Getting around Hatsukaichi
Hatsukaichi sits on the coast of Hiroshima Bay in southwestern Hiroshima Prefecture, and its shape as a destination is defined by two things: the mainland urban strip along the bay, and Itsukushima (Miyajima) Island offshore, home to the UNESCO-listed Itsukushima Shrine. For a visitor, that means most journeys fall into one of two categories — moving along the mainland between Hatsukaichi, Miyajimaguchi and neighbouring Hiroshima, and crossing the water to the island. The mainland is well served by rail, tram and bus; the island is reached by ferry and then explored on foot.
Rail: the San'yō Main Line
The backbone of travel through Hatsukaichi is JR West's San'yō Main Line, which runs along the coast and links the city's stations with Hiroshima to the east. Stations in Hatsukaichi include Hatsukaichi, Miyauchikushido, Ajina, Miyajimaguchi, Maezora and Ōnoura.
For most visitors, Miyajimaguchi is the station that matters: it is the mainland gateway to the Miyajima ferries. From Hiroshima Station, the JR run to Miyajimaguchi takes roughly 25 minutes and costs around ¥420. Because this is a Japan Railways line, a Japan Rail Pass covers the journey, and it also covers the JR West Miyajima Ferry crossing described below.
Tram: the Hiroden Miyajima Line
Hiroshima Electric Railway (Hiroden) operates the Miyajima Line, a tram route that parallels the rail line and gives you a slower, cheaper alternative for the same corridor. Stops include Sanyo-jogakuen-mae, Hiroden-hatsukaichi, Hatsukaichi-shiyakusho-mae, Miyauchi, JA Hiroshimabyoin-mae, Jigozen, Ajina-higashi, Hiroden-ajina, Miyajima Boat Race Jō and Hiroden-miyajima-guchi.
From Hiroshima Station, Hiroden Line 2 reaches Miyajimaguchi in about 50 minutes for roughly ¥270 — noticeably slower than the train but cheaper. The tram is a good option if you are already in central Hiroshima and want a single seat to the ferry pier without changing trains.
Ferries to Miyajima
Two operators connect Miyajimaguchi on the mainland with Miyajima: JR Miyajima Ferry and Miyajima Matsudai Kisen. The crossing takes about 10 minutes and costs around ¥180; it is free with a Japan Rail Pass. Note that an island entry fee is payable separately from the ferry fare.
From Miyajimaguchi Station it is only a six- or seven-minute walk to the JR West Miyajima Ferry Terminal, so the rail-to-ferry connection is straightforward. End to end, Hiroshima Station to Miyajima takes roughly 40 minutes by JR plus ferry, or about 70 minutes if you take the tram instead.
If you want to walk out to the famous sea-standing torii before high tide, aim to reach JR Miyajimaguchi before 7 am. The tide begins rising from around 8 am, and the base of the torii floods within about 20 minutes. A return ferry around 4 pm positions you for possible sunset views.
Buses and other public transport
Local bus coverage in Hatsukaichi includes the Sakura Bus on the Hara Line. Buses are also useful for reaching sights away from the rail corridor — for example, a free shuttle bus runs from Otake Station to the Shimose Art Museum, but only on weekends and holidays; on weekdays you need to use a local bus instead. JR also links Miyajimaguchi to Otake Station in about 15 minutes.
On Miyajima itself, the practical way to get around is on foot. The island's sights — Itsukushima Shrine, the Five-Storied Pagoda, Senjokaku and the Miyajima Natural Botanical Garden — are clustered in the walkable shrine area, with Mount Misen rising behind. Human-powered wooden boats also operate near the torii, offering a roughly 20-minute ride that passes through the gate twice for about ¥1,500; last boarding time varies by day.
Taxis and ride-hailing
Taxis are available and are the fastest mainland option when you want to go door to door. As a benchmark, a taxi from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi takes about 20 minutes and costs roughly ¥4,500 — considerably more than the train or tram, but useful with luggage or in a group.
Tickets and passes
Fares on the JR line, the Hiroden tram and the ferries are paid individually, but a few passes simplify things. The Japan Rail Pass covers the JR San'yō Main Line and the JR West Miyajima Ferry (the island entry fee is still separate). A "Miyajima Free Pass," priced at around ¥2,000, is reported to cover the tram, the ferry and shrine admission — worth considering if you plan to travel the Hiroden line and visit the shrine in one trip.
On the island, a stamp-collecting book costs about ¥1,000 and can be stamped at the shrine, Daisho-in and the five-story pagoda.
Walkability
Walking is the primary way to experience Miyajima, and the ferry pier, shrine and main sights are all within easy reach of each other on foot. On the mainland, the area around Miyajimaguchi Station and the ferry terminal is compact and walkable, which is what makes the rail-and-ferry connection so convenient. Beyond those hubs, the city stretches along the coast and up into rural hinterland, so a car, bus or train is needed for anything farther out.
Getting there from the airport
The reference material does not describe airport transfers to Hatsukaichi, so the practical route is via Hiroshima: arrive at the airport, continue into Hiroshima city, and from there take the JR San'yō Main Line or the Hiroden tram to Miyajimaguchi or Hatsukaichi. Hiroshima Station is the natural interchange, with the JR train reaching Miyajimaguchi in about 25 minutes and the tram in about 50 minutes.
Practical tips
- Choose JR for speed to Miyajimaguchi; choose the Hiroden tram for a cheaper, slower ride.
- Allow roughly 40 minutes from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima by JR plus ferry, or about 70 minutes by tram plus ferry.
- If you hold a Japan Rail Pass, the JR ferry crossing is free — but budget separately for the island entry fee.
- Arrive at JR Miyajimaguchi before 7 am if you want to walk to the torii before the tide comes in.
- Time your return ferry for around 4 pm if you are hoping for sunset views.
- On Miyajima, expect to walk; the shrine, pagoda and Senjokaku are all in the same compact area.