Getting Around Tunis
Tunis is the capital and largest city of Tunisia, and as the country's political, commercial and cultural centre it has a transport network that reflects its role as a national hub. For a visitor, the good news is that the main sights are clustered fairly close together, and the city's public transport is cheap and reasonably easy to use once you understand how the pieces fit together.
The Light Metro and TGM Suburban Train
The backbone of public transport in Tunis is the light metro system, run by Transtu. It is described as a convenient five-line network, and the key thing for a visitor is that the interchange hubs for all lines sit in the centre of town, at Place de la République and Place de Barcelone. That makes it straightforward to move between lines if you plan your route around those two squares.
Tickets are priced according to how many sections, or zones, of the network you travel through. Single one-section tickets are very cheap, and most tourist attractions fall within two sections of the city centre, so a two-section single ticket is what you'll usually want. Buy your ticket before boarding.
The TGM suburban train line is the one you'll likely use most as a sightseer. It starts at Tunis Marine station, which is on the metro lines serving the centre, and runs out to La Goulette (where the ferries dock), Carthage, Sidi Bou Saïd and the beaches of La Marsa. Tickets are inexpensive and sold per journey.
A few practical warnings about the TGM: signage at Tunis Marine is extremely poor, with nothing obvious even saying "TGM", and on the train maps the station is marked as Tunis Nord. If you arrive on the metro, the TGM platform sits perpendicular to the metro cars and is easily reached across the tracks; tickets are sold at the end farthest from the metro stop. Station names on the signs along the line differ slightly from those on the onboard map, and graffiti can make signs hard to read. Trains sometimes stop and wait on the tracks after leaving Tunis Nord or on the return, which is normal and usually not very long. Many stations along the TGM don't have full-time ticket vendors, so if you plan several trips along the line you may find yourself unable to buy a ticket at the station.
Buses
Tunisia has an extensive bus network with Tunis at its hub. Within the city, buses are a cheap way to get around, and they also serve the airport (see below). For longer journeys, there are two main bus stations in town: Gare Routière Tunis Sud, south of Place Barcelone, serves cities and towns to the south, while Gare Routière Tunis Nord, by Bab Saadoun, serves destinations to the north and west. Both are run by SNTRI, whose website lists schedules and fares.
Louages (Shared Taxis)
For travel between cities, Tunisia's louage network — shared taxis that depart when full — is a major part of how people get around, and Tunis is its principal hub. There are three main louage stations in the city:
- Bab Saadoun Station — next to the northern bus station, northwest of the centre by Bab Saadoun. Louages here connect to cities north and west of Tunis, including Bizerte, El Kef and Beja.
- Bab Alioua Station — next to the southern bus station, south of the medina by Bab Alioua metro station. Louages here serve the Cape Bon area and nearby towns to the south such as Hammamet.
- Moncef Bey Station — southeast of the medina. Louages from here connect Tunis with central and southern cities including Sousse, Sfax and Gabes.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis are plentiful and, if the meter is used honestly, inexpensive. The recurring caution from travellers is that you should insist on the meter. Some meters may have been tampered with, and if you don't trust the meter, negotiate a price before you set off. It's a good idea to ask your hotel front desk what an average fare to your destination should be before you leave.
At busy pickup points, especially the airport, drivers can be aggressive in competing for your business — an unspoken rule is that the first driver to grab your luggage and put it in the trunk has effectively made the contract. They may reach for your bag, not to steal it but to win your fare. Knowing the rough going rate in advance is your best protection.
Walkability
Central Tunis rewards walking. The historic core is the Medina, a World Heritage Site, and east of it, through the Sea Gate (also called Bab el Bhar or the Porte de France), begins the modern city, the Ville Nouvelle. The grand Avenue Habib Bourguiba runs through this newer quarter — often described as the Tunisian Champs-Élysées — where colonial-era buildings contrast with smaller, older structures. The Medina, the Ville Nouvelle and the area around Place de Barcelone and Place de la République are all close enough to explore on foot, which also makes it easy to reach the metro interchanges.
Free maps of Tunis and Tunisia are available at the National Tourism Office, just north-east of the clock tower and directly east of the main Medina gate. The office offers assistance in many languages, so it's a useful first stop for orienting yourself.
Getting from the Airport into the City
Tunis-Carthage Airport (TUN) sits close to the city and well within urban Tunis. The airport is small but in reasonable shape, with standard facilities, free Wi-Fi (which, however, doesn't work reliably), ATMs and cafes on the ground floor where international flights arrive. There are no luggage storage facilities at the airport.
You have two main options for reaching the centre:
- Taxi. A metered taxi into the city centre should cost around 5–7 DT during the day and around 10 DT at night — but insist on the meter. At night some drivers will ask for far more, so agree a price before leaving the terminal if you're unsure about the meter. One trick some travellers use is to take the escalator up a floor and hail a taxi that has just dropped off a departing passenger; this is easier in the afternoon and at night is harder, but it can connect you with a more professional driver.
- Bus. A public bus service, bus no. 104 Airport, stops outside the Arrivals Hall right in front of the taxi stand and runs to Tunis Marine. Tickets cost 1 DT and are bought from the conductor. Buses run fairly regularly during the day but not at night. Be careful not to confuse it with the ordinary city bus no. 104, which costs less and whose tickets are bought from the ticket office — an easy mistake to make.
If you're arriving by ferry instead, note that most ferries dock at La Goulette, about 15 minutes from the centre, where taxis are plentiful and suburban trains depart frequently.
Practical Notes on Money
Tunisian law requires all currency to be exchanged inside the country, and it is illegal to take Tunisian dinars out of the country. You can exchange money at the airport or at your hotel, and there are many currency exchange booths with reasonable rates. Keep the receipt for every transaction — without it, a bank may give you difficulty converting unspent dinars back into your own currency. If you are departing on a connecting flight, be aware that duty-free alcohol not in a sealed bag may be refused at the intermediate airport, so keep receipts and sealed packaging.