Getting Around Srinagar
Srinagar is a city of waterways, gardens and waterfronts, and most visitors spend their time moving between the Dal Lake area, the old city along the Jhelum, and the surrounding sights. The good news is that several transport options exist and they are easy to use once you know what to expect. The main caution is that fares are often negotiated rather than metered, so agree on a price before you set off.
How Tourists Move Around the City
Auto-rickshaws are the most visible way of getting around and can be found everywhere. Taxis and buses are also available, and private service buses run throughout the city, well networked with the major tourist spots. For enthusiasts, motorcycles can be rented.
If you take an auto-rickshaw, negotiate the price with the driver before getting in. Drivers are notorious for overcharging and for generally being dishonest, and their usual ploy is to say "no problem" or "up to you" and then demand far more once you arrive. Drivers usually do not speak English, but there is generally a passer-by willing to help translate. As a rough benchmark, a rickshaw from Nigeen Lake to Boulevard was around ₹70 depending on negotiation skills.
Rail, Metro and Tram
Srinagar has no metro or tram network. Rail service is provided by a station on the Kashmir Railway (Jammu–Baramulla line). It is served by regular passenger trains from Banihal, as well as express trains from Katra, including a Vande Bharat Express. Note that all express trains from mainland India stop at Katra or Jammu, so you have to change trains to reach your final destinations in Kashmir.
Because the Kashmir Railway has been slow to complete, many people still take a train to Jammu and then continue to Srinagar by taxi or bus. That Jammu–Srinagar leg is costlier in the summer, when the capital shifts from Jammu to Srinagar, for both buses and taxis.
Buses and Other Public Transport
Private service buses run throughout Srinagar and connect the major tourist spots, making them a cheap way to get around if you are not in a hurry. For longer journeys, the Jammu & Kashmir State Road Transport Corporation (JKSRTC) operates fairly comfortable buses from Jammu; buses are described as safer than taxis but slower and a bit uncomfortable. Two-day buses also run between Srinagar and Leh, staying overnight in Kargil, and there are direct buses from Delhi as well.
From the airport, a minibus runs to the Tourist Reception Centre (TRC), which sits close to Dal Lake. It is the cheapest option, though the minibus is dirty and fly-infested.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis are widely available, and for longer trips they are the practical choice. Hiring a TATA Sumo SUV from Jammu, for example, fits up to nine people (or five comfortably plus luggage), and many travellers reduce costs by sharing the Sumo with others rather than taking an exclusive taxi. If you do share one, aim for a seat in the middle row: the front bucket seat is sometimes uncomfortably shared by two people, and the far back can be quite bumpy on the mountainous highway.
Within the city, the same rule applies as with rickshaws — settle the fare before you get in.
Walkability
Srinagar is not primarily a walking city for getting between neighbourhoods, but walking works well for specific areas. The east side of Dal Lake is slightly less direct by road, but traffic is low and the route gives lovely views over the lake — a good option on foot or by bicycle. Cycling is also viable for the fit: Srinagar is about 80 km from Sonamarg, a reasonable day ride out, with the return from Sonamarg being mostly downhill and easy.
Getting from the Airport into the City
Srinagar International Airport (SXR) handles international, domestic and seasonal Hajj pilgrimage charters to Jeddah. Flights operate from Delhi and Mumbai, with or without a stopover at Jammu, generally once or twice a day per airline. Winter flights can easily be cancelled because of weather.
Two practical points before you arrive: the airport requires a ticket for entrance, and when departing you must have a printed copy of your ticket in hand or you will not be able to enter. The airport is heavily patrolled, and you may see many soldiers or other armed security detachments. Allow roughly an hour to get from Srinagar to the airport, and note that security checks can cause traffic to bank up when several flights leave around the same time.
Once you land, your options into town are:
- Taxi — the most straightforward way into Srinagar, and also available for direct runs to Gulmarg.
- Minibus to the TRC — the cheapest option, dropping you at the Tourist Reception Centre, which is close to Dal Lake.
Tickets for flights are easy to purchase in the city. Foreigners are required to register upon arrival, either at the airport or at their hotel or houseboat.