Geneva

Introduction

Geneva sits in the southwest of Switzerland, where the Rhône flows out of Lake Geneva. It is the capital of the Republic and Canton of Geneva and the most populous city in French-speaking Romandy. A global city and international financial centre, it is also a worldwide centre for diplomacy — a role that has earned it the name "Peace Capital".

Before you go

Geneva is officially French-speaking, and the vast majority of residents speak French; all advertisements, information and signs are in French. English and Portuguese are the next most common languages, with Spanish, Italian and German also widely spoken, and you may occasionally hear Serbian/Croatian, Albanian, Turkish and Arabic. Speaking some French will help you find more life beneath the city's reserved surface.

The city is by and large very safe, and violent crime was almost unheard of, though you should keep an eye on your belongings in public as petty theft is fairly common. Report any such activity to the police, who tend to be more interested and helpful than in many other Western cities, especially if you speak a little French. Since 2013 an increase in violent crime has been reported, especially at night and near party areas, where alcohol and aggressive behaviour have led to fights; burglary is also increasing due to organised crime groups, so keep your hotel or apartment doors well locked and close windows when you leave. Vandalism is widespread, with bicycles stripped of seats and wheels on many streets. A rigged street game, "hiding the ball", used to be commonplace near the bridges south of the railway station, though police have reportedly rounded up the con-men behind it.

Getting there

Geneva is the transport hub for French-speaking Switzerland and the western gateway to the Swiss Alps. Geneva Airport (GVA), also called Geneva Cointrin, is served by major European carriers with good connections from North African and Middle Eastern airports, and a few daily direct flights from New York, Washington D.C. and Montreal. It is a hub for the low-cost carrier easyJet, which flies to a wide range of European cities including Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Edinburgh, London, Madrid, Manchester and Paris. In the arrivals area you'll find a UBS bank with ATMs and exchange machines, and there are cafés and duty-free shopping. To reach the city, taxis are available, but the fastest option is the train: all trains leaving the airport station stop at the main train and bus station in about seven minutes, and you can take any departing train since the same fare applies to all of them. The number 10 bus runs every 15 minutes and stops at the 22-Cantons stop for the train station, while bus 5 also serves the central railway station via a different route past the UN building and rue de Lausanne; both continue to the southern side of the city. Train and bus tickets are valid for one hour and cover trains, buses and the yellow boats anywhere in Geneva and its suburbs, as far as CERN, Anières or Veyrier. If you have booked accommodation in the city, check your email for a free transport ticket you can use for your trip into town.

By train, the Swiss Federal Railway (CFF in French) serves Geneva's main station, Genève or Cornavin, with direct trains to and from Neuchâtel, Biel/Bienne, Luzern, Winterthur and St. Gallen hourly, and Bern and Zürich every half-hour. Regional trains to Nyon, Morges and villages along the northern shore of Lake Geneva, plus inter-regional trains to Lausanne, leave every 15 minutes, continuing to Vevey, Montreux, Martigny, Sion and on to Visp and Brig in the Valais at least every half-hour. International services include the TGV-Lyria to Paris, Lyon, Avignon, Marseille and Nice, a direct connection to Milan through the Simplon massif, and a daily EuroCity service to Venice via Milan. The Gare des Eaux-Vives, on the south-eastern side of the lake across the Rhône, has French SNCF bus services to and from Evian, Chamonix and Annecy. Cornavin is well integrated into the city network: tram and bus routes converge at the Gare Cornavin stop right outside the doors, and a basement shopping concourse and underground passage connect to the south side of the main street and to a pedestrianized shopping street leading down to the lake. If you're staying in a hotel, hostel or campground, don't buy more than a single ticket, as Geneva provides free transit passes to tourists in these types of accommodation; ask at reception if you didn't receive one at check-in.

By car, the motorway network brings you right into Geneva, only 40 km from Annecy and 80 km from Chamonix via the Bardonnex–Saint-Julien customs. Driving on Swiss motorways requires the compulsory motorway sticker (Vignette), which you can buy at petrol stations, post offices or tourist offices. To avoid buying one, you can enter through other crossing points such as Thônex-Vallard or Moillesulaz. International bus routes also serve Geneva, and the TPG runs regular services from the neighbouring French towns of Saint-Julien, Archamps, Thoiry, Ferney-Voltaire and Moillesulaz. On the water, regular boat services around Lake Geneva, mainly in paddle steamers built between 1904 and 1927, are provided by Compagnie Générale de Navigation; all boats arrive at the Paquis port after brief stops at Parc des Eaux Vives and the Jardin Anglais.

Getting around

Geneva is compact and integrated, and trams, buses, suburban trains and the yellow lake boats all share the same ticketing system, so moving between modes is simple once you understand the basics. The network is run by Transports Publics Genevois (TPG), and a single ticket is valid across trains, buses and boats, covering the city and its suburbs as far as CERN, Anières or Veyrier. Buy tickets from the machines at every stop before boarding; some bus stops lack a machine, in which case tell the driver you need to buy one at the next stop. If you are staying in a hotel, hostel or campsite you are often entitled to a free transit pass for the length of your stay — ask at reception if you were not given one at check-in, and check your email before you travel, since some places send a free transport ticket in advance that can be used for your trip in from the airport. Carry your passport or identity card alongside it to keep it valid.

Walking is the best way to see the old town. A classic route starts around the tour boat dock on Lake Geneva, or from Cornavin station: walk down to Bel-Air island and continue straight uphill to the old town. Crossing the Pont du Mont Blanc brings you to the English Garden with its flower clock and sculpted bronze water fountain; from there cross the Quai du Général-Guisan and climb via Place du Port and Rue de la Fontaine, up the long stair passage, to arrive behind Saint Peter's Cathedral. Exit the courtyard to find yourself in front of the City Hall, then walk down to Bastions Park, home of the Reformation Wall memorial — quiet and romantic, especially in early autumn when the leaves begin to fall. Be warned that street names change frequently along a single route, which can make navigation confusing; the street from Bel-Air square to the Rive roundabout carries several different names over a short stretch. Cycling also works well: apart from the old town the city is fairly flat, and although some streets are dangerous to ride there is almost always a safe, fast alternative. Pick up the Velo-Love plan de ville at bike shops for the best routes, or rent an ebike; a social organisation called Genèveroule lends bicycles free of charge for four hours, with a small fee per extra hour, between the end of April and the end of October, with stations along the lake, behind the railway station, in Eaux-Vives (Terrassière), on the Plaine de Plainpalais and at Carouge. You will need to show a passport or identity card and leave a refundable deposit. The "mouette" boats are a pleasant way across the lake, running from the Pâquis station near the Quai du Mont-Blanc to the Eaux-Vives stop near the Jardin Anglais. Driving into the famously congested city centre is not a good idea; a car is better saved for the mountains and ski resorts, with rental providers operating from the airport.

Where to stay

Geneva has plenty of hotels, but very few in the budget range. Many cluster around the central Cornavin train station, and if you arrive late it's worth checking the automated hotel board in the station to find the nearest vacancy. Lodging is hardest to find during large international conferences and trade shows, the prime example being the Salon d'Auto held at Palexpo, so research whether your arrival coincides with one of these events. For lower hotel prices, consider the outlying French towns of Annemasse or Gaillard, both conveniently accessible by public transit from Gare Cornavin.

Among budget options, the youth hostel on Rue Rothschild is clean and well maintained, well placed for the bars and restaurants of the Paquis and a short walk from the central station, though floors, lockers and doors are loud, so bring ear plugs if you're in a shared room. City Hostel Geneva on Rue Ferrier is clean and hassle-free, if somewhat soul-less, near the budget food haven of Paquis and the train station, with laundry, internet, lockers and communal kitchens. The Cité Universitaire on Avenue de Miremont is a huge dorm space that's cheap but a bit far out of the old town, on the bluff of Champel overlooking the Arve across from Carouge; since it isn't a hotel, call first to confirm availability. Hotel Formule 1 sits behind the airport on the French side, inexpensive with a good standard, though walls are thin and it's awkward by public transit. Mid-range hotels number in the hundreds, including places near the station and in the elegant streets parallel to the Rhone, and several grand old-world luxury hotels line the lake shore, among them Les Armures in the old town and the Beau Rivage, Four Seasons Hotel Des Bergues, Grand Hotel Kempinski and Hotel President Wilson along Quai du Mont-Blanc and Quai Wilson.

Food & drink

Geneva has a huge number of restaurants for a city its size, and its international community means you'll find more variety here than in most Swiss cities. The catch is the cost: this is possibly the most expensive city in an expensive country, so self-catering is a sensible way to save money if you have the option. If you're staying a while, consider shopping trips to supermarkets in France, where many foods cost less than half what they do in Geneva. It can also be quite difficult to find food on Sunday night, so plan ahead or head for the more touristy area near the train station.

For budget eating, look around the train station and the nearby Paquis district, or near rue de l'Ecole de Médecine off Plaine de Plainpalais. Buvette des Bains sits in the middle of the lake, a beach in summer and a fondue restaurant in winter, with a good plat du jour served all day. Espresso Club is a tiny bar with three tables, usually packed with an international crowd who come for pizza, salads and pasta, with plenty of vegetarian choices. Café Art's keeps a limited menu of salads and pasta going all day, while Sing Fa la maison du Ravioli serves fairly authentic Chinese dumplings and noodles. For Chinese and Japanese dishes, try Asia Garden, and for Indian and Sri Lankan fast food, Piment Vert near the Manor department store. Chez Ma Cousine builds its simple menu around roast chicken, and Ali Haydar and Cafe Istanbul cover kebabs and Turkish food. Manora, on the top floor of the Manor store, is a cafeteria-style spot with a view of the skyline from its balcony, and Boulangerie Tea-Room Deux-Ponts turns out Portuguese sandwiches, bifanas and pastries. La feuille de banane in Plainpalais offers Asiatic food at one of the best quality-to-price ratios in town.

What to see and do

When to go

Geneva has a temperate oceanic climate, with cool winters, relatively warm summers, and rain spread fairly evenly through the year. Autumn tends to be a little wetter than the other seasons, so pack for damp days if you visit then.

Winters are cool rather than severe, with light frosts at night that usually thaw during the day. The Bise, a north-easterly wind, can bring severe icing, and ice storms near Lac Léman are normal; snow falls in some years, while the nearby mountains receive substantial snowfall for skiing. Summers are relatively warm, and many people swim in the lake and use public beaches such as Genève Plage and the Bains des Pâquis.

Festivals & events

Geneva's event calendar includes Caves Ouvertes, held in May, when the city's wine cellars open their doors to visitors.

Three days in Geneva

Day one: Start with the old town, where the Republic's history sits alongside the Canton's institutions, and walk the lakeside to take in Lake Geneva and the Rhône as it leaves the city. Geneva's character shifts block by block, from the international quarter around the Peace Capital to streets where French, English, Portuguese, Spanish, Italian, German, Serbian, Croatian, Albanian, Turkish and Arabic are all spoken.

• Old town and lakeside
• International quarter
• Rhône waterfront

Day two: Use the city as a base for the mountains. The Swiss Alps are within reach, and Geneva Airport (GVA, also called Geneva Cointrin) connects the city to European, North African and Middle Eastern routes as well as to New York, Washington, Montreal, Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin and Edinburgh. Back in town, the mix of Romandy and Swiss life is easiest to read on foot.

• Swiss Alps day trip
• Geneva Airport (GVA / Geneva Cointrin)

Day three: Slow down and let the city's layers settle. Western Geneva and the older quarters reward a second look, and the Report of the city's international role is visible in its institutions and its languages. Since so much of Geneva is walked rather than driven, keep the last day loose and follow the lake.

• Western Geneva
• Lakeside walk