Getting Around Kamakura
Kamakura is a compact historic city that is just a little too big to cover entirely on foot, but it is well served by a mix of trains, a charming local tram line, buses, bicycles, and taxis. Most visitors arrive by rail and then fan out from Kamakura Station, which acts as the main gateway to the city's temples, shrines, and the coast.
Arriving by Train
The fastest way into Kamakura Station is the JR Yokosuka Line, which runs from Tokyo Station and also from Yokohama. If you are coming from Shinjuku, an alternative is the private Odakyu line to Fujisawa, where you change onto the Enoden line that terminates in Kamakura. This route takes longer but rewards you with views of Enoshima island and the Shonan coast.
For day-trippers, the Enoshima-Kamakura Free Pass bundles a round trip from Shinjuku (or other Odakyu, Seibu, and Sotetsu stations) with unlimited use of the Enoden line for one day. Note that it does not cover local bus fares, and the source material advises that the savings are meager for most travelers and that the pass adds hassle by restricting your itinerary to its specific routes.
Getting Around by Rail and Tram
Kamakura Station is the hub of the local network. From there, the JR Line connects to Kitakamakura Station, useful for reaching Jōchiiji temple and the start of a popular hiking trail. The Enoden (江ノ電) line, a half-train/half-streetcar that rattles along the coast, is the handiest way to reach the Great Buddha at Kōtokuin and Hasedera: both are a short ride from Kamakura Station to Hase station, three stops away.
Buses
A network of buses radiates out from the train station, filling the gaps that the rails do not cover and helping you reach sights that are a bit too far to walk to comfortably. Buses are the main public transport option for the less reachable temples.
Bicycles
Renting a bicycle is another option for touring the city. Bicycles can be rented from several locations, though rates are on the expensive side. One established shop, Kamakura Rental Cycles, sits a short walk south of the east exit of JR Kamakura Station and rents standard Japanese bicycles, including battery-assisted models. It is open daily except over the New Year holidays, and pricing is by the hour with a higher rate for the first hour and a lower rate for each additional hour; battery-assisted bikes cost extra.
Walking and Hiking
Walking is a pleasure in Kamakura, and for the energetic there is a rewarding hike starting from Jōchiiji temple and ending near Kōtokuin. The route involves some climbing through forest, passes through Zeniarai Benten Shrine (where you can try the money-washing ceremony), and takes roughly a few hours if you stop to visit the temples along the way. Even in summer, the shade on the path keeps the temperature bearable. Be aware that if you are on a day trip, doing the hike limits your chances of visiting some of the less reachable temples. To reach the trailhead, take the JR Line from Kamakura Station to Kitakamakura Station, exit, turn left, and walk up the road; the walk begins to the left of the temple, and you do not need to pay the temple entrance fee to start the hike.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
The source material does not describe taxi or ride-hailing services in Kamakura, so visitors should plan around the rail, tram, bus, bicycle, and walking options covered above.
Getting There from the Airport
From Narita Airport, the fastest and most expensive option is the Narita Express toward Yokohama or Ofuna, changing to the JR Yokosuka Line for the run to Kamakura. Foreign visitors can buy a N'EX Tokyo Direct Ticket, sold only as a round-trip version. It may be more convenient to change to the Yokosuka Line at intermediate stations, where the transfer is a simple same-platform or cross-platform change: if the Narita Express terminates at Yokohama, change at Musashi-Kosugi; if it terminates at Ofuna, change at Totsuka.
Regular JR commuter trains also depart Narita Airport, roughly once per hour. Some offer one-seat rides to Kamakura Station; otherwise you change at wherever the train terminates to the next train bound for Zushi, Yokosuka, or Kurihama. These trains offer a Green Car seating upgrade with more comfortable seats and a drink and snack service.
From Haneda Airport, take any Keikyu Line Express (急行) train bound for Zushi-Hayama or Kanazawa-Bunko, and change at Yokohama Station for the JR Yokosuka Line. Alternatively, change at Kanazawa-Hakkei or Zushi-Hayama for a Keikyu bus into Kamakura. The Miura Peninsula 1-Day/2-Day ticket can be useful for this journey.
One practical tip if you are staying at a ryokan: unless your plane lands in the morning, consider spending your first evening in Tokyo or Yokohama. Otherwise you risk missing (and being charged for) dinner at the ryokan, or being locked out of (and charged for) your room if the ryokan has a curfew. If you are staying in budget accommodation, check whether it has a curfew time.