Huanggang

Introduction

Huanggang is a prefecture-level city in the easternmost part of Hubei Province, China. It lies north of the middle reaches of the Yangtze River, takes its name from Mount Huanggang, and is bounded to the north by the Dabie Mountains.

The city sits at a meeting point of several provinces: Henan borders it to the north, Anhui to the east, and Jiangxi to the south. That position makes Huanggang a place where the landscapes and cultures of neighbouring regions come together.

Before you go

Getting there

Getting around

Huangzhou, the urban district where most visitors base themselves, is compact enough to walk between nearby sights, hotels and restaurants, but spread out enough that you will want wheels for anything beyond the immediate centre. There is no metro or tram network, so public transport relies on buses, taxis, cycling and rail. Local buses are the workhorse of getting around, and the numbered routes radiating from the railway stations all funnel toward the city centre — bus No. 105 connects Huanggang East station to the centre and also serves Huanggang station alongside bus nos. 9 and 19, while Huangzhou station is linked by bus No. 101, and the routes outside Huanggang West all head downtown. Fares are cheap and paid on board. Two main bus stations serve the district for longer journeys within the prefecture: Huangzhou Bus Station on Baota Avenue, near the intersection with Xihu 2nd Road, and Donghua Bus Station on Mingzhu Avenue, both with local routes stopping nearby.

Taxis are metered and inexpensive by Chinese city standards: the starting fare covers the first couple of kilometres, then rises in tiers as distance increases, with a higher rate for the longest stretches and a surcharge on the starting fare late at night. Short hops around Huangzhou are very affordable, and even longer cross-town trips stay reasonable. Ride-hailing apps work here as elsewhere in China and are convenient if you don't speak Chinese. Shared bicycles are available around the city — you unlock one by scanning a QR code and are charged according to how far and how long you ride, a popular low-cost way to cover medium distances, though you will need a working mobile payment app. Decide which railway station you need before you book, since Huanggang has several and they are not interchangeable; if you arrive at Huangzhou Station, budget extra time, as it sits well outside the downtown area. Local buses from every main railway station run to the city centre, so you rarely need a taxi for the final leg.

Where to stay

Most of Huanggang's accommodation is concentrated in Huangzhou District, the seat of the municipal government and the city's political, economic and cultural centre. If you're arriving by train, the practical question is how far you're willing to be from Huanggang Station: the budget options sit closest, with Hanting Hotel near the junction of Mingzhu Avenue and Xingang 2nd Road and Juduo Hotel on Bayi Road, both a short drive from the station. Mid-range choices such as Yaduo Hotel by Yihai Lake Park and Vienna International Hotel at Ruitian Plaza on Pearl Avenue are a little further out but still within a comfortable ride.

At the top end, Huanggang Peninsula International Hotel on Xingang 2nd Road and Huanggang New Kembin Walden Hotel on Huangzhou Avenue offer the most polished stays, though the latter is the furthest from the station of the places listed here. Staying in Huangzhou puts you in the city's main urban centre; if your plans lean toward the counties and county-level cities — Hong'an's mountain and lake scenery, or Macheng to the north — you'll be basing yourself some distance from them.

Food & drink

For a sit-down meal, head to Green Pavilion Western Restaurant on the second floor of the Wushang Store on Dongmen Road in Huangzhou District. It is a chain restaurant with a menu that changes quickly, generous portions, and drinks and desserts that hold their own alongside the food. Another option is Authentic Victory Hanging Pot Bridgehead Shop, which has appeared on CCTV7; the hanging pot is the thing to order, and the prices stay affordable.

• Green Pavilion Western Restaurant — chain Western food, large portions, good drinks and desserts
• Authentic Victory Hanging Pot Bridgehead Shop — hanging pot dishes, affordable

When you want something to drink, two chains are worth knowing. BaWangChaJi serves tea with a rich tea-and-milk flavour and is especially popular with younger crowds. Grandpa Doesn't Make Tea is a local shop with a strong following and plenty of good reviews, and it is worth a try while you are in the city.

What to see and do

Huangzhou District holds most of the sights you'll want to start with. The Huanggang Museum on Mingzhu Avenue is free and closed on Mondays, and buses 9, 18, 25, 102 and 108 stop nearby at Dongfang Square. Su Dongpo's Red Cliffs on Gongyuan Road is the city's most storied spot: Su Dongpo's 11th-century poem "Former Ode on the Red Cliffs" names it as the site of the Battle of Red Cliffs, though that claim is disputed, and halls and pavilions have been built here over the centuries to commemorate both the battle and his poetry. Take bus no. 8 to Chibi Park and walk from there. Yiai Lake Park, the largest park in the urban area, is open all day and free; its Sun Dongpo Memorial Museum, devoted to the Song Dynasty writer and artist, closes on Mondays. Reach the main entrance on the park's northern side via buses 6, 9, 16, 81 or 102.

Further out, the countryside rewards a longer trip. Huangzhou Ancient City on Gucheng Road is a well-preserved Song Dynasty site with Ming and Qing walls, streets and buildings, where you can wander traditional neighbourhoods and join folk activities; it is closed on Mondays, and buses 1 and 3 stop at Gucheng Station, about five minutes' walk away. In the counties, Triangle Mountain in Xishui County is a scenic area with a continental monsoon climate, while Taohuachong Scenic Area in the northeast corner of Yingshan County takes in Datongjian, the second peak of the Dabie Mountains. Tiantangzhai Scenic Area in Luotian County sits on the Dabie Mountains watershed, so from the summit you can look north over the Central Plains and south over Jingchu, and near the top is a pond known as "Yaochi" whose water never overflows or dries up. Guifeng Mountain Scenic Area in Macheng City is known for its turtle-like shape and suits a trip with friends or family.

Three days in Huanggang

Day one: Arrive in Huanggang, in Hubei Province, China. It sits on the Yangtze River, and the Dabie Mountains rise to the north. Fly into Wuhan Tianhe International Airport, then continue to Huanggang; direct services also reach Wuhan. Buses from Fujiapo Bus Station in Wuchang District serve the city, and trains arrive at Huanggang Railway Station on Lukou Avenue, Huanggang East Railway Station on Xinhua Road, Huanggang West Railway Station on Provincial Highway, and Huangzhou Railway Station on Jinggang Road. Local buses leave from Huangzhou Bus Station. Settle into Huangzhou District, the city's central district, and walk its streets to get your bearings.

• Huangzhou District
• Huanggang Railway Station
• Huanggang East Railway Station
• Huanggang West Railway Station
• Huangzhou Railway Station
• Huangzhou Bus Station

Day two: Head north into the Dabie Mountains and Mount Huanggang. The range also reaches into Henan, Anhui and Jiangxi, so the landscapes around you shift as you travel. Spend the day among the mountains and the countryside, then return to Huangzhou District for the evening.

• Mount Huanggang
• Dabie Mountains

Day three: Use the day to see the wider prefecture-level city. Luotian County, Macheng City, Qichuan County and Yingshan County all lie within Huanggang, and Hong is another county. Before you leave, return to Huangzhou District and the Yangtze River, then depart by bus or train from the stations you arrived at.

• Luotian County
• Macheng City
• Qichuan County
• Yingshan County
• Hong
• Yangtze River