Debrecen travel guide

Debrecen, Hungary

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Debrecen

Introduction

Debrecen is the second city of Hungary and the regional centre of the Northern Great Plain, as well as the seat of Hajdú-Bihar County. It holds county rights, and it has long been one of the Hungarian people's most important cultural centres — in the 18th century it was the largest Hungarian city.

The city's place in the national story is unusually weighty. Debrecen served as the capital of Hungary during the revolution of 1848–1849, when the dethronement of the Habsburg dynasty was declared in the Reformed Great Church, and again at the end of World War II in 1944–1945. It is also home to the University of Debrecen.

Before you go

Debrecen sits on the Great Hungarian Plain, a flat landscape with no mountains, forests or water nearby, and locals have long joked about why anyone would build a city in such a spot. It is one of Hungary's largest cities, and its character was shaped by its history as a Calvinist stronghold once known as "The Calvinist Rome". The Great Church (Nagytemplom) still stands as a reminder of that heritage, and the university's main building is another landmark worth seeking out.

Before you go, it helps to know that the city's sights are tied to this religious and academic past rather than to natural scenery. Tourist information is available at Tourinform Debrecen on Piac u., where you can pick up souvenirs and buy tickets for events; note that it closes on Sundays and keeps shorter hours on Saturdays, with slightly longer weekday opening in July and August.

Getting there

Debrecen Airport (DEB) sits about 5 km southwest of the centre and is small, with a cafe and car rental kiosks inside. There is no currency exchange office, only EuroNet ATMs whose rates are notably poor and carry an extra exchange fee, so arrive with cash or a card you are happy to use. Free WiFi is available. The airport is served by a handful of flights a day from several European cities, most of them operated by the budget airline Wizzair, with routes including London-Luton, Eindhoven, Milan-Bergamo, Paris-Beauvais, Malmö and Ben Gurion, plus Lufthansa flights to Munich; charter flights also arrive regularly. To reach the centre, take the airport bus, which stops at the city centre, the train station and the bus station, or a taxi.

Trains run roughly hourly from Budapest Nyugati Station, a journey of about 2½ hours, and there are also services from Eger (usually requiring at least one change), Karcag, Nyíregyháza and Szerencs, the last of these mostly involving a change at Nyíregyháza. The railway station is on Petőfi tér. Buses connect Debrecen with Eger, Karcag, Nyíregyháza and Szerencs, the last requiring a change at Tokaj or Miskolc. The bus station on Külső Vásártér is a run-down building with no currency exchange, WiFi or card terminals, so bring cash for tickets. By car, the M35 motorway links the city to the national highway system; from Budapest, follow the M3 towards Nyíregyháza and then the M35, a drive of about two hours. A highway toll applies and must be paid in advance, typically at petrol stations. Main road 4 is somewhat shorter but is often overcrowded and has a poor accident record, so it is not recommended.

Getting around

Debrecen is compact enough that you can cover much of it on foot, and the city centre has plenty of pleasant streets and pedestrian areas. Nagyerdő, the Big Forest, is a particularly beautiful place to walk, though the quality of streets varies from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, so it pays to be selective about where you wander.

Public transport is run by DKV and covers the city with trams, trolleybuses and buses. Buy local tickets rather than relying on Budapest ones, which are not valid here. The tram is the handiest option for sightseeing: it starts at the railway station, runs along the main street, passes the Great Church, continues to the Old Forest, Zoo, Theme Park and Public Bath, then loops around the universities before heading back, so a single ticket from the station gives you a cheap tour of the city's highlights. Buses are useful for reaching nearby places quickly, and trolleybuses fill in other parts of the network. Taxis are available from Bolt, City Taxi Debrecen and Főnix Taxi, all with mobile apps. Roads are fine if you drive, but given how small the city is, walking and public transport will usually serve you better.

Where to stay

Debrecen's accommodation ranges from university and church-run hostels to grand hotels in the centre. On Egyetem tér you'll find a hostel run by the university and the Kölcsey Ferenc Reformed Teacher Training College, and the Reformed College on Kálvin tér also operates a hostel in the centre. For a quieter base outside town, the Dorcas Center & Camping at Erdőspuszta, southeast of the city, offers bungalows, a motel, cottages and a camping area.

Food & drink

For a quick bite in the city centre, you'll find budget spots such as Blaháné Étterem on Blaháné utca, gyros at Himalája Gyros on Vár utca and Byblos Gyros on Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca, and Pizza Fortuna on Péterfia utca. Just outside the centre, Kínai Laci-Konyha on Arany János utca serves Chinese food. There are also lots of nice cafes near the Great Church.

Mid-range choices include Melange Étterem on Csapó utca, known for its fine food and impressive decor, and Csokonai Étterem on Kossuth utca, a Hungarian-style steak house directly opposite the Csokonai Szinház opera house. Flaska Vendéglő on Miklós utca, by the Apollo movie theatre, serves nice Hungarian dishes, while Mandula Confectionary on Ember Pál utca is one of the best bakeries in town. For Indian food, try Kashmir Restaurant at the Péterfia street corner, or Govinda Vegetarian Restaurant on Magyari utca, open for lunch only and the closest you'll get in the city to homemade Indian cuisine. Korzó Ételbár & pizzéria on Hatvan utca, on the left side of the Great Church, is a small fast food place with quick, polite service, a big terrace, card payment and English spoken. For drinks, head to Calico Jack Pub on Bem tér, Palma Pub on Simonyi út near the University, or Roncs on Csapó utca, a wreck pub that's a cool place for a drink. Around Hal köz, the old fish market near the main square, you'll find good places too.

What to see and do

Start at the Nagytemplom, Debrecen's most recognisable building and the centrepiece of what was once called "Calvinist Rome". You can tour the interior and climb the tower to see the Rákóczi bell, the largest bell in Hungary, along with fine views over the city. Note that the church closes during services and official programmes. The Déri Museum, right behind the Great Church, is worth a trip in its own right: it holds a national collection with a nature display of the region's animal life, historical items from the area, and a gallery of Hungarian art, most famously Mihály Munkácsy's Christ trilogy. Beyond these two, the city's other museums depend on how much Hungarian art interests you.

Most of the major attractions cluster in the city park, the Nagyerdő, where you can easily spend a pleasant afternoon. Elsewhere, the city rewards wandering between its churches and monuments: the neo-Gothic Veres Church, named for the red bricks on its front walls, with murals unusual in Reformed churches; the Lutheran Church, the only one in the city; the Greek Catholic Church with its inlaid altar and pulpit; and St. Anne's Cathedral, whose altarpieces, carvings and ceiling frescoes reward a look. Statues and memorials are scattered through the centre, on Kálvin tér, Déri square, Kossuth Square and around the university.

When to go

Debrecen has a humid continental climate, so your choice of season shapes the trip considerably. Summer is warm and humid, with frequent rain; July is both the hottest and the wettest month, so pack for damp, sticky days if you visit then. This is also the liveliest stretch of the year, which makes the rain a fair trade for atmosphere.

Winter is the opposite: cold and dry, with January the coldest and driest month. Expect cold days and low precipitation, meaning snow is possible but rainfall is scarce. If you prefer crisp, quiet conditions over humid heat, the winter months suit you better.

Three days in Debrecen

Day one: Start in the centre of Debrecen, a city on the Great Hungarian Plain in the Northern Great Plain region of Hungary. Begin at the Reformed Great Church, also known as the Great Church or Nagytemplom, the symbol of the city and of its Calvinist heritage - Debrecen is often called "The Calvinist Rome". From there, explore the surrounding streets and the main square, and stop by Tourinform Debrecen for orientation. In the afternoon, walk toward the University area to get a sense of student life in the city.

Day two: Spend the morning learning about the city's history, including its Habsburg past and the impact of World War II. Continue with the religious and cultural threads that run through Debrecen, from its Calvinist roots to its role in the region. In the afternoon, wander the market area - the Piac - which is liveliest on Saturdays and Sundays, and browse the stalls for local produce and crafts.

Day three: Use the day to slow down and take in everyday life on the Great Hungarian Plain. If you are visiting in July or August, expect warm, sunny weather and plan your walks for the cooler parts of the day. Debrecen Airport (DEB) is served by European carriers such as Wizzair, with routes from London Luton, Eindhoven, Milan Bergamo, Paris Beauvais and Malmö, making the city easy to reach for a short break. Before you leave, check practicalities such as EuroNet ATMs and free WiFi in the centre.

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