Bnei Brak
Introduction
Bnei Brak, also written Bene Beraq, sits on Israel's central Mediterranean coastal plain, just east of Tel Aviv. It is a centre of Haredi Judaism, and that character shapes nearly everything you will encounter as a visitor.
The city covers a small area and is built up very densely, so expect narrow, crowded streets and a pace set by its residents rather than by tourism. Plan your visit around the rhythms of a religious city, and treat the neighbourhoods you pass through as places where people live and pray rather than as sights laid out for you.
Getting there
From Ben-Gurion Airport, the simplest option is a taxi. Buses are possible, but there is no direct bus to Bnei Brak, so you would need to change in Tel Aviv or Ramat Gan. Alternatively, take the train from the airport to Tel Aviv HaMerkaz (Central Station) and switch to a bus there.
From Tel Aviv, take Dan city buses 240 or 160. From Jerusalem, take Egged/Dan intercity bus 400 from the Tachanah Merkazit (Central Bus Station), which leaves every 10 to 15 minutes, or bus 402, which is faster and runs mainly through the chareidi neighborhoods of Jerusalem. Bnei Brak is also served by the Bnei Brak – Ramat HaHayal railway station.
Getting around
Bnei Brak sits in the middle of the Gush Dan metropolitan area, east of Tel Aviv, west of Petah Tikva, north of Ramat Gan and south of Ramat HaSharon, so it is well connected to the surrounding region. Local buses across Gush Dan, including Bnei Brak, are run by the Dan Bus Company, and many routes pass through the city because of its central position. Within Bnei Brak itself there are some local city bus lines for getting around. From Tel Aviv, take Dan city buses 240 or 160.
The Tel Aviv Light Rail Red Line is planned to pass through Bnei Brak as an underground system. Bnei Brak Railway Station is served by trains on the suburban Kfar Saba to Rishon LeZion line, but the station sits a fair distance from the city centre and is therefore less accessible. Taxis are available for travel within and into the city. If you are driving, the city's eastern border is marked by Highway 4, and to the west it is easily reached from the Ayalon Highway, making it convenient by car from surrounding areas.
From Ben-Gurion Airport, a taxi is the best option. Buses are possible, but there is no direct bus from the airport to Bnei Brak, so you would change buses in Tel Aviv or Ramat Gan. Alternatively, take a train from the airport to Tel Aviv HaMerkaz (Central Station) and switch to a bus there. From Jerusalem, take Egged/Dan intercity bus 400 from the Tachanah Merkazit (Central Bus Station), which leaves every 10 to 15 minutes; bus 402 is faster and goes mainly through the chareidi neighborhoods of Jerusalem.
Where to stay
If you want to stay overnight in Bnei Brak itself, you won't find hotels in the city. Instead, look for accommodation in the surrounding suburbs nearby. One option is Judith's Place on Negba Road in Ramat Gan, an apartment that sleeps three in its family suite. It comes with a balcony, air conditioning, BBQ facilities, a kitchen, laundry and free wifi, and extra beds are available for a fee. The apartment is somewhat dated and expensive, so weigh it against other suburban options before booking.Food & drink
Bnei Brak is one of the cheapest places in Israel to buy food, whether you're after fast food or supermarket goods, though the quality is generally unremarkable. The most interesting eating happens on Thursday nights, as the city prepares for Shabbat. Cholent, the classic Ashkenazi Shabbat stew left cooking all night so there's hot food for Shabbat day when cooking is forbidden, is the dish to seek out. You can buy it before Shabbat to save yourself the trouble of cooking, or do as the local youth do and eat it on Thursday night while chatting with friends. Several cholent restaurants open on Thursday nights, often recognisable by the line stretching out the door, and things tend to get busy after 9pm, so come late.
For baked goods, two names stand out. Viznitz bakery is famous for its challah, baked and sold on Thursday night in preparation for Shabbat; it's incredibly delicious, especially freshly baked, and even if you're not eating it's worth visiting to see the variety of types and sizes, smell the aroma of baking, and mingle with the crowds of locals for whom the trip is an event. The bakery has built its reputation over the last 70 years, and payment is reportedly cash only. Hatzvi bakery, on the corner of Rabbi Akiva and Rashi Streets on the side towards Chazon Ish Street, is cheap and sells excellent baked goods; it's part of a chain, and this is one of its more central locations. As for drinking, the local population doesn't party in the secular sense, but if you're in town for Purim or get invited to a wedding or other festivity, you can expect a good time, with separate-sex dancing and the odd l'chaim.
What to see and do
South of Jabotinsky Road, the main traffic artery, lies the Haredi area of the city, where you can experience a distinctly Israeli atmosphere on foot. Dress respectfully if you go: long sleeves, full pants, and a head cover are recommended. On Shabbat, from Friday night through Saturday, avoid openly using electronic devices, riding a bicycle, or making noise in this area. For a family stop, the Coca-Cola factory sits next to Route 4 on the northwest corner of the Givat Shmuel interchange, its façade lettered "Coca-Cola" in Hebrew. Tours run by reservation and tend to appeal to kids, though there is a minimum age of around 7 or 8. Rabbi Akiva street, running mostly east–west, serves as the city's downtown and its biggest shopping and transportation destination. If you're looking for an activity, Try2Esc on Hayarkon 39 offers Jewish-themed escape games.Three days in Bnei Brak
Day one: Arrive in Israel and make your way to Bnei Brak, a city in the Gush Dan area whose character is shaped by Haredi Judaism. From Ben Gurion Airport, buses and taxis connect you onward; alternatively, reach Tel Aviv HaMerkaz Central Station and continue by Dan or Egged services, or come from Jerusalem via the Tachanah Merkazit Central Bus Station. Once you are within Bnei Brak, orient yourself on foot and let the rhythm of the streets set your pace.
Day two: Use the Tel Aviv Light Rail Red Line and Bnei Brak Railway Station to move between the city and its neighbours. Local Dan Bus Company routes link Bnei Brak with Ramat Gan, Petah Tikva, Ramat HaSharon, Kfar Saba and Rishon LeZion, while the Ayalon Highway and other highways carry you further afield. If you prefer, taxis are available; otherwise stay within Bnei Brak and spend the day among its neighbourhoods.
Day three: Head toward Tel Aviv and the Mediterranean coast, passing Ramat HaHayal and Ramat Gan along the way. From Tel Aviv, buses and the rail network let you continue to Jerusalem or back toward the airport. Plan your departure around the Dan and Egged services, or take a taxi, so that your final hours in Bnei Brak and the surrounding Gush Dan area end without hurry.