Stepping Into Old Delhi on the Eve of Lakshmi Puja
It is the evening of November 8, 2026, the new-moon night of Kartik, and the lanes of Old Delhi are packed shoulder to shoulder. Marigold garlands hang in ropes above shopfronts, diyas flicker on window ledges and stairwells, and the air carries the smoke of oil lamps mixed with the sugar-and-ghee smell of jalebi frying somewhere ahead of you. Somewhere above the crowd, a string of electric lights snaps on, then another, until the whole street is lit from both ends. This is Diwali in Delhi, and you are in the middle of it.
The five-day festival runs November 6–11, 2026, with the main night — Lakshmi Puja — falling on Sunday, November 8. Dhanteras opens the period on November 6, Chhoti Diwali follows on November 7, Govardhan Puja lands on November 10, and Bhai Dooj closes it on November 11. Delhi, more than almost any other Indian city, gives you the full range: Old Delhi's bazaars, Connaught Place, temples, markets, and neighbourhood celebrations all at once.
Walk the Markets and Light Your Own Diya
Dhanteras, on November 6, is the day Delhi shops. Gold, jewellery, and kitchenware are the traditional purchases, and the markets run late. Even if you are not buying, go for the spectacle — the crowds, the marigold stalls, the rows of diyas and rangoli powders laid out for sale.
- Old Delhi bazaars: the densest concentration of festival shopping and street life in the city. Come after dark, when the lighting is at its peak.
- Connaught Place: the colonial-era commercial heart, lit for the festival and easier to navigate than the old city lanes.
- Buy your own diyas and rangoli materials — coloured powders or flowers — and set them up wherever you are staying. Lighting lamps is the core act of the festival, not a spectator sport.
On Chhoti Diwali, November 7, the city shifts to smaller-scale celebration: lamps, rangoli, and modest fireworks in the streets and courtyards around you. Join in rather than watch from a distance.
Fireworks, Temples, and the Main Night
Lakshmi Puja on November 8 is when the city empties its streets into homes and courtyards for prayers to Lakshmi and Ganesha — and then, after sunset, fills the sky. The fireworks are city-wide and grand, running from before sunset into the late night. India Gate is one of the landmarks where displays are visible, and temples across the city open their doors to visitors for the evening.
- Plan around the smoke. Fireworks smoke is intense on the main night, and Delhi's air quality deteriorates further. If you have asthma, carry your medication and consider a hotel with filtered air.
- Dress for it. Bright traditional attire — saris, kurtas — is the norm. For temple visits, dress modestly and remove your shoes before entering.
- Do not schedule long-distance travel on November 8. Stay put, stay local, and let the evening unfold around you.
On November 10, Govardhan Puja and Annakut bring community meals and temple ceremonies — a quieter, food-centred day after the pyrotechnics. Bhai Dooj on November 11 is a family day honouring brothers and sisters; if you are travelling with siblings, it is yours to observe.
What to Eat, and Where the City Eats It
Diwali food in Delhi is sweets first and fried things a close second. Laddus, jalebi, and kaju katli are exchanged as gifts between households; samosas and kachori are the savoury counterweight sold from street stalls through the festival period.
- Street food: roughly ₹100–400 per serving — jalebi, samosas, kachori.
- Casual meals: ₹300–800.
- Comfortable restaurants: ₹800–2,000.
If you are visiting a home, bring sweets or fruit as a host gift. Expect to remove your shoes, and expect to be fed.
Getting Your Timing and Logistics Right
Banks, government offices, markets, and some attractions close or reduce hours across the festival period. Complete any errands before November 8. Indian Railways tickets typically open around 60 days before travel, so book early if you plan to move between cities. Accommodation during the festival runs from roughly ₹1,500–4,000 for a basic private room, ₹5,000–12,000 mid-range, and ₹15,000 and up for heritage or luxury properties. A daily budget of ₹2,500–5,000 covers a budget traveller; ₹7,000–15,000 covers mid-range comfort, excluding intercity transport.
On weather: agencies expect October 2026 to run hotter than average with below-normal national rainfall, though the southern peninsula should see normal to above-normal rain. Delhi in early November is typically cooler than October, but check forecasts before you pack.
Beyond Delhi, If You Have the Days
The five-day window makes a short extension possible. Jaipur lights its markets and the City Palace, with Johari Bazaar and Tripolia Bazaar selling festival goods. Varanasi marks the occasion with oil lamps on the Ganges ghats — and Dev Deepawali follows about fifteen days later on Kartik Purnima, if you can stretch your trip. Amritsar's Golden Temple celebrates Diwali alongside Bandi Chhor Divas, the Sikh observance of Guru Hargobind's release. Book Varanasi boat rides and airport transfers well ahead.
Delhi during Diwali is not a single event you attend — it is a city you move through while it celebrates around you. Book your accommodation and any rail tickets early, keep November 8 free and local, and let the rest of the five days carry you from market to courtyard to rooftop. The lamps are already being hung.