Coban

Before you go

Cobán sits at altitude in the Sierra de Caasanmac, on the Caavon River, and its climate reflects that setting rather than the heat of the lowlands. Plan for cool, damp conditions in the surrounding hills and cloud forest, and pack layers you can add or shed through the day.

• The city is the centre of verapas coffee and cardamom production, and its markets and economy also turn on coffee, bananas, cacao, vanilla, spices, grains and livestock — expect those flavours in what you eat and drink.
• It is connected by rail and highway to Guatemala City, roughly 210 km to the south.
• Founded in 1543 by Dominican priests near a Mayan site, the city takes its name from the Indian chief Kobau.
• Every August the city holds a festival, so time your visit around it if you want to be there for it — or avoid it if you want quieter streets.

What draws researchers and travellers to the region is its preserved natural wealth: more than 650 types of orchids, cloud forests, lakes, caves and waterfalls. Nearby you can see the Ercalvario Cathedral, built in the early 17th century, Mayan sites with pyramids and friezes, a 60-metre natural bridge over the Langkin River, and a vast underground cave network of stalagmites and stalactites where blind white fish live. Bring footwear and gear suited to wet, uneven ground if you intend to explore any of it.

Getting there

From Guatemala City, the usual route to Coban is the Monja Blanca bus service, which leaves from near Plaza Barrios and takes about four hours. Competing lines and pricier shuttles cover the same ground. The journey itself is part of the appeal: the road climbs through mountains dotted with Mayan villages.

• From the Western Highlands, microbuses link Quiche, Sacapulas, Uspantin and Coban, though you will likely change buses in each town. The stretch between Uspantin and Coban is only partly paved and rough in places, and the trip involves waiting for connections.
• From Panajachel, a chain of chicken buses and collectivos runs via Solola, Santa Cruz del Quiche (Quiche) and Uspantin to Coban, a long day of travel.
• Transportes Monja Blanca, 2a Calle 3-77, is the bus station for the main line serving Guatemala City.

Getting around

Cobán is a relatively walkable city in terms of its size, so many local destinations are within reasonable reach on foot. That said, sidewalk conditions are poor, so watch your step. Drivers in Cobán tend to take the right of way, so always assume a car will not stop for you and cross with care.

• For destinations around Cobán itself, local buses leave from in front of Plaza Magdalena.
• Colectivo buses run from Cobán to nearby villages such as Tactic and San Francisco, making them useful for day trips into the countryside.
• Taxis are an easy way to get almost anywhere around town, and a typical in-town ride is inexpensive. Only use taxis marked with a taxi number on the door — unmarked cars are not licensed to operate as taxis, so avoid them. Stick to numbered, licensed taxis, especially at night.
• Cobán has no rail, metro, or tram network, so plan your travel around road-based transport instead.
• Keep small change handy for colectivos and taxis.

If you are arriving from Guatemala City, the most common option is the Monja Blanca bus service, which departs from near Plaza Barrios in the capital and takes roughly four hours; competitors run the same route, and more expensive shuttle services are also available. Buy your ticket at the station in Cobán or arrange it in Guatemala City before departure. From the Western Highlands, regular microbuses run from Quiché through Sacapulas and Uspantán to Cobán, and you will likely need to change buses in each town along the way — there is no single through-service. The road between Uspantán and Cobán is only paved about halfway and has some rough stretches, so allow extra time. From Panajachel, you can string together a series of chicken buses and colectivos via Sololá, Santa Cruz del Quiché and Uspantán; this is a long, multi-leg journey, so plan for a full day of travel. Allow generous time for road travel overall, since mountain routes can be slow and, in places, unpaved.

Where to stay

Most travellers spend only a night or two in Coban, so you won't need to plan a long stay. The most popular choice is Casa d'Acuna, a relatively inexpensive and reliable hostel. You'll also find a number of small hotels around the main plaza, most of them comparable in price.

• De La Abuela — the newest hotel and restaurant, on a hill on the main road as you enter Coban; its bedrooms and bungalows suit families and large groups.
• La Paz Hotel — pretty, relatively quiet, with friendly staff and as much security as you could want.
• B&B Rooms — next to La Paz, a dorm-type place run by a Mexican-American, with low prices and a cool ambience.
• Los Faroles Hotel — very beautiful, with personalized, welcoming and very friendly service.
• The Park Hotel — 15 minutes south of Coban, towards Guatemala City.

Two places are best avoided: the Hotel Familiar, which is filthy, and the Tourist Information Office, which is actually a hotel and restaurant selling information you don't really need. Other hotels away from the centre are hardly worth hunting down for the prices.

Food & drink

For traditional cooking and fresh seafood, head to De La Abuela, a hotel and restaurant whose specialty is its barbecue ribs. You can eat outdoors on either of the two levels, both surrounded by greenery, and the atmosphere and service are friendly.

• Al Carbon d'Fiora serves good burgers as a local alternative to the big fast-food chains, along with grilled steak. The food is good and the place is hygienic, though the atmosphere is nothing fancy. It sits on Calle Minerva, a few blocks inward toward downtown from Plaza Magdalena.

For drinking, Cobán has many cantinas all over town where locals drink cheaply; they are usually associated with trouble and are not very nice or clean. Most restaurants serve wine, beer and a few locally known cocktails at slightly higher prices than the cantinas. Be wary at the discos too, even where they look nicer than the cantinas. That said, there are some nicer places in town to go out for a drink.

What to see and do

Three days in Coban

Day one: Base yourself in Cobán and get your bearings around the centre. Start at Plaza Barrios, the main square, and visit Ercalvario Cathedral nearby. The city sits in the Sierra, surrounded by the Western Highlands, and the climate is cool and often misty. Founded by Dominican friars in the colonial era, Cobán retains a strong Mayan and Indian heritage, and you will hear Quiche, Sacapulas and Uspantin spoken in the markets. In the afternoon, walk to Plaza Magdalena for a sense of everyday city life.

Day two: Take a colectivo to Tactic, a nearby town, and use it as a base for exploring the Caavon River and the Langkin River. The rivers cut through the Sierra and the surrounding hills are green and humid. Bring rain gear, as the area is wet for much of the year. If you want a longer excursion, you can travel from Panajachel via Solola and Santa Cruz, or from Guatemala City, but for a three-day trip the closer towns are more practical.

Day three: Head to Plan and the surrounding countryside, where the Monja Blanca, Guatemala's national flower, grows. The orchid is a symbol of the region and appears in local crafts. Competing transport options include Transportes Monja Blanca and other services along the Calle, and drivers can be hired for the day. Every August the city celebrates its patron festival, but at any time of year the mix of highland scenery, Mayan culture and colonial architecture makes Cobán a rewarding stop.