Constantine
Introduction
Constantine — also spelled Qacentina or Kasantina — is the capital of its province in northeastern Algeria, set somewhat inland about 80 kilometres from the Mediterranean coast. The city sits on the banks of the Rhumel River.
Its history reaches back to Roman times, when it was known as Cirta; it was later renamed Constantina in honour of Emperor Constantine the Great.
Before you go
Before you go, it helps to know what you are looking at: Constantine is a city of three millennia, its ancient core listed as an Algerian national heritage site since 2004. Long before the Romans arrived, a Berber city called Cirta sat on a plateau ringed by deep ravines, capital of the ancient kingdom of Numidia. The Romans renamed it in 313 AD in honour of Constantine the Great, and the modern Arabic name descends from that Roman one; because Arabic script has no unique vowel characters, you will also see it romanized as Qacentina or Kasantina. Over the centuries it passed through Numidian, Roman, Vandal, Byzantine, Arab, Ottoman and French hands, and much of the historic Islamic architecture you will see dates from the rule of Salah Bey ben Mostefa in the late 18th century. The city was named Arab Capital of Culture in 2015. On safety, Constantine is generally considered safe, and common sense will head off almost all problems. Try to look as little like a tourist as possible, avoid flashing large quantities of cash, and keep your valuables out of sight, as pick-pocketing and motor-drive-by theft are more of an issue here. Faux guides are less of a problem than elsewhere in Algeria and are mostly limited to the area around the city. It is inadvisable to walk alone at night. Solo women should dress modestly to avoid harassment, which almost always takes the form of lewd comments rather than anything physical.Getting there
Mohamed Boudiaf Airport (CZL) is the main airport serving Constantine, located about 12 km from the city centre. It has direct flights from a range of European and North African cities, including Istanbul, Paris (both CDG and Orly), Lyon, Marseille, Nice, Basel, Lille, Strasbourg, Montpellier, Charleroi, and Tunis, with seasonal services from Toulouse and Nancy. If you prefer to arrive by rail, Constantine's railway station sits near the city centre and connects to several other Algerian destinations.
By road, the distance to Algiers is 318 km as the crow flies, though the actual road distance is closer to 400 km. Regular buses run from Algiers (around 5 hours) and Sétif (around 2 hours). Buses and shared taxis from Sétif arrive at the Gare Routière Ouest, south of town, where a nearby tram stop can carry you roughly halfway to the old town if you ride it to the terminus. Transport from Batna arrives at the Gare Routière Est, about 1 km north-east of the west bus station. For arrivals by sea, several Mediterranean ports lie within reach: Skikda (80 km away) and Annaba (150 km) both connect to Marseille, while Bejaia and Tunis (each 250 km) and Algiers (450 km) offer further links to France, Italy, and Spain.
Getting around
Constantine sits on a plateau cut by the Rhumel gorge, so its centre, old town, bus stations and tram line are spread across different levels and neighbourhoods. Most visitors end up combining walking with the tram, buses or taxis rather than relying on a single mode. The main arrival points — the railway station, the bus stations and the tram — are reasonably well connected to each other.
- Tram: A single long line runs from south of the city centre, passes the Emir Abd Elkader mosque and the Gare Routière Ouest, then crosses the river. Buy tickets at a kiosk near the stops rather than on board. It is the simplest way to connect the western bus station and the southern part of the city with the centre.
- Trains: The Gare de Constantine sits near the city centre and links to several destinations elsewhere in Algeria, so you can usually reach central accommodation on foot or with a short taxi ride.
- Buses: Long-distance services arrive from Algiers and Sétif, while transport from Batna arrives at a different station. The Gare Routière Ouest is next to the tram stop "Zone Industrielle Boussof" and handles buses and shared taxis, including services from Sétif. The Gare Routière Est lies about a kilometre north-east of it; from there, expect to use a taxi or a local bus to reach the tram or the centre.
- Taxis: Flexible for the hilly stretches and for trips between the two bus stations, which are close but not conveniently linked on foot with luggage. Shared taxis are based at the Gare Routière Ouest.
- Walking: Rewarding but demanding, with steep gradients, bridges and changes in level. The old town and central areas are best explored on foot, but do not assume you can comfortably walk between all the main points — the two bus stations are about a kilometre apart, and the tram only partly covers the distance from its terminus to the old town. Comfortable shoes and a willingness to take a taxi or the tram for longer or steeper legs will make the city much easier to enjoy.
From Mohamed Boudiaf Airport, which lies outside the centre, arrange a taxi or transfer in advance; if you prefer public transport, you will generally need to reach the tram or bus network in the city first.
Where to stay
Constantine's accommodation is concentrated in the city centre, with the Grand Hotel Cirta a four-star option in the middle of things. Note that it has been closed for renovation, so check its status before planning around it. The Novotel and the Ibis are the closest places to stay to the Casbah, the old city, which makes them a practical base if exploring that quarter is your priority.
For a five-star stay, the Hotel Marriott Constantine is the other main choice in the city.
Food & drink
For cheap eats, try the local pizza, which differs from what you may know elsewhere in Algeria: in Constantine it usually comes topped with tuna, chicken, cheese, or vegetables, and pizzerias tend to serve harisa, a spicy sauce, or mayonnaise instead of ketchup and mustard. Barbecue, known locally as shewa, covers grilled meat or vegetables and can be ordered as a sandwich. In the mid-range, look for bouzelouf, a popular meal of meat, chickpeas, and tomato soup found in the city centre, and finish with baklava — pronounced baklawa by locals — a layered filo pastry filled with chopped nuts and sweetened with syrup or honey, usually served in cafeterias. For a splurge, order couscous, steamed durum wheat semolina served with vegetables and a portion of meat, or shakshuka, eggs gently poached in a chunky tomato and bell pepper sauce that works for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. To drink, try tea with mint, called atay by locals, or leben, a heavy milk that looks like liquified yoghurt.What to see and do
Constantine's setting is the attraction: the city is framed by a deep ravine, giving it a dramatic, picturesque appearance, and a network of bridges and a viaduct crosses the gorge. Chief among them is the Sidi M'Cid bridge, also called Gantaret El Hibal, a suspension bridge that was once the highest in the world and is a spot where you can bungee jump. For gentler views, walk the pedestrian Passerelle Slimane Mellah, which links the old town to the train and bus station and wobbles underfoot as you cross, or take in the prospect from the Bab El Kantra bridge. The futuristic Salah Bey Viaduct spans the Rhummel gorge and is often called the "eighth wonder" of a city known for its bridges; note that the Devil's Bridge is little more than a thin piece of wood.
Within the city you can visit the Gustave Mercier Museum, with displays of ancient and modern art, the Ben-Badis Mosque, the Casbah, the Emir Abdel Kader University and Mosque, the Palace of Ahmed Bey, and the ruins of the Antonian Roman aqueduct. South of the centre, the Emir Abd Elkader Mosque stands with a large park, and the Théâtre Régional de Constantine Mohamed Tahar Fergani and the large Bois de la Légion d'Honneur park are also here. Further afield, the Soumma Mausoleum at Khroub, the Roman city of Tiddis, and the megalithic monuments and burial grounds at Djebel Mazala Salluste make worthwhile excursions.
Three days in Constantine
Day one: Start in the old city, where Constantine's history layers from the Numidian and Roman era through the Arab and Ottoman periods to the French colonial years. Walk the streets once known as Cirta, renamed Constantina for Emperor Constantine, and take in the views over the Rhumel River. In the evening, try the local dish known as faux, a couscous preparation.
- Old city streets and the Rhumel River viewpoints
- Faux for an evening meal
Day two: Look deeper into the city's past, from the Berber and Numidian kingdom through Vandal, Byzantine, Arab, Ottoman and French rule to the Islamic present. The name Qacentina, or Kasantina, is still used for the city. Spend the day around the historic quarters associated with figures such as Salah Bey and Mostefa.
Day three: Take in the wider setting above the Rhumel River and the Mediterranean-facing north of Algeria. If you are travelling on, Mohamed Boudiaf Airport is the city's air link. Constantine has held the title of Arab Capital of Culture, so leave time for its cultural life before you go.