Ostrava
Introduction
Ostrava sits in the north-east of the Czech Republic, close to the Polish border, and serves as the capital of the Moravian-Silesian Region. It lies at the confluence of four rivers — the Oder, Opava, Ostravice and Lučina — and straddles the historic border between Moravia and Silesia, making it the largest city in the historical land of Czech Silesia and the second largest in Moravia.
The wider conurbation, which also takes in the towns of Bohumín, Havířov, Karviná, Orlová, Petřvald and Rychvald, forms the largest urban area in the country outside Prague. Within the city itself, you'll find a place shaped by its position between two historic lands and by the rivers that meet here.
Before you go
Ostrava grew from a small provincial town into one of the region's largest cities after extensive coal deposits were discovered in the area in the 18th century, and it became a major steel manufacturing centre. That industrial past shaped the city you'll encounter today: it suffered heavy destruction during the Second World War and has long carried a reputation as one of the most polluted cities in the European Union. Set your expectations accordingly, and think of the city as an industrial place with a character of its own rather than a polished tourist destination.
Before you arrive, it helps to know that Ostrava has a surprisingly large number of tourist information centres for a city of its size. They are called Ostrava Info, and you'll find one at each of the main train stations, Ostrava hl.n. and Ostrava-Svinov, plus two more downtown, one at the new City Hall and one at the Elektra transit station. On safety, Ostrava remains a quiet and pleasant city, but locals will tell you that many areas have gained a reputation for widespread drug consumption, so stay alert to your surroundings.
Getting there
Ostrava is well connected by rail, with two main stations: Ostrava hl.n. in the north and Ostrava-Svinov at the far western end of the city. Fast and international trains call at both, though neither is within walking distance of the historic centre; a few trains also stop at Ostrava-Stodolní, right next to the old town. From Prague, Czech Railway's IC/EC services take about 3½ hours and run every two hours, while the SC Pendolino covers the trip in roughly 3 hours with a compulsory reservation. RegioJet also runs several trains a day on the same route. Direct connections reach Brno, Olomouc, Katowice, Warsaw, Poprad, Vienna, Bratislava, Žilina, Krakow and Budapest. On cross-border routes, look out for split-ticket deals, and buying online or in advance usually works out cheaper.
By bus, the main terminal is Ostrava ÚAN, with Student Agency running several services a day from Brno and Leo Express linking Ostrava-Svinov with Katowice in Poland; FlixBus also operates from the central bus station. Local bus lines are served from Hranečník, which provides trams into the city centre. Leoš Janáček Airport Ostrava has Ryanair flights from London Stansted and LOT flights from Warsaw, with hourly buses running to the city centre through the main bus station, plus a train to the main railway station. Many travellers instead fly to Katowice Pyrzowice Airport in Poland, about an hour away by motorway, which has direct connections across Europe and Asia and is served by FlixBus.
Getting around
Trams and buses are the default way to get around Ostrava. The network is run by Dopravní podnik Ostrava and is fast, frequent and inexpensive, with trams the most useful option for reaching the city centre and local bus lines feeding into them — buses from Hranečník, for example, connect with trams heading into the centre. Note that the main bus station, Ostrava ÚAN, is a separate hub from the tram network, so you may need a short connecting trip. Walking works well for the historic centre and its immediate surroundings, but not for the city as a whole: Ostrava is large and spread out, with districts separated by rivers and former industrial land, and neither of the two main railway stations is within walking distance of the historic centre.
- Buy your ticket by tapping a credit card on the ticket machine onboard the vehicle; the machines have an English menu.
- A 10-minute ticket allows no transfers, and the fare is calculated when you tap to board and again when you exit.
- A 60-minute ticket includes transfers; tap only when boarding each vehicle, not when exiting.
- If your trips in one day exceed the cost of a 24-hour ticket, your charge for that day is capped at the 24-hour ticket price, so you can tap as you go without overpaying.
Ostrava has two main railway stations — Ostrava hl.n. in the north and Ostrava-Svinov at the far western end — both served by fast and international trains, with direct services to Prague, Brno, Olomouc, Katowice, Warsaw and onward to Poprad, Vienna, Bratislava, Žilina, Kraków and Budapest. A few trains also call at Ostrava-Stodolní, next to the old town, which is convenient if your train stops there. For cross-border routes, look out for split-ticket deals and buy online in advance for the best price. Long-distance buses use Ostrava ÚAN and are served by operators including Student Agency, Leo Express and FlixBus; Leo Express runs a bus linking Ostrava-Svinov with the main train station in Katowice, Poland. From Leoš Janáček Airport Ostrava (OSR), hourly buses run to the city centre via the main bus station, taking about 40 minutes, with tickets bought from the driver; there is also a train from the airport to Ostrava main railway station. Many travellers instead fly to Katowice Pyrzowice Airport in Poland, roughly an hour away by the A1/D1 motorway, which FlixBus also serves.
Where to stay
Ostrava offers accommodation across a wide range of budgets and service levels, so you can choose a base that suits how you plan to spend your time. In the city centre, you'll find hotels with restaurants, relaxation centres and meeting facilities, making them convenient whether you're travelling for business or leisure. For a modern stay, look to a hotel that stands out as something of a flagship for its brand, with a standard and quality above that of the chain's older properties. If character matters more to you, a hotel set in a historic building with an impressive dining terrace is worth considering. On Stodolní, you can stay at a four-star hotel with a unique military-themed bar, putting you right on the street known for its nightlife.Food & drink
Ostrava's restaurant scene is enormous, spanning famous restaurants, cheaper trattorie and pizzerie, and kitchens turning out classical Czech food, regional specialities and international cuisine. For regional cooking, look to Moravská chalupa near Stodolní Street, which serves Czech specialities, or Harenda u Barborky at the Mining museum in Landek park, where the menu covers Czech and mining cuisine. Greek food is on offer at Taverna na Rynku, while Koras on Soukenická serves international culinary specialities. For something lighter, the Belgian café La Petite Conversation near the Stodolní tram stop does good sandwiches and coffee, and the French café Café au pere tranquille on Stodolní Street serves pancakes and French dishes.
No visit to the region is complete without a pint of the local beer, Ostravar, brewed in the city since 1897. Stodolní Street in the heart of the city is the main strip for wining, dining and having a great time, with over 60 bars and restaurants packed into a few blocks — the biggest strip of bars and pubs in the country. Drinks are generally cheaper than in Prague and the atmosphere is more local. At the western end of Stodolní, near the train station, you'll find the friendly pub E99. For a sweet treat, seek out the katowicke rurki: a sweet wafer rolled into a tube and filled with pařížská šlehačka, a chocolate-flavoured whipped-cream-like filling, made on a specially designed machine by specialist confectioners who have often run their businesses for decades — one of them is tucked away on Hornická street.
What to see and do
Ostrava's industrial past is the backbone of its sightseeing. At the Mining Museum in Landek Park, set inside the former Anselm Mine, you can see exhibitions on the evolution of coal mining in the Ostrava-Karviná region, mining technology and rescue services, and the site also holds sports and recreation facilities, an aquarium, bowling, cycling trails and a children's corner. The nearby Landek hill is a wooded national natural monument with a lookout tower where a castle once stood, and the Venus of Landek was found here. The Vítkovice Area traces the complete industrial flow of coal mining, coking and iron and steel production, and its giant gas container is being remade into a concert hall, gallery and café. At the Michal Mine you can walk the groundwork areas a miner passed through to reach his shift, including dressing rooms, washrooms, registry, dispatching and the machine room, left as if work had just ended. The Silesian Ostrava Castle, the city's most historic cultural monument, sank into the ground from coal-mining beneath it and now holds exhibitions on its own and the city's history, an exhibition of torture instruments, vaulted cellars and aquaria. Elsewhere, the Ostrava Museum occupies the Old Town Hall on Masaryk Square and holds an indoor astronomical clock, while the Viewing Tower of the New City Hall lets you see the whole city, the nearby Beskids and neighbouring Poland on a clear day. You can visit the Ostrava Zoo, go cross-country skiing inside it when there is enough snow, or climb Heap Ema, a forested artificial mound with fragments of coal that self-ignite inside it. The Poruba district is preserved in Socialist Realism style, with a monumental main boulevard and distinctive architecture. For sport, FC Baník Ostrava play soccer at the Městský Stadion, and the Golden Spike Ostrava athletics meeting is part of the IAAF World Challenge.When to go
< p>Ostrava has a temperate climate, with warm, humid summers and moderately cold winters. If you want the year's warmest and muggiest conditions, come in summer, when July is at its hottest and the city and its surroundings shift into peak season for outdoor activities. Expect warm, humid days and the liveliest atmosphere for exploring beyond the centre. < p>Winter brings moderately cold weather, with January the coldest month of the year. Days turn frosty and grey, with occasional snow. Pack for the chill and short daylight if you visit then, and plan around indoor sights and warm stops between walks.Three days in Ostrava
Day one: Start in the city centre, where Ostrava Info can help you get your bearings. Look at the mix of Moravian, Silesian and Polish influences that shape this part of the Czech Republic, and notice how the Oder, Opava, Ostravice and Lučina rivers meet the city. The City Hall is a useful landmark to orient yourself around, and Elektra is a name worth knowing as you move through the centre.
Day two: Travel out to Svinov, which is well connected if you arrived from Prague by Czech Railway, whether on an IC, EC or SC Pendolino service. Use the day to understand the wider Silesian Region, including Bohumín, Havířov, Karvin, Orlov, Petřvald and Rychvald. The Second World War left its mark here, and the shift towards the European Union has changed how the area sees itself.
Day three: Slow down and take in the everyday character of Ostrava rather than rushing between stops. Stodoln is one place to keep in mind as you plan your final day. Before you leave, return to the centre and let the layers of Czech Silesia settle: a city shaped by Moravia, Silesia and its neighbours, and by the rivers that run through it.