Sousse

Introduction

Before you go

Sousse sits on the coast, with good beaches and a clear turquoise sea, and it draws visitors from Russia, Serbia, Croatia, Britain, Germany and elsewhere in Eastern Europe. Be aware before you arrive that the beach front north of the centre holds many empty, permanently closed hotels and hotel clubs, even though the medina and the beach areas themselves remain lively.

The climate is hot semi-arid, close to a hot-summer Mediterranean pattern, with rain falling mainly in the colder months. On safety: a terrorist attack in mid-2015 killed mostly British tourists, and the UK government still advises against all but essential travel to Tunisia as a whole, though as of August 2016 it had no stronger warning specific to Sousse. Street crime is nearly non-existent and walking alone is not dangerous at any hour, with most streets busy late into the night; some neighbourhoods may look shabby or feel unsafe, but respect for locals is returned. Expect hassle from merchants in the souk, who will show you their goods and shops — treat it as normal, stay friendly and smiling, and it is not dangerous. Women may prefer to avoid the red light area in the north-west of the medina, reached through two overlapping walls that screen the street; single women walking alone may be stared at, which is curiosity rather than threat. Most people who approach you speaking English want to sell you something — a simple "non, merci" ends the exchange before it sours.

Getting there

By air, the most convenient option is Monastir airport to the south on the coast, about 20 minutes away and frequently used by holiday charter flights. Enfidha–Hammamet Airport, on the outskirts of Enfidha, is another possibility.

Sousse sits at the centre of the Tunisian rail network, on the main line from Tunis in the north down to Sfax and Monastir in the south, which makes it well placed for reaching most of the rest of the network, as far south as Gabes on the coast and Tozeur on the edge of the Sahara. The main train station is directly north of the Medina, a short walk away, and there is also a station at Kalâa Seghira serving trains that avoid the centre. Tunisian railways give passenger traffic something of a back seat to goods, so expect modest speeds and sometimes poor rolling stock, but services are generally reliable and very cheap, even in the top class. The national railway company, SNCFT, has a workable website with timetables and fares.

By road, Highway A1 connects Sousse with Tunis and carries a toll, while National Road 1 crosses the city and links it with the south of the country and Libya; roads are in very good condition. Buses connect the city with most other parts of Tunisia: the far bus station, Gare Routière, lies some distance west of the Medina at the Souk El Ahad, while the local bus station is next to the Medina in the town centre. Buses cost slightly less than second class train tickets, but many lack air conditioning. Louages, or shared taxis, also connect Sousse with other cities and towns; the louage station is south of the Medina on Rue El Masjed El Aksa, roughly a 30-minute walk, and is well signed with prices posted by the ticket booths. Louages run frequently to and from the Tunis Moncef Bey louage station, and other destinations include Sfax, Gabes, Djerba and Monastir.

By sea, car ferries and express boats connect Sousse with Trapani in Italy, once a week in the summer months for cars and passengers, and with Mazara del Vallo via Pantelleria three times a week for passengers only; the crossing to Trapani takes up to 7–8 hours and to Mazara del Vallo about 5 hours. Private boats and yachts can use the marina at Port El Kantaoui, a resort about 12 km north of Sousse.

Getting around

Central Sousse is compact and much of it is best seen on foot: the medina is entirely pedestrian-only, a maze of narrow, twisted streets around the kasbah, the ribat fortress and the long sea wall, while the Corniche and Boujaafar Beach promenade are also pedestrian-friendly, as is the marina area at Port El Kantaoui. Local guides offer historical and cultural walking tours of the medina if you want context as you go. Away from these areas, conditions are less welcoming: there is limited dedicated bicycle infrastructure, cycling on main roads is hazardous, and you should avoid autoroutes and high-traffic commercial areas. Bicycle rental is limited, though some hotels and resorts may offer it, and offline-capable maps or navigation apps are genuinely useful here.

For the wider Sahel region, the Métro du Sahel light rail is the practical option, running from its hub at Sousse Bab Jedid by the medina to Monastir and Mahdia, with stops in southern Sousse neighbourhoods and at Monastir's Skanes airport station; buy tickets at station counters before boarding, as fares are fixed by distance, and note that older trains may not be wheelchair-accessible. Local buses run by SRT Sousse cover the city and nearby towns, with fares paid on board to the conductor and reduced frequency in the evenings and at weekends; the local bus station sits next to the medina, while the Gare Routière for long-distance routes is further west at the Souk El Ahad. Yellow licensed taxis carry a licence sticker on the windshield and are usually metered, but drivers are often reluctant to use the meter, so agree a price before getting in and make sure it is not per person — ask at your hotel reception if you are unsure what a reasonable fare should be, and if you do use the meter, insist it is reset to the standing charge and on the correct setting for the time of day, since rates are higher at night. Shared taxis, or louages, are large cars or minibuses that leave when full, cost a fraction of a regular taxi and connect Sousse with most bigger towns; colour coding tells them apart, with yellow and a blue stripe for nearby destinations, white with a red stripe for inter-city routes, and white with red, black, blue and yellow stripes for the greater Sousse area including Akouda, Hammam Sousse, Port El Kantaoui and Chott Mariem, all leaving from the Station Louage, best reached by ordinary taxi. Bolt operates in Sousse for app-based rides with transparent pricing, while Uber is generally not widely operational in Tunisia. Tuk-tuks and mini-trains make a fun, shared ride to Port El Kantaoui, setting off when full, and horse-drawn carriages offer another leisurely option if you bargain. Carry small Tunisian dinar notes and coins, and if you plan to drive, note that rental companies typically require a minimum age plus an International Driving Permit alongside your national licence, that driving is on the right, and that motorcycle and scooter rental is uncommon for tourists.

Where to stay

Food & drink

Eating out in Sousse is generally inexpensive, and you don't have to negotiate prices. For a budget meal, try Restaurant du Peuple next to Hotel de Paris, where the couscous comes with a salad starter and finishes with watermelon and tea. In the hotel area, Plan B on Avenue Taïeb Mehiri, near Riadh Palms Hotel and opposite Tej Merhaba Hotel, is a modern, clean burger place with cheap, juicy sandwiches and burgers served with french fries; it draws plenty of local teenagers in the afternoons. For something mid-range, Restaurant Lido by the port, opposite the 'pirate' ships, does excellent fish — a spiced and grilled fish fresh from the port, with beer available alongside.

Tap water is generally not harmful, though most visitors prefer the bottled water sold everywhere; non-carbonated "mineral water" is the most popular, while sparkling water is ordered as water with gas or by the brand Garci. Tea is the local favourite, with mint tea (au menthe) and almond tea (aux ammandes) among the specialties at the town's many cafes and restaurants, often drunk alongside a chicha. You may even be offered tea while buying higher-value items in the souk. Alcohol is harder to find and relatively expensive: some cafes and stores sell wine and local Celtia beer, while hard liquor is mostly limited to hotel bars and the state-owned Magasin General supermarkets, and none is sold on Fridays. Sousse has some of Tunisia's more animated nightlife, mostly in high season, ranging from upscale bars, clubs and discos to local-oriented cabarets. Venues include the Living/Banana/Saloon disco in the hotel zone near Samara hotel and Movenpick, the more sophisticated Be One/B1 club in Port Kantaoui near Houria Palace hotel and Vincci Resort, and the classy Edge bar at Cesar Palace hotel on Avenue 14 Janvier near Les Oliviers — dress smart for the first two.

What to see and do

Almost everything worth seeing in Sousse sits inside the medina, so plan to spend your time wandering its labyrinth. The western residential quarters are the most rewarding to get lost in, and signboards mark out a "cultural walk" if you would rather follow a route. As the medina climbs onto higher ground on its western side, you are rewarded with views out over the sea.

• Grand Mosque of Sousse – A surprisingly tranquil place given its central location. Built in the Aghlabite style, it is simple and austere, with no decoration beyond a string of angular Arabic and curved arches; even the prayer room is laid with reed mats rather than carpet. Dress properly to enter, though traditional dress is available to cover up.
• Sousse Ribat – A fortified holy site reached via the square north of the mosque. Climb to the top of the watch tower for fantastic views over the medina.
• Sousse Archaeological Museum – Housed in the gently crumbling old Kasbah on the south-western edge of the medina, with entrance from outside the city walls. Its collection of mosaics and Roman-era artefacts is among the country's finest.
• Musee Dar Essid – A charming small museum just inside the old city walls, once the home of a long-standing Tunisian family. Rooms open off a central courtyard, including the bedrooms of the first and second wife and the children's rooms, all fully furnished with old curtains and imported clocks. Its tower, used to watch the stars for the onset of Ramadan, gives views over Sousse from higher than the Ribat, and there is a small cafe area with fine views.
• The Sousse Catacombs – An underground Christian necropolis created in the 1st century, closed for reconstruction.
• Eglise St Felix and Synagogue Keter Torah.

For something more active, you can play golf, though the nearest courses are in Port El Kantaoui and Monastir rather than in Sousse itself. Walking around the fishing boats at the port is a pleasant way to pass the time, and families with children may enjoy a trip on one of the 'pirate' ships, which offer fishing and other nautical activities.

When to go

Sousse has a hot semi-arid climate that sits close to Mediterranean patterns, with rain concentrated in the colder months. If you want the driest conditions, plan your trip outside that colder stretch, when wet days are far less likely and rain is scarce.

Expect the coolest weather of the year during the wetter months, along with a greater chance of rain than at any other time. In the warmer months, the defining feature for a visitor is summer heat, so build your days around it and take the heat seriously when you are out exploring.

Three days in Sousse

Day one: Base yourself in Sousse and start with the Medina, the walled heart of the city where you can wander the lanes and get your bearings. From there the Gulf and the Mediterranean Sea are close at hand, so plan an afternoon on the sand. In August expect warm and humid conditions, and note that most women in Tunisia dress modestly, so light clothing that covers shoulders and knees will serve you well. English is not widely spoken, so a few words of Tunisian Arabic or French help.

Day two: Use Sousse as your launch point for the wider Sousse Governorate. Head north to Hammamet for a change of scene, or south toward Monastir and Sfax if you want more time on the coast. If you are arriving or leaving by air, Monastir and Enfidha airports are the practical gateways, with Hammamet Airport serving the northern resorts. Tunis is also within reach if you want a day in the capital.

Day three: Look inland and south. Kalâa Seghira sits just outside Sousse and makes an easy half-day trip. Further afield, Gabes, Tozeur and the Sahara reward a longer journey if you have the time, while the Universit area of Sousse gives you a sense of everyday city life. Visitors come here from Britain, Germany, Russia, Serbia, Croatia and elsewhere in Eastern Europe, so you will not lack company, but the Medina and the Gulf remain the reason most people return.