. The neighbourhoods at the foot of the Acropolis — Anafiotika, Plaka, Monastiraki and Thissio — are where the city shows its best face: Neoclassical buildings, narrow winding streets, a mix of trendy and traditional cafes and shops, and striking views up to the Acropolis. Small Greek Orthodox churches turn up in the most unexpected places among the concrete, often decorated inside with icons and brass fittings; dress modestly if you go in, avoiding short sleeves and bare legs as a mark of respect.
The Acropolis itself is the city's defining sight, a fortified hilltop from the Late Bronze Age crowned with the buildings of the Classical age — the Parthenon, the Erectheion and the Temple of Athena Nike, reached through the monumental Propylaea gate. Much of the site is under restoration, so expect scaffolding and cranes to intrude on some views. Timed-entry tickets are mandatory and buying online in advance from the official site is strongly recommended, since same-day slots can run out in peak season; staff admit you to the queue only shortly before your slot. The ticket also covers sites at the foot of the hill, including the Theatre of Dionysus, where many Greek plays were first performed, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, still used for concerts. The Acropolis Museum below has its own separate timed ticket, a deep collection of classical sculpture and a top floor with a fine view back up to the hill; your museum ticket also gets you into the Roman ruins beside the entrance. Beyond the Acropolis, other ancient sites are easy to visit at your own pace — the Pnyx, the rocky hill where Athens' early democratic assembly met, and the Ancient Agora, the green ancient city centre with good views of the Acropolis.
When to go
Spring and late autumn are the best times to visit Athens, with pleasant conditions for exploring the city and azure-blue skies on most sunny days. Late autumn shares spring's favorable weather, making either season a strong choice for enjoying the city at its most comfortable.
- Summer: Can be extremely hot and dry during heatwaves, though this rarely happens. If you visit then, plan around the heat.
- Winter: Definitely low season, so it is an ideal time to save money and enjoy the city without countless other tourists. Expect the occasional rainy or snowy day.
Three days in Athens
Day one: Start in the heart of Athens, Georgia, where The University anchors the city's character. Wander the campus and surrounding streets, then head into downtown to get your bearings among the shops and cafes. In the evening, settle into the lively atmosphere of the Clarke County seat and plan the days ahead.
Day two: Spend the morning exploring the city's historic and cultural corners, then branch out into the neighbourhoods to see how the university crowd and locals mix. Spring and summer are the best times to be out on foot, when the weather is warm and the streets are busy.
Day three: Use your last day to revisit favourite spots and pick up anything you missed, whether that's a museum, a market or a quiet corner of campus. Wrap up with a leisurely meal downtown before heading on.